Anyone have a problem with Dipstick popping up under hard acceleration??
06-01-2006, 11:04 AM
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Anyone have a problem with Dipstick popping up under hard acceleration?? After finishing my car, I noticed that my oil dipstick would pop up if I was shifting in the 6500 RPM range. I checked my emissions crap, and there weren't any issues. I contacted GM and made a claim. They sent the dealership a new dipstick with a new O-ring gasket. This has since cured the problem. I am glad I don't have too much crankcase pressure. That would've required more effort to fix. Please chime in if this has happend to you, or you have heard of it. Will I have this problem again if my O-ring on the dipstick wears out?? All opinions welcome. What corrective measure would you suggest if it starts happening again? 
06-01-2006, 12:29 PM
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I checked the pcv lines and no issue there. As I said in the post, I called GM and without question they sent me a new dipstick. They claim to have had several claims of dipstick O-rings not maintaining the dipsticks position due to failure of the O-ring. I had this fixed 4 wks ago and haven't had any issues. Plenty of high speed driving, and quite a few high rpm shifts. I appreciate you comment. I am glad it was the O-ring and not what you were talking about.
06-01-2006, 12:34 PM
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I would still be leary that it was excess crank pressure. Have you done a compression test recently? If nothing else, it will verify that the dip-stick assembly was defective.
Ben T.
Ben T.
06-01-2006, 12:55 PM
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Compression was checked @ D&D motorsports 10.9 to 11.1 to 1 was the compression range from the cylinders. I had 1 cylinder at 11.1 and 1 at 10.9 the rest were at 11.0 to 1
I am convinced it was just the O-ring being fatigued over the course of 6 years, and now dealing with all the extra heat, and higher compression. If I get any more issues with the dipstick popping out I'll have it looked at.
I am convinced it was just the O-ring being fatigued over the course of 6 years, and now dealing with all the extra heat, and higher compression. If I get any more issues with the dipstick popping out I'll have it looked at.
06-01-2006, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by allngn_c5
Compression was checked @ D&D motorsports 10.9 to 11.1 to 1 was the compression range from the cylinders. I had 1 cylinder at 11.1 and 1 at 10.9 the rest were at 11.0 to 1
I am convinced it was just the O-ring being fatigued over the course of 6 years, and now dealing with all the extra heat, and higher compression. If I get any more issues with the dipstick popping out I'll have it looked at.
I am convinced it was just the O-ring being fatigued over the course of 6 years, and now dealing with all the extra heat, and higher compression. If I get any more issues with the dipstick popping out I'll have it looked at.
Hmmm... apparently they used atmospheric pressure to convert the pressure readings to a ratio? I'm not really sure what they did. Can someone else chime in?
Usually a somewhat arbitrary number is collected and you're checking for relative deviation to that number- not looking for a set magnitude or ratio.
I'm not sure if the shop was attempting to put their information in simpleton's terms, but if I had to guess I would venture to say so, and I would do my own compression test again.
If I'm wrong someone educate me to the 'new' way.
Ben T.
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06-01-2006, 01:39 PM
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Usually youll get numbers ranging in the 180 to 220 psi area. The number you get is not so important as that theyre all fairly uniform. I dont think theres any way to convert to your calculated compression ratio which is usually 10:1 to 11:1 for a n/a motor.
06-01-2006, 01:43 PM
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06-01-2006, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by allngn_c5
I am going to go by the shop. Maybe they did use laymens terms for me. After reading this I want them to explain it further. Thanks for the insight.
Just kidding. I'd go over and be completely cool about it. Just tell them you're trying to learn. I'm sure they will be helpful. Good luck.
Ben T.
06-02-2006, 02:06 AM
#11
The compression ratio should be the is on all cylinders. That value assumes all the engine parts are in good condition. A compression test is done to verify whether or not top end engine parts are worn especially on a high mileage vehicle. Normal wear and tear doesn't change your compression ratio, but it can reduce compression. I didn't know there was such a thing as a compression ratio gauge. Where do you buy them? I guess I'll have to look on E Bay just like you have to do for all the hard to find items. I'll bet they're expensive.
