First time on MT DR's= 4 tenths improvement

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Old 07-20-2006, 07:57 AM
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Cool First time on MT DR's= 4 tenths improvement

In the 1/8th. Made 6 passes last night at Roxboro, best was a 8.609 @ 82.594 MPH. Previous best on street tires was a 8.98 @ 82.01 MPH. So almost 4 tenths improvment in the 1/8th and my 60 ft. time improved by about 2.5 tenths from a 2.223 to a 1.977. Not very good for MT DR's I know, but this was my first time ever running on a sticky tire and it will take some practice to master launching it. On the stock Goodyears the car would spin all the way through first gear and well into second even launching off idle, but these tires hook. I only spun them once, running 24 PSI air pressure. By the end of the night, I was down to 18 PSI and I think I will try 16 next time.

Launching between 2500 and 3000 RPM, the Mickeys hooked so good the car would just bog off the line- this is with the stock rear with stock 3.42 gears and the stock clutch. The stock clutch is holding like a champ, but the gears were getting louder by the end of the night. Very little wheelhop even with almost fully stock suspension (UMI STB and SFC's).

Best MPH was 83.481.
Old 07-20-2006, 10:22 AM
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Nice improvement.

MT ET Street Radial are very sensitive to the burnout. I followed the guidance posted by MT Tech Support, which specifies:

First pass of the day, a good smoky burnout.
Second and all subsequent passes that day, just spin the tires until they produce first smoke. MT calls that "Hazing" the tires.

Also be careful not to drop the MT Radials any lower than necessary. On a 02 Z06 I ran 20-22 psi. It's good to experiment but suggest running no lower psi than necessary. You want 3-5' of spin. Lower pressure will increase the tendency to bog, demanding a even higher launch rpm, which is harder on the clutch.

Ranger
Old 07-20-2006, 11:37 AM
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my other car was a 98 trans am m6 i had 50000 miles on the car when i put bfg. dr's on also bogged car down launched car at 4000 their went the stock clutch so be careful on the stock clutch want take too much.
Old 07-20-2006, 01:44 PM
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Thanks for the pointers, guys. I may have been doing too long of burnouts, and I am still experimenting with launch techniques. Any suggestions there?

I am trying to keep the stock rear and the stock clutch alive as long as possible, but I'm not going to baby it.

MT also recommends 14-16 PSI air pressure in these tires, but I see a lot of guys here running them with more pressure than that. Thoughts?

Can somebody walk me through the best way to do a burnout in a 6 speed car (without a line lock)?

Do you guys go through the water box with these tires, or do you just do a dry hop?

Do suspension parts like LCA's, relocation brackets, and torque arms help improve the launch significantly in these cars if you're NOT getting wheelhop to begin with?
Old 07-20-2006, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BADSS
...Can somebody walk me through the best way to do a burnout in a 6 speed car (without a line lock)?

Do you guys go through the water box with these tires, or do you just do a dry hop?...
Here you go Burnout on DRs without a line-lock.

I avoid driving THROUGH the water, if possible. Instead I drive around the water and back up until my rear tires pass through enough water that they are damp. I then pull forward into the damp area forward (toward the line) of waterbox.

Drop the clutch and feed the throttle and (if necessary), quickly lightly apply the brakes with your left foot. I don't always need the brakes but some folks find it helpful for keeping the rear end from walking sideways.

Bring the rpm to about 5000 until the tires smoke strongly (first pass of the day on MT Radials). At that point, back out of the throttle and (if applied) release the brake, and you'll roar forward. The tires are heated. I don't count seconds but just spin them strongly until they smoke hard.

Takes a little practice. But remember, if you botch the burn-out, DON'T retry it with dry tires. Doing that will likely glaze the clutch...or worse.

You can practice this in a parking lot after creating your own water box with 4 gallons of water.

Here is a vid of a 4 second burnout without a line lock. Burnout before 11.31 on DRs

Ranger

Last edited by Ranger; 07-20-2006 at 03:10 PM.
Old 07-20-2006, 02:32 PM
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Congrats! Ranger has hit the nail on burnout tehcnique.

Also don't drop them too low or you'll start to cup the tire, resulting in less contact patch than more. Lowest I've seen run in most regular applications (not counting the 8 and 7 second 1/4-mile cars) is 16 psi. I run 17-18 psi in mine.

Derek
Old 07-20-2006, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Here you go Burnout on DRs without a line-lock.

I avoid driving THROUGH the water, if possible. Instead I drive around the water and back up until my rear tires pass through enough water that they are damp. I then pull forward into the damp area forward (toward the line) of waterbox.

Drop the clutch and feed the throttle and (if necessary), quickly lightly apply the brakes with your left foot. I don't always need the brakes but some folks find it helpful for keeping the rear end from walking sideways.

Bring the rpm to about 5000 until the tires smoke strongly (first pass of the day on MT Radials). At that point, back out of the throttle and (if applied) release the brake, and you'll roar forward. The tires are heated. I don't count seconds but just spin them strongly until they smoke hard.

Takes a little practice. But remember, if you botch the burn-out, DON'T retry it with dry tires. Doing that will likely glaze the clutch...or worse.

You can practice this in a parking lot after creating your own water box with 4 gallons of water.

Here is a vid of a 4 second burnout without a line lock. Burnout before 11.31 on DRs

Ranger

Thanks, Ranger.

That's pretty close to what I was doing last night- except I don't think I held the burnout long enough on the first pass, and I don't think I took the RPM's up to 5K.

I'll do better next time.
Old 07-20-2006, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BADSS
Thanks, Ranger.

That's pretty close to what I was doing last night- except I don't think I held the burnout long enough on the first pass, and I don't think I took the RPM's up to 5K.

I'll do better next time.
Geez, I left out...do the burnout in 2d, not 1st. This will heat them faster.

Ranger
Old 07-20-2006, 07:59 PM
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im confused. your best time is an 8.6@82 mph? with a 1.9 60ft...... thats kinda slow in my book. esp if your at 330whp and 350 tq

i went 8.6@85 mph with just a cutout. with a 2.091

i have a 2001 a4 Ta convertible with about 60k miles on it.

now with my mods i went 8.4@86mph with a 2.019 60ft. my tq management kicked on at the end of first

the 8.6 was in about 65ish degree wether. the 8.4 was in about 97 degree heat about a month ago.

what elevaiton is your track?
Old 07-21-2006, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by GXPPOWER
im confused. your best time is an 8.6@82 mph? with a 1.9 60ft...... thats kinda slow in my book. esp if your at 330whp and 350 tq

i went 8.6@85 mph with just a cutout. with a 2.091

i have a 2001 a4 Ta convertible with about 60k miles on it.

now with my mods i went 8.4@86mph with a 2.019 60ft. my tq management kicked on at the end of first

the 8.6 was in about 65ish degree wether. the 8.4 was in about 97 degree heat about a month ago.

what elevaiton is your track?

I know my ET ain't all that great yet...but I'm a pretty inexperienced drag racer so hopefully they will get better with practice. The car is strong, it's the driver that's holding me back at this point, LOL.

I'm just posting my results, not bragging- and the point (to me, anyway) was how much improvement shown with the drag radials with the same lousy driver, and worse air....it was actually hotter and more humid than the night I ran the 8.98 on the stock Goodyear F1's.

I'm not sure about the elevation of the track, but I would say Roxboro is most likely pretty close to sea level...I'd have to check to be sure. BUT, the DA's have got to suck in North Carolina in July- it is very hot and very humid here this time of year....
Old 07-26-2006, 09:50 PM
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My best time is a 8.51@ 81mph in 90 Degree weather Its just an LT1 with Bolt Ons. This is on a street radial too.

MODS
Hooker Longtubs
Hooker Offroad Y w/no Cats to a Borla muffler
motive 373 gears
Vig 3200 Stall- Shift Kit
PCM Tuned
MSD 6A Box.
Magnacore 8.5 wires


Reaction...805
60ft........1.798
1/8.........8.511
MPH........81.25
Old 08-01-2006, 05:33 PM
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He's looking at DA's probably around 2500' or possibly a tad higher over in Roxboro in July. There's .2-.3 and 2-3 MPH vs a cool Fall day right there. BADSS, you need to head to the coast. The local track here is a whopping 10 feet above sea level. The DA is still bad in the Summer because of the nasty heat and humidity but at least the track is at a lower elevation. I'm just trying to get you to head over here one Friday. Better times will come with your car. Just keep hitting the track.
Old 08-01-2006, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Smokinstorm
He's looking at DA's probably around 2500' or possibly a tad higher over in Roxboro in July. There's .2-.3 and 2-3 MPH vs a cool Fall day right there. BADSS, you need to head to the coast. The local track here is a whopping 10 feet above sea level. The DA is still bad in the Summer because of the nasty heat and humidity but at least the track is at a lower elevation. I'm just trying to get you to head over here one Friday. Better times will come with your car. Just keep hitting the track.
Thanks for taking up for me, dude.

I almost wonder if there is any point in running in this heat- it's still 94 degrees and 57% humidity here at 7:25 for a heat index of 109.

I wanna come run at the coast sometime- I wonder what the altitude is at Roxboro?

I'm getting my 4.10's installed tomorrow at RPM- how many easy break-in miles do new gears really need? Opinions seem to vary.
Old 08-01-2006, 07:51 PM
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The only reason to run in the heat is so that you'll be more familiar with the car when good air gets back in here. No need to waste a negative DA air night practicing the basics of drag racing. That's the only reason I'm going to the track this Summer. Practice/test/tweak the combo. I'm also making a couple of changes and need to see how they affect the car. If something makes the car go quicker when it's 100 degrees outside, it'll make the same difference or more when it's 50 degrees outside. I'm taking a break right now from the track but only because I've got a crack in my front driver's side header tube. Gotta remove it and TIG weld it back up. If not for that, I'd be at the track every Friday night still. I'm still out practicing with the guy driving the car now even though I've been drag racing over 25 years and he's been at it even longer. No matter what, practice never hurts. Cliche??? Yep. But it's true.
Old 08-01-2006, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Smokinstorm
The only reason to run in the heat is so that you'll be more familiar with the car when good air gets back in here. No need to waste a negative DA air night practicing the basics of drag racing. That's the only reason I'm going to the track this Summer. Practice/test/tweak the combo. I'm also making a couple of changes and need to see how they affect the car. If something makes the car go quicker when it's 100 degrees outside, it'll make the same difference or more when it's 50 degrees outside. I'm taking a break right now from the track but only because I've got a crack in my front driver's side header tube. Gotta remove it and TIG weld it back up. If not for that, I'd be at the track every Friday night still. I'm still out practicing with the guy driving the car now even though I've been drag racing over 25 years and he's been at it even longer. No matter what, practice never hurts. Cliche??? Yep. But it's true.
Good point- and Lord knows, I need the practice.

I think I may want to get that SLP reverse logic TCS module- I can't believe I forgot to turn off the traction control last time at the track! Talk about embarrassing! I could not understand why the car refused to do a burnout, LOL!

After I figured out what happened, I kinda had to laugh. It actually made me feel better, because I was beginning to think that I REALLY SUCK after pulling a 2.5 and a 2.7 60 ft time on MT drag radials. Maybe there is hope for me after all.

It's going to take me a week or two to put the 500 break-in miles on the new gears, but as soon as I do I will be headed back to the track.



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