fouz65

thought i would post some of this. this is my one and only daily driver (aka, my work car). i started this project july 24 (bought motor set and started tearin up my 240).worked on it on the weekends. it is dirty as hell but in fairly good shape (does clean up and looks good i think). it will be drove atleast 4 days a week, every week (if i got to go to work i may as well have fun getting there and back ). so looks (paint and rims) will be last thing if they every happen. on with pics (kinda in random order).

heres the headers


stock camaro mounts packed with high temp chalking. seems to really stiffin em up.


how i cut the x-member. i stoped taking pics for awhile so didnt get one of it boxed and welded out.


how it sat in there. it sit alittle lower in the end.


the hood closed. it CLOSED!


moded clutch pedal. was a PITA.


with the rad and fan.


top veiw of fan. to get it in the front had to do alittle cutting. but didnt wanna cut all of it out. how it ended up.


pic of the pan and steering rack. about 1/2-3/4 of a inch space. aint as tight as it looks. but sitting low enough.


the tranny mount and back of headers. mount was made out of 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 angle iron and it also worked great for boxing out the x-member.


little pic of gauges in the pillar, my ebay steering wheel, shifter location, and moded shifter handle. motor came with a short throw shifter. so i moded the handle to my taste.


veiw of the steering shaft going thou the headers and alittle veiw of the motor mounts. we used the stock camaro mounts packed with high temp chalking, then made new u-brackets, then made the stock x-member wider for the bracket to sit on. then drilled holes for two 1/2" grade 8 bolts.


new throttle cable bracket. made from stuff laying around that i didnt use.


the PITA master cylinder in. about 4-6 hours right there.

the motor ended up about 1/2" more forward then planed, but it was the only way to clear everything. shifter (measured from center of the shifter output to center of 240 hole) is 1 and 1/2" forward. so i aint far off from other ppl. maybe that 1/2"




whats left to do. exhaust, drive shaft, wiring (which looks easy), fuel system, then new gauges in a home made dash cluster (yet to be made), battery in truck, etc..

price to date

motor, tran, ecu, wire, shaft, shifter 3800
volt, oil pressure, water temp, gauges 176.26
hsc oil pan package 355
hsc nissan master cylinder 79
hsc new ss clutch line 83.5
shiping 18.5
steering wheel and plate plus s/h 51.87
hsc headers plus shiping 896.63
hsc cooling package and shiping 667.58
cpu vats and rear o2 removel 125

total 6253.34

fuel will be around 600. exhaust, bout 100. alum drive shaft, guessin around 300-400 dunno really. camero came with a alum one but it looks to be like 1 1/2" to 2" to short. gauges will be the last big $$$. freakin speedos are high. end goal when done, $7500. then ofcourse other stuff will follow. like rear end, and then wider rims. was tryin to hit around 10k with rims, tires and paint (paint done myself). think im going to be alittle over thou.

and the only problem i really got is the sway bar. the car was lifted up when i put the motor in and i had about 1/2" to 3/4" gap between the bar and pan. but when the car had weight added and the car sat down that little sway bar moved and is right up on the pan. i dont think bending the sway bar out alittle is going to hurt it thou.

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

nice job, cant wait to see completed pics

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

nice dude

fouz65

thx. hopefully i get it up and running soon. im drivein a company truck atm and going from my 240 to a 2000 something ford pick-up sucks.

owen v8litew8

good luck bending the swaybar!
I had to relocate mine on my LS1rx7 (we all do) so I made adapter blocks to move it forward 1.0" and down 0.75". later on I made some spacers and used longer bolts to position the endlinks farther forward where the endlinks attached to the LCAs, so it would all be relocated forward together. Its all simple stuff but kinda sneaks up on you during such a big project.

man those headers look GREAT! wow.
did you mount the clutch master cylinder on the cabin side of the firewall?
damn that radiator is BEEFY... not much room left for an intake though.
looks hella good though man, you made some fast progress and I like the way you think... fast first, then paint.

fouz65

the clutch master is mounted the same style as stock. i had to drill 2 holes (one above the big hole and one below). i didnt have to make the big hole no bigger thou. i took the rubber boot off the master, put it in the car and then put the boot back on. it fits fine that way. the boot is to big to go in the hole.

as far as the headers go they look nice and fit good but there is one thing i would change. the driver side, second runner from the front, if the 45 degree angle was just a little higher up (alittle closer to the motor) you could place the motor back further. the headers is how i placed the motor. i did trim a little off the steering shaft u-joint to place the motor as far back as possible with the headers. but they still worked good. im sure with hinsons mount kit would fix it cause they lower the crossmember which changes the angle of the steering shaft. but i was tryin to cut cost the best i could on stuff i know i could do.

would bending the swar bar about a 1/2" mess stuff up? i know i could bend it. just a little heat and a 12 ton come-a-long would bend it or rip the front end off im sure. opinons?

Slo_240sx

iTrader: (17)

Looks good, your master setup is IDENTICAL to mine

Houston999

iTrader: (3)

I started mine last summer too , can we see more pictures? where did you buy the parts from?

nice work and good luck with the start up.

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

depending on what you're doing with the car lowering the subframe messes with the front suspension geometry. if i can get everything to fit in my S13 chassis then you surely have room to move around in your 14 . i moved the swaybar mount brackets forward until they were pretty much against the TC rod mounts and it just barely clears, but it does. i believe that heating the swaybar would cause performance issues with it as it would stress the metal in odd ways and it would lose some of it's spring effect. might even get brittle and break depending on the amount of heat and loads placed on it?

fouz65

headers, oil package, cooling package, clutch package, and fuel package all came from hinson. im lazy and didnt wanna have to try and find all the little pieces. plus, i have never done anything with a car as far as motor swaps or upgrades so alot of things i was unsure of. up till about 2 weeks before i went with a ls1 i knew nothing about a ls1, so.....i just knew it sounded like the right swap for me. light, powerfull, gasmileage, aftermarket support, and unlike the ka i had planed to turbo, it would of been alot of money to come close to the stock ls1. the way i look at it instead of having a high strung 4 cyl. the ls1 should do much more power easily. then you can turbo or super charge the ls1 later on and go past the power of almost any 4 cyl. in a few years i would like to see around 800rwhp. but thats nothing but talk now. i sure the stock ls1 will do me just fine thou

fouz65

well i test fired it tonight. ran it for about a 1 or 2 mins. things left to do. driveshaft, fuel line brackets, heater hose loop for the heater core output/input, a adapter for the brake booster vacuum line, hook up the rad fan power, hook up fuel pump power (battery is like 10" from the pump so i run a wire from there to the pump just to test the motor) and i need a battery tray. then just put back the dash and stuff. motor fired right up and oil pressure was just below 50psi. the only big mistake i made was when i tap the little plate above the oil filter for the autometer sender i got the angle wrong and so i tried to change the angle after and its leaking oil bad. but no big deal. but it does feel good knowing it does run. still need to put fuses in some places.

few questions for the other ls1 240 guys.
1.how much was your driveshaft from driveshaftshop.com?
2.where is the fuel pump power line up front? i tried the fuse box but nothing. may just run a new hot wire.
3. how did you hook up the stock tach? and if you could detail how you did it.
i know i had a few more questions but forgot. thank you in advance.

Chin180sx

iTrader: (1)

1. I think I paid 260 Shipped from Driveshaft Shop but this is wholesale. It is closer to 300 for retail. Only takes a day or so for them to build it.

2. Fuel Pump is in the F9 or F8 plug I dont remeber. I just ran a wire from the LS1 box to the back.

3. Stock Tach I used the Dakota Digital Tach adaptor which adjusts the signal

Slo_240sx

iTrader: (17)

Chin you did it the hard way. The LS1 feed to the FP relay is a B+. I simply took the control circuit of the stock relay and switch around the ground and feed (the stock trigger is a ground). So I grounded that wire and took the B+ side of the control circuit and hooked it to the LS1 PCM trigger for the FP relay. After all is said and done you have the stock wiring going back. Easier than it sounds.

fouz65

where is this B+ at? i checked the fuse box on the driver side by jumping a hot wire and listening to the pump and nothing happened. i couldn't find the fuel pump relay. chin, was your driveshaft alum? also, did any one have problem with thier blinkers/parking lights? mine dont work now. when i pulled the motor i just pulled everything that didnt unplug from the engine harnes. i do know my wipers aren't going to work. that pulg was part of the engine harnes as well. any one know what is up with the blinkers thou?

Chin180sx

iTrader: (1)

aahhh yes i forgot you have an S14...let me get back to you on getting those things to work. But to make this post worthwhile. I got the Steel Driveshaft. S13 doesn't use the engine harness to run stuff like the blinkers or wipers.

the.erinyes

iTrader: (3)

Nice job. If you plan to go fast, get the aluminum driveshaft. An aluminum driveshaft can spin faster than a steel one!

Chin180sx

iTrader: (1)

er, as long as they are both built the same they can spin the same amounts of revolutions. The problem with aluminum ones on the street is they flex more which can be a bad thing if your daily driving it. I stuck with the steel one for that reason.

fouz65

i was going to go alum but now im thinking im going to go with steel now. just cost vs gain. only a few pounds. i picked up a 95 j30 rear end today and im just going to get a local place to make me a shaft (as long as its cheaper vs the alum) the local place said they couldn't do alum on the 240. dunno what thats all about.

if one knows anything about them blinkers/parking lights throw the info my way. thanks.

would it be a bad idea to just hook my fuel pump to the ign and put a inline fuse on it? it will do the same as hooking it up to the ecu right? then no need for a relay. what about doing the same to the fan? i want it to run cool. 185-195 i guess. i just wanna make the motor last.

doesnt the ecu shut down the engine at a set temp? and does this work w/o hooking up more then the basic wireing to make it run. atm the only wires i have hooked up are the 5 ign wires the 1 orange one and the ground (just like the faq said). the only other ones im plan on use is for the speedo, tach and the diagnostic plug.

Chin180sx

iTrader: (1)

www.zero-yon.com look there in either the S14 conversion or just download the FSM for the S14 KA and then you should beable to figure out which wires to make your own custom mini harness for the things that arent working (even the wipers)

fouz65

link not work for me but il try to search for something.

can you give some more details on the converter for the tach and speedo? like where to get and which one to get and how to install maybe? thanks.

found their site. did you get it direct from them and is this the ones you got?