LS1 cam install - stainless steel tube to hold lifters up??
11-14-2006, 12:32 PM
#1
LS1 cam install - stainless steel tube to hold lifters up?? A friend of mine told me about this... any inputs?? Aparrently you can get some 1/2" tubing, and stick it through the oil holes in the block above the cam, to hold the lifters up while swapping the cam out.
Has anyone tried it? I've also heard about using pen magnents to keep the lifters from falling, but WTF will I do with 16 pen magnents when I'm done.
I'm hoping to start the cam install as soon as the cam gets here.
Has anyone tried it? I've also heard about using pen magnents to keep the lifters from falling, but WTF will I do with 16 pen magnents when I'm done.
I'm hoping to start the cam install as soon as the cam gets here.
11-14-2006, 12:37 PM
#2
TECH Addict
iTrader: (41)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germantown Hills IL
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
this would work the same as teh cam change tools you can buy for like 80 to 90 bucks from Thunder Raceing,,should work as long as the 1/2 tube size is "filling" the slots correctly,,,kudos to you for saving me money!
11-14-2006, 01:07 PM
#3
Originally Posted by Bad Blue WS6
this would work the same as teh cam change tools you can buy for like 80 to 90 bucks from Thunder Raceing,,should work as long as the 1/2 tube size is "filling" the slots correctly,,,kudos to you for saving me money!
11-14-2006, 01:18 PM
#4
On The Tree
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's DEFINATELY not 1/2" It's something in the neighborhood of 5/16-3/8. All it is is metal dowel rod you can pick-up at any hardware store. Just bend a 90 degree on one end for a handle, and take the other end to a bench grinder and bevel the end, works like a charm.
11-14-2006, 01:28 PM
#5
Launching!
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Newark ohio
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's 5/16
5/16 wood dowel rod will work as long as your careful not to snap it. Which you won't do unless your an idiot and moving it around and bending the crap outta the rod.
I tried a 5/16 metal rod but it would not fit, the tunnel in the block isn't a circle more of a D shape from what i could tell, you can see that the tool you buy from thunderracing isn't a circle either it's in a D shape. The 5/16 wood rod had alittle give to it and you can see an indent in it down the side. The metal rod had no give so it wouldn't go in.
You can take a grinder down the side of the metal rod but why bother. Just get the wood one and your set. Plus their like 50 cents or less worked perfect for me.
5/16 wood dowel rod will work as long as your careful not to snap it. Which you won't do unless your an idiot and moving it around and bending the crap outta the rod.
I tried a 5/16 metal rod but it would not fit, the tunnel in the block isn't a circle more of a D shape from what i could tell, you can see that the tool you buy from thunderracing isn't a circle either it's in a D shape. The 5/16 wood rod had alittle give to it and you can see an indent in it down the side. The metal rod had no give so it wouldn't go in.
You can take a grinder down the side of the metal rod but why bother. Just get the wood one and your set. Plus their like 50 cents or less worked perfect for me.
11-14-2006, 02:52 PM
#6
Originally Posted by 89tang
It's 5/16
5/16 wood dowel rod will work as long as your careful not to snap it. Which you won't do unless your an idiot and moving it around and bending the crap outta the rod.
I tried a 5/16 metal rod but it would not fit, the tunnel in the block isn't a circle more of a D shape from what i could tell, you can see that the tool you buy from thunderracing isn't a circle either it's in a D shape. The 5/16 wood rod had alittle give to it and you can see an indent in it down the side. The metal rod had no give so it wouldn't go in.
You can take a grinder down the side of the metal rod but why bother. Just get the wood one and your set. Plus their like 50 cents or less worked perfect for me.
5/16 wood dowel rod will work as long as your careful not to snap it. Which you won't do unless your an idiot and moving it around and bending the crap outta the rod.
I tried a 5/16 metal rod but it would not fit, the tunnel in the block isn't a circle more of a D shape from what i could tell, you can see that the tool you buy from thunderracing isn't a circle either it's in a D shape. The 5/16 wood rod had alittle give to it and you can see an indent in it down the side. The metal rod had no give so it wouldn't go in.
You can take a grinder down the side of the metal rod but why bother. Just get the wood one and your set. Plus their like 50 cents or less worked perfect for me.
11-14-2006, 06:19 PM
#7
TECH Addict
Two 24' rods, bend a about 3 -4" at the end for a handle. I got aluminum rods from Home Depot for a few bucks, ground one side to form the D shape, had to do a bit of filing to get them to fit snugly (the pass side is smaller than the driver's) and they worked great.
Trending Topics
11-14-2006, 06:49 PM
#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Miami, Fl. - Hurricane Highway
Posts: 2,458
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just finshed my cam install last night. For dowel rods i just went to home depot and got some 5/16" steel dowel rods (they were out of aluminum) and cut them down to 24". I didn't have to shave them at any point, but as i slid them in you can feel the inside isn't a circle. I just jerked the cam left and right a few times and slid them in with very little force. **But remember this form of holding up lifters is not perfect. One of the lifters actually slid a bit past the rod and prevented me from putting in my new cam. I needed a friend to use a pen magnet to pull the lifter back up, and out of the path of my new cam. So just be warned for those trying their first cam install, this is not a 100% sure thing.**
-Joel
-Joel
11-14-2006, 07:10 PM
#9
Launching!
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: southern ohio
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I tried the 5/16 rod when I changed my first cam too. If you want to make sure it will hold the lifters, take a push rod and push down on them before you pull the cam. I can tell you the steel rods did not hold a single lifter in my car. I spun the cam a couple of times. Crossed my fingers, held my breath and swapped out the cam. The lifter trays held the lifters in. It had nothing to do with the steel rods. Not saying it hasn't worked for some, but I can tell you they didn't help me. Maybe the wood dowel rods would work. Not sure. I didn't try that.
My suggestion would be to test how well the lifter trays are going to hold by using the push rods. If it feels like any of them are going to fall, buy the pen magnets.
Or, be prepared to pull your heads.... good luck!
My suggestion would be to test how well the lifter trays are going to hold by using the push rods. If it feels like any of them are going to fall, buy the pen magnets.
Or, be prepared to pull your heads.... good luck!
Last edited by 2002blackZ; 11-16-2006 at 01:31 PM.
11-16-2006, 02:14 PM
#11
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: cali
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by FCar2000TA
So... it's safe to say that the pan magnents are a more reliable method?
NO THE EASIEST WAY IS TO USE THE TOOL FROM THUNDER RACING, I GUESS YOU CAN USE THE WOOD DOWEL BUT BECAREFULL NOT TO BREAK IT. IM SAYING THIS CUSE I USE MAGNETS AND THE MAGNET FELL OF THE TIP WHERE IT WAS CONNECTED TO AND THE LIFTER FELL OFF
.. I'VE LEARNED NOT TO DO IT WITH MAGNETS EVER AGAIN THEN AGAIN PEOPLE WILL SAY OTHERWISE.
11-16-2006, 03:55 PM
#12
Launching!
Originally Posted by 2002blackZ
I tried the 5/16 rod when I changed my first cam too. If you want to make sure it will hold the lifters, take a push rod and push down on them before you pull the cam. I can tell you the steel rods did not hold a single lifter in my car. I spun the cam a couple of times. Crossed my fingers, held my breath and swapped out the cam. The lifter trays held the lifters in. It had nothing to do with the steel rods. Not saying it hasn't worked for some, but I can tell you they didn't help me. Maybe the wood dowel rods would work. Not sure. I didn't try that.
My suggestion would be to test how well the lifter trays are going to hold by using the push rods. If it feels like any of them are going to fall, buy the pen magnets.
Or, be prepared to pull your heads.... good luck!
My suggestion would be to test how well the lifter trays are going to hold by using the push rods. If it feels like any of them are going to fall, buy the pen magnets.
Or, be prepared to pull your heads.... good luck!
Bottom line, the rods are your "safety net"; during 90% of cam swaps, the lifters stay in the tray.
11-16-2006, 03:57 PM
#13
Launching!
Originally Posted by FCar2000TA
So... it's safe to say that the pan magnents are a more reliable method?
11-16-2006, 06:49 PM
#14
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Orange Park/ Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,075
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Dan_the_C5_Man
The point here is not that the rods / dowels "hold up" the lifters during a cam install; as stated earlier, if one of the lifters actually slid out of the tray, the rods do NOT hold them up to allow you to put the cam in. What they do is prevent the lifter from falling into the bottom of the motor, forcing you to pull the heads, or spend hours and hours trying to "fish" them out with a magnet.
Bottom line, the rods are your "safety net"; during 90% of cam swaps, the lifters stay in the tray.
Bottom line, the rods are your "safety net"; during 90% of cam swaps, the lifters stay in the tray.
BTW, the rods cost me $5. 16 pen magnets would cost $65+
11-16-2006, 08:15 PM
#15
Originally Posted by JBIRD02
He is exactly right. the dowels DO NOT hold up the lifters, thats not their job, they're just there in case one falls, you can grab it w/ a pen magnet rather than pull the heads. I used 5/16" metal dowels cut down to 22". I did have to grind down the one for the passenger side.
BTW, the rods cost me $5. 16 pen magnets would cost $65+
BTW, the rods cost me $5. 16 pen magnets would cost $65+
11-17-2006, 10:22 PM
#19
Closed ex-Sponsor Account
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: LONG ISLAND, NY; MADE IN THE USA
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by FCar2000TA
ahh ok. got it! I assume I can get the dowels at Home Depot?
