pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

I finally got around to stabbing the LS1 into my chevelle today. I am using the stock F-body pan and I made my own BRP mounts out of 3/8" steel. My chevelle originally came with a 283 and powerglide but most recently had a 350 in it.
I attempted ot stab it with the brp mounts arranged to set the motor back as much as possible. With the stock frame perches in their stock configuration the fit wasn't even close. After I switched sides with the frame perches and moved the BRP style mounts back to the rearward (closer the rear of the block) mount locations the fit is close but it still needs some more room to move up so that the centerlink doesn't hit when your turn lock to lock and the oilpan barely hits.

My question is what do can I do as far as getting some mounts to raise the engine up about a half inch or so. I believe the Gen I sbc mounts I am using are the short and wide version. I did a bit of searching at napa but haven't come up with what car to reference from to get the taller mounts. Any suggestions?

bczee

iTrader: (12)

With the BRP, Phill recommend on moving the Frame mounts to move the engine to the correct location that you need. To raise the engine up some.. you cay try using the Tall and Narrow frame mounts and Engine mounts..

I used them, but I had the short and wide frame mounts, I just narrowed them to what i needed.. in using a combination of the two differents engine and frame mounts. You can vary the height around 3/4". You can see the dimension at the EnergySuspension Web site Catalog. They market both engine mounts.

I also narrow my frame mount with an extra 1/2" to be able to jack the engine around some to get it centered where I needed it. Just used some spacer to take up the space.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Do I necessarily have to use the tall and narrow frame mounts to be able to use the tall and narrow engine mounts. Is there a difference in the width of the flange of the "mouth" of the engine mount? I have actually already swapped the frame mounts around and moved them up and I am extremely close to having it right but not quite there yet.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Yes, there is, the T/N mount is 1/4" narrower and 7/16" taller that the S/W mount.

Also if you using the Energysuspension mounts, they come with load plate, You don't need to use it, as the Adapter plate acts as the same function. You can also use the load plate(s) as spacer to move the engine up or down some.

http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/mt_tr1.html

350SS

iTrader: (38)

Are you checking the tierod clearance with the suspension compressed or not? On my '72, mine hit the pan when uncompresssed, but were fine once the car is on the ground.

edit...just reread your post, if it's the centerlink, it might not make a difference

C for Chevelle

i had a similar problem and wound up going w/ the tall and narrow style mounts to get my pan up and away from the center link and tie rod ends that connect to it,, clears great now

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

I am gonna try one last ditch effort by custom making my own adapter plate to see if that will get the engine where it needs to be. After that I will break down and buy the tall and narrow frame mounts and engine mounts then move my adapters I have now to the front engine mount holes on the block. I am still concerned as to how my 700r4 is gonna fit without modifying the trans tunnel however.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Here are some pics of the fitment so far. The engine needs to go back some more and possibly up as well to get the alternator to fit.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Your crossmember might be slightly different, but I mounted the motor mounts to the front spot on the block. My motor is only ~3/4" from the firewall. I also drilled new holes in the crossmember.







What accessories are you using? F-body or vette? If it's F-body also check the alternator to rag joint clearance.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I have my plates and mount as Stealth has. The location that a Stock F-Body uses the front 4 locations.. Most of the adpater plates (S&P and the BRP style uses the forward four locations.

Have you been trying use these back location all this time ? Is there a reason that you are using the back locations?

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

The front location wasn't even close to working. I have tried every way with the back location flipping the adapters around to mount the engine more forward etc. If you will look at my frame mounts vs. both of yours you will see that my frame mounts are the short and wide version which moves the engine either about 3 inches forward or backward. You guys have the tall and narrow frame mounts which positions the engine mounts relatively centered on the crossmember. It is becoming increasingly clear to me that the frame mounts I have are somewhat of a rare find.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

My mounts are actually the short and wide ones. Have you tried unbolting the mounts, bolting them to the motor and sitting it where it needs to be. Then I tacked them down w/ the welder, pulled the motor and drilled holes. I had to weld a couple old ones closed, because they were too close to the new ones.

I think the main difference in our mounts is the year. Maybe a set of the newer ones would work. Mine seem a little smaller. I can take more pics if you need them, but my motor is out right now.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

My frame mount is also the Short/Wide, but I narrowed them to use the Tall/Narrow engine mount.

Try getting some other year or engine option Frame mount or built your own (see JohnB site on how he did)

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

In the sense of making sure I understand what you guys are saying:

Here are the frame mounts your pictures appear to show you guys using-


Here are what my frame mounts look like-


Correct me if I am wrong here. I like the idea of bolting the frame mounts and all to the engine and just drilling new holes I will have to see if there is any way that would work.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

That looks correct.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Yeah.. those are only used on the 66-67... no sure if there is a differents between the SBC and BBC but I have seen different listings for each.

You can pickup a 68+ set of frame mounts, modify what you have or build your own.

I drilled/bolted mine in.. one trick of getting the nut and lock washer on the bolt in the x-member is to use some sealer or glue (let is set for a min or two) to hold the nut and washer together and lot of different wrenches, extentions and flex joins.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

I just bolted mine on for good. I used electrical tape around the socket to hold the washer. Get it started then pull the washer loose. Assembly manual calls for a lock washer on top and a regular washer on the bottom.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the tips for getting to the bolts that should come in handy. As a rule how much clearance between the pan and crossmember should be acceptable? I was thinking I need at least half an inch.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Depends on who you ask.. I asked Phill as BRP about his conversions, He said they have about 3/8"+ !
I wanted more.. so I used a different Oil pan (CTS-V) which gave me more room around the x-member and let me move away from the firewall a bit. But if you can get at lease a 3/8" to 1/2", that should be good, more is better.

john 67

i have s&p style adaptor plates energy suspension mounts and the shorter style frame mounts ( not 67 ) similar to my 70 .i have the tension plates in right now and the pan has about 1/2 inch clearence .i also have a s&p pan which is cut down a little in the front for better steering clearance but i have no body on the chasis so i dont know if anything is going to work .if you see my pics on my other post you might be able to see the clearence.my plates are actually in backwards cause i too was seeing how this is gonna fit?