I am working on collecting parts to go in my Dart Little M, 427 build. I already have a set of 6" Oliver rods with 2.100" journals. My plan is to build a solid shortblock that can handle my horsepower needs for the next several years. It will start out as a pumpgas, build with some nitrous. I am looking for a good deal on a quality crankshaft. I know Eagle & Scat have a decent 4340 crank (I have a 3.75" Eagle 4340 in my current 406), but I really want to upgrade to something like a Callies, Lunati, Crower, etc.
Let me know if you have a good 4" stroke, 350 main, 2.100" journal, 2-piece crankshaft for sale.
On the Callies line were you wanting their Compstar line or Dragonslayer/Magnum series crank's? There is a local circle track racer that has a new Compstar crank for sale and I know another guy that has a used Little M block w/Eagle rotating assembly for sale too.
__________________ 1997 Trans Am WS6
1995 Trans Am
2002 Duramax Diesel
I had a local engine builder recommend the Compstar crank, but I was kind of wanting to buy a domestic forging. Maybe it's just the patriotic side of me - I can't say that I have ever heard of an Eagle or Scat 4340 crank breaking. You certainly pay a lot more for the domestic forgings, but are they required for a 650 fwhp engine plus 250 hp nitrous? I know the 4340 Eagle 3.75" crandk and 6" h-beam rods in my 406 have held up well at my current 650 rwhp.
I am also about to crawfish on the 4" stroke. It would probably be a better idea to go with 3.875" stroke and my 6" rod length in order to get more compression height in the piston. I could always bore the block .030 to clean up the cylinders and get 421 CI...
I talked to the circle track racer with the Little M block & Eagle rotating assembly today and he said that he wanted $2500 for everything. The engine has been torn down for inspection and will remain that way until this weekend. He will be headed your way on the 19th to pick up his new stock car chassis and could help save you some shipping costs. The block has been disguised as a stock sbc 400 block, as the rules say no aftermarket blocks in the IMCA stock car class. He cut off the GM block casting number from a old blown up 400 and has epoxied it to the back of the Little M bellhousing. I am not sure if the dry sump accomadations are still functional as is.
I have not had a Scat or Compstar crank ever break on me, right now I am really liking the quality of the Compstar components. As for high end American made crankshafts I have only ordered one to date through Crankshaft Specialists in Memphis, TN (this company is not one that I will ever use again due to customer service). It was a billet 350 main crank with a 3.25" stroke and 1.888" rod journals. I was told that it will support up to 1750 HP. The crank looks to be a really nice peice of work, but I have yet to use it. I sold my 64' Chevy II here a couple of month's ago that it was going to go into for a twin turbo build. I have decided to build a purpose built chassis car instead, but I'm not sure if I am going to keep my all aluminum engine build for it. I have several pieces that may help your build, but I also have a freind that is wanting to buy the parts as well.
I also have a set of Ross 421 (4.155" bore) 18* flat top piston's for a 6" rod and a set of Total Seal Advanced Profileing Gapless Top Ring w/steel faced upper ring (not the more common ductile iron), these are the best rings that Total Seal makes.
__________________ 1997 Trans Am WS6
1995 Trans Am
2002 Duramax Diesel
WTB: SBC 4.00" stroke crankshaft with 350 mains 
