Correct, sir! My 240Z's transmission tunnel is just nowhere near large enough to take a GM bellhousing, even if you were willing to do some precision work with a sledgehammer.
I've been told by several people now that they are running WC transmissions behind built 350's in these cars, and they hold up just fine so long as the trans is good to begin with. The lighter weight puts a lot less strain on the drivetrain, so the WC can take a lot more than 300 ft/lbs in my application.
if i was you i would make it work with some good ole fabbing. i'd hate to do a project and have a weak link such as a t5. they can be ok but they really are turd in the area for strength. i'd wanna make a t56 fit
if i was you i would make it work with some good ole fabbing. i'd hate to do a project and have a weak link such as a t5. they can be ok but they really are turd in the area for strength. i'd wanna make a t56 fit
When you are paying for my build, I'll approve the mods!
A T56 fits fine with the required mods. The required mods cost thousands and limit clutch and flywheel options. I would rather spends thousands in different areas and not suffer the limited options.
When you are paying for my build, I'll approve the mods!
A T56 fits fine with the required mods. The required mods cost thousands and limit clutch and flywheel options. I would rather spends thousands in different areas and not suffer the limited options.
just rather not see you come back with this idea later because you went thru a few t5s. had a friend do this with an issue of 4l60e falling apart on him and finally he went to a t56.
i don't see how fabbing your own trans tunnel and shit costs thousands?
I would use the factory shortblock, with forged pistons, stock rods, stock crank. Use the factory 202 double hump heads, I forgot what cc they are, but you can deck them to increase the compression. Put 2.02 / 1.60 valves in them, and then throw on a performer or victor jr intake and a holley 750 street avenger carb...my buddy has that set up with a nice cam and it runs great...otherwise if you want to spend the money then buy some aluminum heads.
__________________ 1993 Z28 A4 Burgundy/Black hardtop, A few boltons
Quote:
Originally Posted by Busted Knuckles
Why are you anticipating high heat and using chrome rings? I haven't seen 'em used in anything other than circlejerker engine builds and understand they'll cause accelerated cylinder wall wear.
I managed to find a set of lightly used Edelbrock E-Tec 200 Vortec heads for $500, assembled, complete with roller rockers.
Slingshot, I guess I should have mentioned that I bought these aluminum heads. It was a total no-brainer. They came with dual valve springs and the 1.6:1 roller rockers. $500 for the whole kit.
i don't see how fabbing your own trans tunnel and shit costs thousands?
Been in a 240Z lately to see where the trans tunnel is, and what it would do to the whole car to widen it by 1"? Reaching behind your back to shift is also a no-go. Then there's the height, which would wreck the entire stock dash and console...
Your idea of "easy, just fab the tunnel" doesn't make sense financially, timewise, asthetically, or functionally. The real answer is to just buy the right shit for the conversion so it all works right. I ain't gonna do either, so I ain't using a T56.
The weight argument it stupid, compare a Warhawk LS motor to a all aluminum BBC, the weight difference is worth it to me with the kazillion more cubes.
Been in a 240Z lately to see where the trans tunnel is, and what it would do to the whole car to widen it by 1"? Reaching behind your back to shift is also a no-go. Then there's the height, which would wreck the entire stock dash and console...
Your idea of "easy, just fab the tunnel" doesn't make sense financially, timewise, asthetically, or functionally. The real answer is to just buy the right shit for the conversion so it all works right. I ain't gonna do either, so I ain't using a T56.
i have seen some people fab up some nice ass stuff. the guy who painted my car is doing a resto mod of a 69 charger with a whole viper set up including independent rear motor and trans and basically everything salvagable about the car. if you are trying to do something cheap. cheap and good just doesn't mix. if you have the brain power it can be done. if you don't wanna do your project right...why even waste the time. im just trying to help...no need to be a dick about it...
Not bashing on you black, sorry if it reads that way. All I am saying is, when a known solution exists and it works, it's usually easier and to go with that engineered solution rather than try to engineer a new one. The point of the build would go from the overall swap to a new way to put a T56 into an S30, and that is not the build I am working on.
To build a car well and on budget, it is best to establish a concept and goals, and stick to it. Every time an option comes along - and many will come along - you weigh the options against the build concept and goals. If you consistently choose the options that are in keeping with your build, you win.
Reinventing the wheel on SBC transmission swaps into Datsuns is not in my build concept. I am building a quality SBC swap into a good 240Z on a tight budget. Budget doesn't have to mean cheap, and there is a very wide spectrum between cheap and "I'll pay whatever, I want the best."
You should be able to achieve 400 hp in a small block very easily...just make sure those edelbrock heads have big valves in them in order to perform...some of edelbrocks stuff does not perform very well.
__________________ 1993 Z28 A4 Burgundy/Black hardtop, A few boltons
Quote:
Originally Posted by Busted Knuckles
Why are you anticipating high heat and using chrome rings? I haven't seen 'em used in anything other than circlejerker engine builds and understand they'll cause accelerated cylinder wall wear.
The weight argument it stupid, compare a Warhawk LS motor to a all aluminum BBC, the weight difference is worth it to me with the kazillion more cubes.
those are some pretty strong heads, flow just a bit more than a stock ls2 head.
those heads will support up to and above 500bhp n/a with the correct scr and dcr.
With the previously recommended cam specs (thanks Zone), Comp Cams' desktop dyno says 620 HP on my setup. I know that is silly overrated, so I'm very anxious to see what it will really put down.
The weight argument it stupid, compare a Warhawk LS motor to a all aluminum BBC, the weight difference is worth it to me with the kazillion more cubes.
With the previously recommended cam specs (thanks Zone), Comp Cams' desktop dyno says 620 HP on my setup. I know that is silly overrated, so I'm very anxious to see what it will really put down.
that would awesome if those programs were actually accurate.
I went with the Professional Products Crosswind (RPM Air Gap copy) aluminum intake, polished version for $200. It is very pretty. Bought my gaskets and flat top pistons; almost ready to give it to the shop.
I still need to select my hydraulic roller cam - getting lots of varied input. I have 1.6 roller rockers that I want to use; would that alter the cam recommendation you guys made?
I went with the Professional Products Crosswind (RPM Air Gap copy) aluminum intake, polished version for $200. It is very pretty. Bought my gaskets and flat top pistons; almost ready to give it to the shop.
I still need to select my hydraulic roller cam - getting lots of varied input. I have 1.6 roller rockers that I want to use; would that alter the cam recommendation you guys made?
230-240@.050 108-110 LC, You need to take your heads to your builder BEFORE you order a cam,reason being to check spring installed height/valve legnth ,all this will tell you how much lift you can run without making changes , keep in mind that your probably going to need heavier pressure springs on even a mild hyd. roller. you could special order a cam with the right lobe lift to use your 1.6 rockers and stay within the spring installed height limit, and go with that amount of lift.........Comp cams may be able to set this up as a 4-7 firing order swap also, i do not think that will add h/p at this motors level, but it should run smoother..............on the tranny thing, why not consider an automatic, 350 turbo, or in something that light a powerglide..........if your still running the stock rear, things will live alot longer
