BBC/SBC conversion how to
12-04-2006, 12:07 PM
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BBC/SBC conversion how to Well most of you know I've been working on my BBC project for a good while now. I figuered that since theres alot of questions to ask and be answered that I'd write a thread on how to do this conversion. I'll mostly deal with the engine, engine fitment, fuel delievery and wiring issues for this set up.
It goes without saying that you will absolutely need to upgrade the F-body drivetrain. That means a built trans TH-350, TH-400, 700R4, Powerglide and a stall matched to your cam specs and needs. Or of course a built manual with a good clutch.
I've tried to use the best products available and I've also looked at areas to save money. As long as it looks good, runs and moves I'm not in to the show side of it.
I'll go a head and list the thing you'll no longer need thats currently on your car:
PCM
WIRING HARNESS from engine bay.
GUAGE CLUSTER, you can use it but I think the new guage route is better.
HVAC, you can keep it, but you won't be able to get to spark plugs #6 & 8.
STOCK HOOD, maybe if you have a low intake but I doubt it. I figure atleast a cowl hood.
Things that you'll need to purchase before getting started:
Motor, oviously
K-member: BMR-Fabrication & Sphoon have BBC K-members (both sponsors here)
Carb
Electric Low Pressure Fuel Pump
Fuel Line
Fuel Inlet Line
Fuel Pressure Gauge (mounted under the hood.)
Hooker Headers 2455 or a custom made set.
Air Filter/Housing
Radiator, stock LT-1 or LS-1 can't handle a BBC,
if your doing a SBC swap then they will work.
Mini-Starter.
Starter Wrap. The headers are close and it'd be embrassing to have your starterseize up and be stranded somewhere.
Distrubor, Spark Plugs and Universal Wires
Spark Plug Wire Wrap, I ran mine unber headers and behind the engine to the dist.
Guages: atleast replace all the stock guages Speedo, Tach, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Volt, Fuel Level
MSD 6AL or better
I only recommend taking the engine out and putting the new engine it through the bottom of the car.
First thing to do is pull the engine and trans to get those out of the way.
Next go ahead and get rid of the wiring harness thats in the engine bay, it runs inside the car on the passenger side. Unplug it and tape off all unused connections.
Go ahead and take the windshield wipers, black plastic cowl off. Just undo the motor in the center of the car and set it back against the firewall.
Before putting the engine in the car you'll need to trim the cowl area, How much depends on your intake, distribitor and your own choice. If done right the distribitor can be in its normal location and also be pulled when it needs to be changed. You'll have to take the cap off first and then the dist.
Here's some photos of my cutting.
Check fitment of the K-member with your car before attaching the k-member to the motor.
With engine on the engine stand attack K-member to the engine. Nows the time to go ahead and put spark plugs, wires, wire sheild, starter, starter shield water pump, alternator,headers, pullies and power steering pump to the motor. Its better to do this on the engine stand than to try this in the car.
Now you can mount the a-arms and shock stuts. Now support the engine with an engine hoist or something of that manner. Go ahead and hook up flywheel or flexplate. Nest do clutch or torgue converter (which ever applies to your application) then hook trans up to motor. Now you can put some support under the back of the trans and a arms. Now you can hook up your trnas dipstick and oil cooler.
Next step you'll need some help. Place your whole assembly (motor with headers bolted on, k-member, a arms, trans) under the car. Get everything lined up and you can lower the car back down and bolt everything up. In the picture I have I didn't have my headers on because I was checking overall fitment. I raised the car back up and put my headers on.
Once you've gotten this far and everything is bolted up. Take a break and look at your car for a while. It'll never be the same. Its a BBC 4 gen now. Now for the next few weeks or month you'll get to do all the same details. That will depend on time and budget. But congratulations if you've made it to this step you well on your way to haveing a nice BBC Camaro
It goes without saying that you will absolutely need to upgrade the F-body drivetrain. That means a built trans TH-350, TH-400, 700R4, Powerglide and a stall matched to your cam specs and needs. Or of course a built manual with a good clutch.
I've tried to use the best products available and I've also looked at areas to save money. As long as it looks good, runs and moves I'm not in to the show side of it.
I'll go a head and list the thing you'll no longer need thats currently on your car:
PCM
WIRING HARNESS from engine bay.
GUAGE CLUSTER, you can use it but I think the new guage route is better.
HVAC, you can keep it, but you won't be able to get to spark plugs #6 & 8.
STOCK HOOD, maybe if you have a low intake but I doubt it. I figure atleast a cowl hood.
Things that you'll need to purchase before getting started:
Motor, oviously
K-member: BMR-Fabrication & Sphoon have BBC K-members (both sponsors here)
Carb
Electric Low Pressure Fuel Pump
Fuel Line
Fuel Inlet Line
Fuel Pressure Gauge (mounted under the hood.)
Hooker Headers 2455 or a custom made set.
Air Filter/Housing
Radiator, stock LT-1 or LS-1 can't handle a BBC,
if your doing a SBC swap then they will work.
Mini-Starter.
Starter Wrap. The headers are close and it'd be embrassing to have your starterseize up and be stranded somewhere.
Distrubor, Spark Plugs and Universal Wires
Spark Plug Wire Wrap, I ran mine unber headers and behind the engine to the dist.
Guages: atleast replace all the stock guages Speedo, Tach, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Volt, Fuel Level
MSD 6AL or better
I only recommend taking the engine out and putting the new engine it through the bottom of the car.
First thing to do is pull the engine and trans to get those out of the way.
Next go ahead and get rid of the wiring harness thats in the engine bay, it runs inside the car on the passenger side. Unplug it and tape off all unused connections.
Go ahead and take the windshield wipers, black plastic cowl off. Just undo the motor in the center of the car and set it back against the firewall.
Before putting the engine in the car you'll need to trim the cowl area, How much depends on your intake, distribitor and your own choice. If done right the distribitor can be in its normal location and also be pulled when it needs to be changed. You'll have to take the cap off first and then the dist.
Here's some photos of my cutting.
Check fitment of the K-member with your car before attaching the k-member to the motor.
With engine on the engine stand attack K-member to the engine. Nows the time to go ahead and put spark plugs, wires, wire sheild, starter, starter shield water pump, alternator,headers, pullies and power steering pump to the motor. Its better to do this on the engine stand than to try this in the car.
Now you can mount the a-arms and shock stuts. Now support the engine with an engine hoist or something of that manner. Go ahead and hook up flywheel or flexplate. Nest do clutch or torgue converter (which ever applies to your application) then hook trans up to motor. Now you can put some support under the back of the trans and a arms. Now you can hook up your trnas dipstick and oil cooler.
Next step you'll need some help. Place your whole assembly (motor with headers bolted on, k-member, a arms, trans) under the car. Get everything lined up and you can lower the car back down and bolt everything up. In the picture I have I didn't have my headers on because I was checking overall fitment. I raised the car back up and put my headers on.
Once you've gotten this far and everything is bolted up. Take a break and look at your car for a while. It'll never be the same. Its a BBC 4 gen now. Now for the next few weeks or month you'll get to do all the same details. That will depend on time and budget. But congratulations if you've made it to this step you well on your way to haveing a nice BBC Camaro
12-04-2006, 12:13 PM
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Here are some more photo's of differnent parts of my setup to give you some additional guidance.
I placed my fuel pump on the passenger side of the car. I didn't want my fuel line coming across the motor.
Heres how I set my pressure regulator up. This photo was taken from inside the car with the HVAC taken out.
And, heres how I ran the fuel line to the carb.
Fuel pump setup and line routes are your choice. But I wanted to keep everything on one side of the car. Instead of running the fuel line across my engine to get to the fuel inlet.
I placed my fuel pump on the passenger side of the car. I didn't want my fuel line coming across the motor.
Heres how I set my pressure regulator up. This photo was taken from inside the car with the HVAC taken out.
And, heres how I ran the fuel line to the carb.
Fuel pump setup and line routes are your choice. But I wanted to keep everything on one side of the car. Instead of running the fuel line across my engine to get to the fuel inlet.
12-04-2006, 12:21 PM
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Here are some clearance photos.
Firewall and dist. clearance
Firewall, trans, dist. clearance
Header/K-member clearance
Header/Frame clearance
HVAC plate/ Header clearance
Firewall and dist. clearance
Firewall, trans, dist. clearance
Header/K-member clearance
Header/Frame clearance
HVAC plate/ Header clearance
Last edited by cwaldt; 12-27-2006 at 09:52 AM.
12-04-2006, 12:27 PM
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The drivers side header will need to be modified to work around the steerinn shaft. I'm currently working on this task. From what I've found out so far it'd be best to just buy some 2" mandrel bends (J & U) so that you'll have some good tubing to work with. You'll have to reroute primaries 1 & 3 atleast. This can be a challenging task but it beats buying a custom set of headers. If you've got the money then by all means just buy a set custom made. But the Hooker Headers 2455's are only $150 plus the mods put them at about $200 uncoated. I should be done with this in the next few weeks and I'll upload some pictures then. But this is probably something that will change a little from car to car.
Disregard this step if your doing a SBC conversion. SBC should work with no problems.
Disregard this step if your doing a SBC conversion. SBC should work with no problems.
12-04-2006, 12:31 PM
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Good straight forward write up. It really isn't all that hard to put on in once you have the K-Member. One thing I didn't see you mention, what about trimming the firewall down where the heater box used to be to clear the headers? I'm trying to decide wether or not to cut the firewall or have a custom header made for the passenger side.
12-04-2006, 12:35 PM
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I couldn't see how much interference there would be if the HVAC was left in place. I do know that with the proper K-member that the Hooker Headers 2455 will fit with the HVAC still in place with a little massaging on the HVAC box. I didn't have any problems with the firewall after I went with the BMR Fabrication K-member though.
I'd go with the 2455's and just check for the fitment and massage what needed to be, with the HVAC still in there.
I'd go with the 2455's and just check for the fitment and massage what needed to be, with the HVAC still in there.
Last edited by cwaldt; 12-04-2006 at 02:20 PM.
12-04-2006, 02:16 PM
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I have the BMR K-Member and the 2455's and the #8 primary will be an issue if the firewall isn't clearanced down there. I don't have HVAC in mine either. Basically from the metal strip that the HVAC box mounts, to the mounting tab for the stock heat sheild has to be clearanced. I'll take some pics, I went ahead and cut the primary so I could fit it in there and see how much I would have to massage the firewall.
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12-04-2006, 02:20 PM
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Since you don't have the HVAC in there I'd put the HVAC delete plate in and then just use a hammer to make room instead of cutting on the headers. You won't be able to see it from the engine bay or from inside the car.
Last edited by cwaldt; 12-05-2006 at 01:52 PM.
12-08-2006, 03:29 PM
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Great write up, im glad somebody finally did this. Ill comment on a few things, the lt1 radiator wouldnt work with my sbc, so it may be a concern for some. Assuming the performer rpm is the same height on a bbc, that is the tallest you can go and still use the stock hood (but if youre going bbc, why not get a victor jr?). I used the performer rpm and trimmed some support from the bottom of the hood. I also left the plastic on the cowl in place and just trimmed around the filter. Not sure about the bbc's but i could retain my wipers with my sbc.
A few things i would advise anyone to do during their gen1 swap:
1. sump the tank and use an external pump, i didnt and i really regret it
2. Distributor...i used a mallory unilite which has an optical eye instead of points to wear out, i had to replace the optical piece and it took 5 min.
3. I had to lower my front sway bar 1/4" or so so that it wouldnt hit the dampner. I did this by drilling matching holes into a piece of thick steel and then getting longer bolts, cheap fix.
4. i used my stock gauges and added autometer water temp, vacuum, and air/fuel. If you need help with the stock gauges let me know.
5. rewiring the fuel pump relay is easy once you know what to do. Just wire it up so that the relay is hot in ignition, start, and run
6. I swapped the power steering pump from my v6 on the old school mounts and kept the rack, very easy
7. Check, double check, and recheck your wiring.
8. Take your time and be patient! There were so many times i wanted to light the entire car on fire but in the end its worth it.
A few things i would advise anyone to do during their gen1 swap:
1. sump the tank and use an external pump, i didnt and i really regret it
2. Distributor...i used a mallory unilite which has an optical eye instead of points to wear out, i had to replace the optical piece and it took 5 min.
3. I had to lower my front sway bar 1/4" or so so that it wouldnt hit the dampner. I did this by drilling matching holes into a piece of thick steel and then getting longer bolts, cheap fix.
4. i used my stock gauges and added autometer water temp, vacuum, and air/fuel. If you need help with the stock gauges let me know.
5. rewiring the fuel pump relay is easy once you know what to do. Just wire it up so that the relay is hot in ignition, start, and run
6. I swapped the power steering pump from my v6 on the old school mounts and kept the rack, very easy
7. Check, double check, and recheck your wiring.
8. Take your time and be patient! There were so many times i wanted to light the entire car on fire but in the end its worth it.
12-10-2006, 04:03 PM
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Chris is running an automatic so no clutch, but I'm running an LT1 T56 in mine. Power levels really determine the clutch you can use, mine is going to be a street twin. I don't knw the dimensions of a muncie trans so I don't know how it would line up in the trans tunnel and if you would have to cut a new hole in the floor for the shifter. Also you have to think about your driveshaft length.
12-15-2006, 06:39 AM
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I got my HVAC plate installed last night. There is alot of interference at the bottom of the plate and with primary # 8. I did a little bit of the hammer mod and everything worked out perfect.
Nobody will be able to see if because what I hammered on is under the dash and I'm putting my vacuum reserver canister on my HVAC plate so that'll hide it in the engine bay.
The only other option would be to reroute primary #8, but that just seems like too much extra work for me.
Nobody will be able to see if because what I hammered on is under the dash and I'm putting my vacuum reserver canister on my HVAC plate so that'll hide it in the engine bay.
The only other option would be to reroute primary #8, but that just seems like too much extra work for me.
12-23-2006, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by s.o.m.SS
that is bad ***, i am actually about to begin my sbc conversion in my 98. so you used the factory power steering pump from your 95?
12-27-2006, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by JoshW
cwaldt, What are you doing for an air cleaner (or is this a race only car?)?
Its a street/strip car. I haven't tackeled this issue yet. I could use a different intake and fit everything under my cowl hood. But, problem is I love this intake and don't want to change it. So I may just end up cutting the hood and having a nice air filter set-up sticking out.
12-27-2006, 09:47 AM
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Heres some pictures on the drivers side header. I had to redo the #1 primary. I bought a 2" mandrel J-bend and U-bend. I only ended up using the J-bend.
I did all the work with the motor and headers in the car. I didn't want to drop the motor/trans/k-member to do this. However, If I ever need to take the drivers side header off I will have to drop the motor.
What I did was bolted the headers up with 2 bolts and then made my marks at my cut points. I took the headers out and made both cuts. Then I put the headers back in. I unbolted both the bolts holding my rack and pinion in place and slid it over to where it was easy to mount the steering linkage. Once I had that bolted on, I bolted the rack and pinion back in place.
I started from the top and just worked my way back to where I had made the bottom cut. I wasn't exactly pleased with one connection but I don't think there will be any noticeable performance loss. I also had to lightly hammer on primaries # 2 & 4 to make everything fit. I think I've got a minimal amount of grinding on the steering linkage and I'll be done. All I've got now is to bolt everything down tight and to paint #1 primary and I'll be over this hurdle.
I'd say the difficulty on a scale of (1-10) it was about a 7. I can't weld so I had to have someone come by and do that for me. Other than that its not that difficult. I just know it was a little tricky using the wire welder and getting to those tight spots.
I did all the work with the motor and headers in the car. I didn't want to drop the motor/trans/k-member to do this. However, If I ever need to take the drivers side header off I will have to drop the motor.
What I did was bolted the headers up with 2 bolts and then made my marks at my cut points. I took the headers out and made both cuts. Then I put the headers back in. I unbolted both the bolts holding my rack and pinion in place and slid it over to where it was easy to mount the steering linkage. Once I had that bolted on, I bolted the rack and pinion back in place.
I started from the top and just worked my way back to where I had made the bottom cut. I wasn't exactly pleased with one connection but I don't think there will be any noticeable performance loss. I also had to lightly hammer on primaries # 2 & 4 to make everything fit. I think I've got a minimal amount of grinding on the steering linkage and I'll be done. All I've got now is to bolt everything down tight and to paint #1 primary and I'll be over this hurdle.
I'd say the difficulty on a scale of (1-10) it was about a 7. I can't weld so I had to have someone come by and do that for me. Other than that its not that difficult. I just know it was a little tricky using the wire welder and getting to those tight spots.
01-17-2007, 12:59 PM
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Hey guys, great write-up! I'm putting a 350 in a 96 v6 camaro. You've already answered alot of my questions but I have a few more. What headers shoud I use with the SB? And did you put a sump in the stock tank? If so, how?
01-17-2007, 01:08 PM
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You should be able to just use some LT-1 headers for your 350. I just put a fitting in the tank for now. When I get the rear changed out I may put a sump in there. But, for now I'm going to see how the fitting works.
01-17-2007, 01:24 PM
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OK, so any lt1 longtubes.
So I can just drill a hole in the stock tank (im assumin at the lowest and rearmost part) and install a fuel fitting? What about the stock pump up top? Just cap off the old lines?
Forgive me if these questions sound stupid, I'm actually building the car in my head before i Order all the parts, ha ha.
So I can just drill a hole in the stock tank (im assumin at the lowest and rearmost part) and install a fuel fitting? What about the stock pump up top? Just cap off the old lines?
Forgive me if these questions sound stupid, I'm actually building the car in my head before i Order all the parts, ha ha.
