My speakers just randomly stopped working, they worked 6 months ago before i got into my accident but now that my car is all fixed only my tweeters work, does anyone know how i can diagnose this issue?
You don't say what kind of car but I would guess a Firebird with a Monsoon system. The symptoms indicate that the Monsoon amp isn't working (the amp powers all speakers except the tweeters in a Firebird). First check the RADIO ACCY fuse in the dash fuse panel. Always use a fuse tester or replace with a known good fuse because a fuse can look fine even when blown. If the fuse is okay then you'll have to do some checking at the amp in the right quarter panel area (in front of the spare tire). It's possible it was unplugged during repair and not reconnected.
__________________ White 2000 Trans Am
usual bolt-ons and some appearance/convenience mods
Sorry, it's a 1999 trans am ws6, it's still plugged in, i unplugged it and plugged it back in but it still doesn't work....the fuse looks good but I'll replace it and see what happens
You should do some additional diagnostic tests before replacing anything. First, make sure the amp has power and ground. Use a test light or multimeter to check for power on the two orange wires at E11 and E12 in the amp connector. Then check for good ground at the two black wires in E8 and E9. The amp connector pinout diagram is in the Monsoon FAQ sticky.
If the amp should need to be replaced, there is no need to replace the speakers or the head unit. In fact, it's safe to assume that the HU is working since you have signal to all the tweeters and they are patched into each of the four output channels from the HU.
__________________ White 2000 Trans Am
usual bolt-ons and some appearance/convenience mods
before replacing anything. First, make sure the amp has power and ground. Use a test light
Never use a test light in a car with a BCM. NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER. In fact, I wouldn't use a test light on any car with a computer. You don't want to test the wrong wire at any point in the vehicle and have an airbag deployed in your face. I've seen it happen with test lights, it's very dangerous and very painful. You can also damage sensitive electronics. It's standard practice to use a DMM for all electronic circuit testing in newer cars. Multimeters have continuity testing as well, you don't need to use a test light.
12 volts give or take, depending on the health of your charging system. You will place one lead on the wire you are looking for voltage at, usually sliding the probe into the back side of the harness while it is still plugged into the amp. The other lead is placed at a suitable ground. Any bare metal will work, or on the barrel of the cig lighter is another convenient spot. To check for a good ground, measure the amount of voltage from pin E11 to pin E8 and E11 to pin E9, as well as E12 to pin E8, And E12 to pin E9. Then compare the readings with the drop from positive battery terminal to ground. they should be within a volt of each other, unless for some reason the monsoon amp operates on less than 12v. Honestly though, if only the tweeters are working, and you remove one of the speakers and it tests good (test with another audio signal or a 9v battery), the amp is bad.
Never use a test light in a car with a BCM. NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER. In fact, I wouldn't use a test light on any car with a computer. You don't want to test the wrong wire at any point in the vehicle and have an airbag deployed in your face. I've seen it happen with test lights, it's very dangerous and very painful. You can also damage sensitive electronics. It's standard practice to use a DMM for all electronic circuit testing in newer cars. Multimeters have continuity testing as well, you don't need to use a test light.
That may be one of the dumbest things I've seen on this forum in a long time. I would have found it really funny if you weren't so deadly serious.
I never recommend using a test light on sensitive circuits such as solid state electronics or the air bags. But a test light is much more convenient in many cases where the presence of power rather than the amount is the concern. Most electrical problems involve simple circuits such as lights, signals, horns, etc. and a test light is the quickest and easiest way to test for power.
Of course you don't just start poking wires indiscriminately - you test wires that you already know should have power. I think you are thinking more of situations where you're trying to find a wire that does something in particular (e.g. searching for an ignition controlled power wire under the dash). Installers who don't have the schematic for every vehicle are well advised to not use a test light to locate the wires they need. But that's a completely different situation from saying "test the light blue wire in the socket for flashing power when the turn signal is on". In this case, there is absolutely no danger of damaging anything by using a test light to test for constant power on the two orange wires at the amp connector.
It's a case of using the right tool for the job. Sometimes a test light is the right tool, sometimes it's not.
__________________ White 2000 Trans Am
usual bolt-ons and some appearance/convenience mods
That may be one of the dumbest things I've seen on this forum in a long time. I would have found it really funny if you weren't so deadly serious.
I never recommend using a test light on sensitive circuits such as solid state electronics or the air bags. But a test light is much more convenient in many cases where the presence of power rather than the amount is the concern. Most electrical problems involve simple circuits such as lights, signals, horns, etc. and a test light is the quickest and easiest way to test for power.
Of course you don't just start poking wires indiscriminately - you test wires that you already know should have power. I think you are thinking more of situations where you're trying to find a wire that does something in particular (e.g. searching for an ignition controlled power wire under the dash). Installers who don't have the schematic for every vehicle are well advised to not use a test light to locate the wires they need. But that's a completely different situation from saying "test the light blue wire in the socket for flashing power when the turn signal is on". In this case, there is absolutely no danger of damaging anything by using a test light to test for constant power on the two orange wires at the amp connector.
It's a case of using the right tool for the job. Sometimes a test light is the right tool, sometimes it's not.
I won't sleep right recommending somebody asking a question like OP fucking around the wrong harness with a test light. Just to be safe. If you've ever seen somebody like one of the trainees I had working with a test light blow an airbag into their face with a test light then you just don't use them any more. Kid got a broken nose. Do you work as an Autotech? You should see some of the dumb shit that people do and you learn not to take anybody's abilities on trust. Just trying to keep the OP from fucking up his car.
I won't sleep right recommending somebody asking a question like OP fucking around the wrong harness with a test light. Just to be safe. If you've ever seen somebody like one of the trainees I had working with a test light blow an airbag into their face with a test light then you just don't use them any more. Kid got a broken nose. Do you work as an Autotech? You should see some of the dumb shit that people do and you learn not to take anybody's abilities on trust. Just trying to keep the OP from fucking up his car.
I can understand that. And in an installer situation, working on multiple brands/models of cars without schematics, your point is quite valid. But checking specific wires in the audio amplifier plug will neither damage the unit nor blow the airbags. I never use a test light on a vehicle with which I am unfamilar but I use one all the time on my car and bike (I have all the schematics for both). I don't use a 1/2" wrench in place of a 12mm either - always the right tool for the job. My objection is to anyone who screams that test lights are evil - if they were, nobody would buy them or make them.
__________________ White 2000 Trans Am
usual bolt-ons and some appearance/convenience mods
Question about speakers..... 
