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Old 10-27-2009, 11:09 PM   #1
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Default Defroster switch...

Can you make the defroster for the rear hatch glass stay on longer? I don't know if something's wrong with it, but when I turn it on, I feel like it stays on for a minute and a 1/2 and then turns off (back glass isn't totally defrosted) and then I have to wait about 7-8 minutes before I can turn it back on. In this time frame that it won't turn back on, if I hit the rear defroster button, it just clicks, almost as if it's preventing itself from turning on to keep it from over heating or something. It's done this ever since I've had the car, but I wasn't the first owner so I'm not sure if this is normal or if there's an issue.

Thanks for any help.

Adam
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:04 AM   #2
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Just replace the relay in the fuse panel for the defroster with a standard 30 amp fuse. Its a very common problem easily fixed.

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Old 10-28-2009, 07:43 AM   #3
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Or you can replace the defroster relay to get the stock behavior. (When they go bad, they shut the circuit off prematurely.)
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:11 PM   #4
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Having the same issue, will try these out and see what I get.
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Old 10-28-2009, 09:51 PM   #5
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Or you can replace the defroster relay to get the stock behavior. (When they go bad, they shut the circuit off prematurely.)
Is this located under the dash on the driver's side?
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:51 PM   #6
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I think it is in with the HVAC Controls
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:53 PM   #7
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Replacing the circuit breaker (it's not a relay) in the dash fuse panel with a normal 30 amp fuse (or a new 30 amp circuit breaker if you want to spend the money) will fix the problem. The factory circuit breaker tends to overheat and break the circuit when it gets old. There is no need to replace any other parts.
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:21 PM   #8
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So just a regular 30 amp fuse will work as well? I know the original one is a circuit breaker. Mine has been crapping out lately after only about 30 seconds of being on and it gets VERY hot to the touch while the defroster is on.
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Old 10-29-2009, 06:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00 View Post
Replacing the circuit breaker (it's not a relay) in the dash fuse panel with a normal 30 amp fuse (or a new 30 amp circuit breaker if you want to spend the money) will fix the problem. The factory circuit breaker tends to overheat and break the circuit when it gets old. There is no need to replace any other parts.
Just pop a 30 amp fuse in there? If that's what's in there to begin with, won't this problem just come back?
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Old 10-29-2009, 07:05 PM   #10
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Well, went and put a 30 amp fuse in there and it works beautiful. Apparently with the circuit breaker it gets old and jsut allows it to cycle for like 30 seconds. It went for 5 minutes and then I just gave up waiting for it to turn off.
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:14 PM   #11
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BUMP!

would I have to take the HVAC panel off to get to that fuse? How difficult is that?
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:18 PM   #12
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sweet now i can fix mine wondering why this didnt work right
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
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BUMP!

would I have to take the HVAC panel off to get to that fuse? How difficult is that?
The fuse is in your driver side fuse panel. There is NO fuse/breaker in the HVAC controls.
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam2001WS6 View Post
Just pop a 30 amp fuse in there? If that's what's in there to begin with, won't this problem just come back?
No, the factory circuit breaker works by breaking the circuit when too much current flows through it. The advantage is that when it cools, it reconnects the circuit so you don't have to replace it like an ordinary fuse. The problem is that the circuit breakers tend to overheat under normal load as they get older so they break the circuit even though there is nothing wrong. You can put in a new circuit breaker or a fuse but a circuit breaker costs more and will wear out again eventually.

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BUMP!

would I have to take the HVAC panel off to get to that fuse? How difficult is that?
No, the circuit breaker is in the fuse panel on the left end of the dash. It has two blade pins just like an ATO/ATC plastic fuse so you can replace it with a fuse of the same rating (30 amps).
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Old 10-30-2009, 01:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00 View Post
No, the factory circuit breaker works by breaking the circuit when too much current flows through it. The advantage is that when it cools, it reconnects the circuit so you don't have to replace it like an ordinary fuse. The problem is that the circuit breakers tend to overheat under normal load as they get older so they break the circuit even though there is nothing wrong. You can put in a new circuit breaker or a fuse but a circuit breaker costs more and will wear out again eventually.
So long story short, replace the circuit breaker with a 30 amp fuse and be done with it...? I guess I didn't realize they fit into the same slots.
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Old 10-30-2009, 01:36 AM   #16
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Wrong info. Was told the wrong thing.
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:51 AM   #17
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Man I'm glad I'm not the only one having this retarded issue. I have been cussing this thing for the past 2yrs wondering why the hell it was kickin off so fast & wouldn't turn right back on if the window wasnt done yet.
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Old 10-30-2009, 09:26 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00 View Post
No, the factory circuit breaker works by breaking the circuit when too much current flows through it. The advantage is that when it cools, it reconnects the circuit so you don't have to replace it like an ordinary fuse. The problem is that the circuit breakers tend to overheat under normal load as they get older so they break the circuit even though there is nothing wrong. You can put in a new circuit breaker or a fuse but a circuit breaker costs more and will wear out again eventually.
I suppose that the defroster timer relay at the HVAC control panel is just purely a timer then? (I've had older GM cars where the timer relay would also overheat and cut the circut off.)
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:15 AM   #19
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Quote:
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I suppose that the defroster timer relay at the HVAC control panel is just purely a timer then? (I've had older GM cars where the timer relay would also overheat and cut the circut off.)
The defogger timer relay serves the dual function of routing high current based on a low current trigger (normal relay function) and limiting the time that the current flows (timer function). The defogger runs for about 10 minutes the first time it is activated and for 5 minute periods for each subsequent use until reset by cycling the ignition off. Replacing the circuit breaker with a fuse should have no effect on this timing if the timer relay is working properly. All the fuse does is prevent the circuit from shutting off prematurely because of circuit breaker overheating (a common problem).

BTW, as you mentioned, older cars had timer relays that were thermal like a thermostat - our cars have solid state electronic timer relays.
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Old 10-30-2009, 11:01 AM   #20
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And, in case nobody has noticed, when the circuit breaker overheats and the defogger isn't working the driver's power seat is dead also. It works again when the breaker cools down.

replace the breaker with a fuse, as mentioned above, and say goodbye to the problem.
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