Does anyone still sell the window slow up/down kits?
08-28-2010, 11:57 PM
#22
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the jump wire works GREAT
my window motor would roll up like an inch and then id have to wait 10min and now it rolls up faster than it ever has
EDIT**** YOU DONT HAVE TO REMOVE THE MOTOR, YOU CAN JUST USE A 1-2IN HOLE SAW TO GET TO WHERE THE TEST PORT IS, i took the motor out but you dont have to--WORKS FOR CAMAROS AND TRANSAMS
ALSO THIS FIX WORKS THE SAME FOR PASS. SIDE EXCEPT you have to hook to the blue wire
tools needed:
A drill and drillbit
electrical crimpers
wire cutters
(you will also need a rivet gun and maybe a holesaw for the door)
Materials needed:
A piece of 10 or 12g wire(roughly 6in long)
a loop connector
a male connector
a wire splice( not sure what its called but its the red connector in the pic)
3 long 5/32" rivets
and a screw that you can screw into the test port with
First, after you have pulled of the door panels you have to make 3 holes in your door to be able to access the rivits that hold the window motor to the window track, this can be done with a hole saw or in my case i used a round chisel and made a hole its your choice, after you've made the holes drill the rivits and pull out the motor
Next step, take the piece of wire and crip the loop connector on one end and the male spade connector on the other like this
Next take the loop end and screw the the screw with the loop end into the test port like this
After that take the wire splice and put it on the (brown wire driverside, blue for pass.) that goes to the window motor connector and plug the male spade connector into the wire splice and connect the window motor like this
And then just rivit the motor back in and make sure everything is connected the put your door panel back on and you good to go, Enjoy!
(also i replaced the circut breaker in the fuse panel for the windows with a 30amp fuse)
my window motor would roll up like an inch and then id have to wait 10min and now it rolls up faster than it ever hasEDIT**** YOU DONT HAVE TO REMOVE THE MOTOR, YOU CAN JUST USE A 1-2IN HOLE SAW TO GET TO WHERE THE TEST PORT IS, i took the motor out but you dont have to--WORKS FOR CAMAROS AND TRANSAMS
ALSO THIS FIX WORKS THE SAME FOR PASS. SIDE EXCEPT you have to hook to the blue wire
tools needed:
A drill and drillbit
electrical crimpers
wire cutters
(you will also need a rivet gun and maybe a holesaw for the door)
Materials needed:
A piece of 10 or 12g wire(roughly 6in long)
a loop connector
a male connector
a wire splice( not sure what its called but its the red connector in the pic)
3 long 5/32" rivets
and a screw that you can screw into the test port with
First, after you have pulled of the door panels you have to make 3 holes in your door to be able to access the rivits that hold the window motor to the window track, this can be done with a hole saw or in my case i used a round chisel and made a hole its your choice, after you've made the holes drill the rivits and pull out the motor
Next step, take the piece of wire and crip the loop connector on one end and the male spade connector on the other like this
Next take the loop end and screw the the screw with the loop end into the test port like this
After that take the wire splice and put it on the (brown wire driverside, blue for pass.) that goes to the window motor connector and plug the male spade connector into the wire splice and connect the window motor like this
And then just rivit the motor back in and make sure everything is connected the put your door panel back on and you good to go, Enjoy!
(also i replaced the circut breaker in the fuse panel for the windows with a 30amp fuse)
Last edited by N20addiction; 09-13-2010 at 09:23 AM.
08-29-2010, 09:34 AM
#24
Thanks for that! Can you get a video of your windows going up and down? That would be awesome!
Last night it was fairly cool and I took the car out. At first the windows didn't want to move down then the rest of the night I didn't have any issues. So I know they still have some life in them!
We are about to go through another series of 90+ days but when it is over I am doing the jumper on both regardless. I already have bolts in place so should I need to take them out will be easier. I was kind of hoping that I could get the screw (what size again?) into the test port with the wire with a 90 screwdriver or drill without needing to take the motors out.
If anyone can accomplish this without motor removal post up!
Last night it was fairly cool and I took the car out. At first the windows didn't want to move down then the rest of the night I didn't have any issues. So I know they still have some life in them!
We are about to go through another series of 90+ days but when it is over I am doing the jumper on both regardless. I already have bolts in place so should I need to take them out will be easier. I was kind of hoping that I could get the screw (what size again?) into the test port with the wire with a 90 screwdriver or drill without needing to take the motors out.
If anyone can accomplish this without motor removal post up!
09-10-2010, 09:19 AM
#29
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will this work for drivers side as well? cuz that one is pretty slow too, slow since i bought the car? and whats involved in doing this, do i have to trill out the power window motor?
09-13-2010, 04:29 PM
#32
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I also did a write up on bypassing the resistor strip if you want to look at that, though I believe the jumper is doing the same thing externally if you don't mind having extra wires in your door.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...tors-pics.html
Hope that helps!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...tors-pics.html
Hope that helps!
09-16-2010, 02:01 PM
#33
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Mine seems to be the opposite of everyone else. My passenger side window is faster than my drivers side. Always has been, but recently my drivers side has stopped working every once in a while. Doesn't happen too often, but sometimes it will just stop when I'm trying to roll it up. I'll have to wait a minute and fidget around with the switch to get it up again. Is my motor on its way out?
09-20-2010, 11:51 PM
#34
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Is this basically an DIY alternative to AutoTrix or w.e? Sorry tried to follow and answer my own question but i dont like much about the other except it goes directly to the battery..
11-14-2010, 03:34 PM
#35
I did this today to my passenger motor that was going out and it works great now. Makes my driver side look slow - I'm going to have to do it to the driver side as well now 
12-05-2011, 10:03 AM
#38
The reason that "jumper" works is because it bypasses the thermal switch inside the motor.... that is the weak point... You can take the *** end off the motor, carerfully and remove the little tan M&M looking thingy and replace it with some 8ga braided wire... no bypass or "kit" needed...
