torque arm what you think?

[dustinLS1/LT1]

i am wanting to buy a adjustable torque arm, i am on a very low budget. i found a edelbrock torque arm for $247, what do you think about them? and please i am open to all suggestions. thanks

[dustinLS1/LT1]

i also found a adjustable torque arm from UMIperformance for around 300, and a BMR for 329???????????? please help or tell me what you would do first

[Sam Strano]

I'd be happy to talk to you about the various types of Torque Arms. I sell Edelbrock, I sell UMI, SLP too. I've also used a few other types I don't sell, but can tell you how they act and work as well.

The Edelbrock arms are not nearly as beefy as the UMI or SLP arms are. And in fact the weakest part of a TA is the rear mount. The Edelbrocks use very thin mounts on the differential housing, the UMI, etc. use a much beefier mounting bracket. Also the Edelbrock arm cannot be used on aftermarket rears like 9" or 12-bolts should you ever switch.

My torque arm page is here: http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...=107&ModelID=2

You can look at pictures and read descriptions of the various arms we carry. I personally like UMI parts (and sell a lot of them). They work, and hold up. $299 for a UMI arm is way better than the same price (there or there abouts) for a notably less beefy Edelbrock arm. And remember, I sell both (though I can't sell it for $247... don't know who has that price as I'm competitive with the other super-stores on price which is usually the big test). None the less if $247 is a price that's good... but the part is still not nearly as tough as the other options.

Based on price and strength, I'd recommend the UMI version @ $299.

Does that help? Check out the photo's on my site. A picture is worth a thousand words.....

[dustinLS1/LT1]

thank you very much i will prolly go that route soon.

[dustinLS1/LT1]

Originally Posted by Sam Strano

I'd be happy to talk to you about the various types of Torque Arms. I sell Edelbrock, I sell UMI, SLP too. I've also used a few other types I don't sell, but can tell you how they act and work as well.

The Edelbrock arms are not nearly as beefy as the UMI or SLP arms are. And in fact the weakest part of a TA is the rear mount. The Edelbrocks use very thin mounts on the differential housing, the UMI, etc. use a much beefier mounting bracket. Also the Edelbrock arm cannot be used on aftermarket rears like 9" or 12-bolts should you ever switch.

My torque arm page is here: http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...=107&ModelID=2

You can look at pictures and read descriptions of the various arms we carry. I personally like UMI parts (and sell a lot of them). They work, and hold up. $299 for a UMI arm is way better than the same price (there or there abouts) for a notably less beefy Edelbrock arm. And remember, I sell both (though I can't sell it for $247... don't know who has that price as I'm competitive with the other super-stores on price which is usually the big test). None the less if $247 is a price that's good... but the part is still not nearly as tough as the other options.

Based on price and strength, I'd recommend the UMI version @ $299.

Does that help? Check out the photo's on my site. A picture is worth a thousand words.....

thanks, i have another ? i am running true duals on my car what subframe connecters will work?

[Sam Strano]

Can't answer that one so easily. SFC's run under the floor, not down the tranny tunnel where the stock exhaust runs. SFC's are meant to clear that style as it's the only "known". When folks start making duals, god knows how they might do it, and those that make SFC's can't account for every possible thing someone might do.

2 pt connectors run only along the side of the car. 3 pts. are stronger, but run in to the tunnel brace mounting location. If your pipes somehow run under the floor as opposed to down the tunnel I don't know a 3 pt. set would work. But for drag racing they are what you want as they are strongest.

Again, pictures are worth a thousand words.... SFC page and so on can be seen here: http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=14&ModelID=2 That way you can see what the various styles look like, and there are some that show the SFC's on the car so you can get an idea if your exhaust will clear.

[dustinLS1/LT1]

ok thank you sir

[Sam Strano]

Sure... anytime.

And if you have any questions, *please* don't hesitate to call me. They are a lot easier to answer by phone when you can actually have a conversation than they are by typing (more specific answers too).

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by dustinLS1/LT1

i am wanting to buy a adjustable torque arm, i am on a very low budget. i found a edelbrock torque arm for $247, what do you think about them? and please i am open to all suggestions. thanks

Just to give you another option. Our on car adjustable torque arm is one of the strongest and best built arms on the market It constructed from 1.25" x .120 wall dom steel tubing and features a 1/4" mounting plate. We feel that arm and front bushing design is stronger than the factory style front mounts used by some other companies. Our bar will clear all aftermarket exhaust systems and can be used in the factory location or used with a torque arm relocation crossmember. Its available in dom steel or chrome moly. We offer two types of weld in frame connectors,tubular and boxed. The tubular design is a good choice where ground clearance is a concern. These connectors tuck up next to the pinch weld on the rockers. The boxed frame connectors are a stronger design due to the boxed design resists torsional twisting better than a tubular design. If you have any questions on any of our products give us a call. Our tech dept is one of the best in the business and we are in the office mon-fri till 6pm est.

[Sam Strano]

1.25"x .120 wall is pretty much the standard for TA's. The UMI is made from the same tubing, and the mounting plates are not 1/4", but 3/8". Honestly, I won't knock the BMR arm because those style arems are all pretty much the same when you move beyond the Edelbrock part that is much less stout.

But on the SFC's, I have disagree a bit. While 2-pt boxed SFC's are beefier than 2-pt tubulars. A 3-pt connecter simply has more bracing, period. And if you are hell bent on having boxed, and the stiffest SFC you can, then we go SLP. But the tubular 3-pt UMI is generally *plenty*, they tuck better and are a little lighter too. None the less a 3-pt be design simply spreads loads out over a wider area. They are basically 2-pts with more bracing and another attachment point.

[dustinLS1/LT1]

thank you all for your input, i will think of everything you all said when i make my choice.

[BMR Tech]

The 3-point subframe design design is only effective as a reinforcement point for a floor mounted torque arm like what UMI sells. The only reason a 3 point is valid in that application is do to the type of loading the torque arm is exerting on the mounting point.

The main problem I see is the most obvious, the 3rd point is not connected to any kind of metal structure way out in the middle of the flimsy sheet metal floor pan. Just because the 3-point it adds an extra mounting point doesn't validate measurable gains in stiffness.

[Sam Strano]

That's your opinion Lee. But I'm sure those like SLP that make only 3-pts would disagree. And I respectfully disagree. I'm sure we'll have to agree to disagree.

When the car twists, the center of the unibody has to move as well. Much like 3 pt STB's triangulate towers to the cowl the 3-pts. triangulate the front and rear moutings to the tunnel brace mount.

I don't argue that most of the bracing is done by the outside and main tube, but there is definitely support from the legs on a 3-pt connector. All a matter of how much metal and how many attachment points folks want under the car.

Whether I believe a certain SFC's is "right" or not, I carry a variety. 2 *and* 3 points. Boxed *and* Tubular. Bolt-in *and* weld-in. That leaves the customer with his or her choice. He/she can call various vendors for more information and make a decision from there.

[dustinLS1/LT1]

you both are very helpful

[TJ]

the edelbrock is not a piece i would run.
ive seen the non adjustable one break, and also the adjustable one actually bend the threads in half, causing major damage to a nice driveshaft.

[the_merv]

I'm running a UMI Performance one, very good piece.

[impaled]

Originally Posted by dustinLS1/LT1

i am wanting to buy a adjustable torque arm, i am on a very low budget. i found a edelbrock torque arm for $247, what do you think about them? and please i am open to all suggestions. thanks

stay away from Edelbrock. IMHO they try to make too many different things and none are of significant quality.

i just put my BMR LCA's and PHB in and love them. i got the adjustable with the poly/rod end combo.

i would go BMR. i have had UMI before on another f-body and had no complaints, but i think i now prefer BMR. they seem a little bit beefier.

[USMC Devil Dog]

Full UMI here and I have recently ordered the 3 pts to replace my 2 pts to strengthen the center for my TM TQ arm. Rather be safe then sorry

[MrElectric03]

Prior to installing my 9" I had the BMR Non adjustable with the trans mount which had some adjustability. I really liked that setup and both peices were very strong.

[SMOKNSS]

BMR Adjustable T.A. here and PLEASED!