Good Morning! Finally got moved into our new house and had a garage to install my Koni 4/4's and Strano Springs. The install went very well, I did it by myself. The rear took about two hours and the front took about two hours as well, (a little over 1 hour for each side in the front).
I had never done suspension work before and this install was pretty simple. I was amazed at how simple our suspension works. I used the write up on ls1howto.com and it guided me perfectly. The main reason for posting this up is because I haven't seen someone post up a video before that shows highlights of a Shock/Spring install and I thought it would shed some light on the install for people who have never done something like this or ever thought about doing the install themselves. There are sooo many people on here asking how much it is to have a shop install springs and shocks because they are afraid they can't do it themselves.
You can do it! I'm a complete Noobie and I thought I rocked this install. Anywho, without further ado, the install...
P.S. I'd like to personally thank Sam Strano for great customer service. I'd also like to thank everyone on this site who have helped me along the way. God Bless...
__________________ 2000 WS.6 M6 (SLP Lid l Ported TB l LS6 Intake l Long Tube Headers l Magnaflow CB l Frost Tune l Koni 4/4's l Strano Springs) 13.3@110.9mph with a 2.2 60' before Headers, intake, and tune. Up next, Strano Sway Bars l M/T ET Streets l Monster Clutch l 75 Shot
Last edited by TheBlueKnight; 09-22-2009 at 10:28 PM..
It didn't show you using the rear spring isolator or hose mod. Did you put the rear springs right up against the metal on top of the springs? I would hate to hear what that sounds like or see what the metal to metal contact damages.
Don't ever work on your car when it is only supported by the floor jack, like you did with the fronts. I had a friend that learned the hard way. keyword "had". no joking.
It didn't show you using the rear spring isolator or hose mod. Did you put the rear springs right up against the metal on top of the springs? I would hate to hear what that sounds like or see what the metal to metal contact damages.
Don't ever work on your car when it is only supported by the floor jack, like you did with the fronts. I had a friend that learned the hard way. keyword "had". no joking.
I didn't do the hose mod which is what lowers the car more, right?. As for the rear spring isolator, I thought that was weird that the spring was just right against the metal like that, is there supposed to be a rubber piece there? I don't remember there being a rubber peice there when I took off the stock spring and I don't have any hardware left over? If so I need to throw the rear up again and install that rubber peice. I've only driven the car a mile since the install and I haven't heard any noises?
EDIT* Wait a minute, do you mean the top of the spring where it is against the body? Or the bottom that is against the rear axle? I thought you meant the bottom of the spring that touches the rear axle. The big rubber pieces that go on top of the spring are up there. They were stuck to the body up there and never came off. I was wondering if their should be a rubber piece seperating the spring from where it touches the axle though on the bottom?
As for only using the floor jack. I did use them for the rear and for the other front side. In the video I didn't use a jack stand for that one side and my wife came in and reminded me to use the jack stand so I did use it for the other side. You're right though, ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS!
__________________ 2000 WS.6 M6 (SLP Lid l Ported TB l LS6 Intake l Long Tube Headers l Magnaflow CB l Frost Tune l Koni 4/4's l Strano Springs) 13.3@110.9mph with a 2.2 60' before Headers, intake, and tune. Up next, Strano Sway Bars l M/T ET Streets l Monster Clutch l 75 Shot
Last edited by TheBlueKnight; 06-10-2009 at 12:05 PM..
yes, you should have the spring isolator, or at least the hose mod. since you have neither the hose mod will not lower it any more, and should lift it just a hair. But it will prevent the metal to metal contact. you need to go back and fix that.
There's no isolator on the bottom of the rear springs at the axle. The first time I had my rear springs out, the isolators were stuck up there too, which makes reinstallation a snap, lol.
Nice video, thanks for making it. I wasn't sure what all was involved in doing the fronts.
__________________ | '95 Z28 M6 - 355 LT1 - full weight with air conditioning | | GM 847 cam, Lingenfelter CAI, Pacesetter longtubes, dual exhaust, 4.10 gears, MadZ28 mail order tune | |12.68 @ 113mph, 2.0 60' |
yes, you should have the spring isolator, or at least the hose mod. since you have neither the hose mod will not lower it any more, and should lift it just a hair. But it will prevent the metal to metal contact. you need to go back and fix that.
BTW - you have a smart wife!
Thanks for the info man, you're awesome! I'm glad I posted this vid or I would have never done the heater hose mod!
*EDIT* Just talked to Sam, you don't need to put rubber between the bottom of the spring and where it contacts the rear axle. Stock, there isn't anything there, its just the spring against the axle. So thankfully I don't need to go back in, everything is good.
__________________ 2000 WS.6 M6 (SLP Lid l Ported TB l LS6 Intake l Long Tube Headers l Magnaflow CB l Frost Tune l Koni 4/4's l Strano Springs) 13.3@110.9mph with a 2.2 60' before Headers, intake, and tune. Up next, Strano Sway Bars l M/T ET Streets l Monster Clutch l 75 Shot
Last edited by TheBlueKnight; 06-10-2009 at 01:24 PM..
Great video... But a few details you might want to address (and I've not seen the whole thing yet).
To disconnect the upper ball joint, you don't want to use the hammer on the ball joint stud. Just hit the suspension upright on the side (where the ball joint comes through) and it'll pop apart, and not screw up the ball joint.
Also, the upper control arm can be removed (just slides off) when you get the shock out of the car. No need to keep it in place, it just slips over the upper mount and can be put back on right when you install the shock back in the car.
And finally (or maybe not, actually before). If you take the master completely off the booster (but don't loosen the lines) that one Torx head bolt is a lot easier to get to. What I do is take the 2 13mm nuts off the ABS pump so it, the hard lines, and the Master can swing a little out of the way and I can use a normal ratchet and T50 to get right to that one PITA Torx head.
Aside from that, that's a hell of a job on the video TheBlueKnight regarding the R&R of shocks and springs (there are Koni details like the adjustment and orientation of the adjuster) that are not covered here but I go over with my customers by phone. I can tell you that I'll be referring folks to this video as a guide to help them see how it works in addition to my detailed over the phone instructions.
Again, nice job....
__________________ Sam Strano SCCA National Champion (x6)
SCCA ProSolo Overall Champion-2009
SCCA ProSolo Class Champion (x5) Strano Performance Parts
814-849-3450 www.stranoparts.com
Thanks Guys, the install was actually quite fun! Only thing that happened was one of the Lugs stripped and broke off. I had previously taken it to GoodYear to get my brakes done and I'm guessing one of the techs put the lug on a bit by finger but it was a bit off and when he hit it with the air ratchet it went on but screwed up the threads. Hence I couldn't get it off and it broke. I took it back to Good year after I did the install and they threw it up on the lift and fixed it for free for me!
__________________ 2000 WS.6 M6 (SLP Lid l Ported TB l LS6 Intake l Long Tube Headers l Magnaflow CB l Frost Tune l Koni 4/4's l Strano Springs) 13.3@110.9mph with a 2.2 60' before Headers, intake, and tune. Up next, Strano Sway Bars l M/T ET Streets l Monster Clutch l 75 Shot
Good video! I thought it was gonna be a lot harder to do the fronts.
From what everyone said I thought it was gonna be this big nightmare too, but it was freakin cake man. Only thing that was kinda weird was after I wanted to take the spring compressor off of the springs it wouldn't come off by itself. I loosened the nut and the clamps were binding so I just backed the nut off about an inch, tapped it with a hammer and it would back off. Then I'd do that the same way on the other side and kept backing off each side alternately until it finally quite binding and released.
__________________ 2000 WS.6 M6 (SLP Lid l Ported TB l LS6 Intake l Long Tube Headers l Magnaflow CB l Frost Tune l Koni 4/4's l Strano Springs) 13.3@110.9mph with a 2.2 60' before Headers, intake, and tune. Up next, Strano Sway Bars l M/T ET Streets l Monster Clutch l 75 Shot
This looks like what you used. How did you like it?
Thats the exact one, $39.99 It was a good tool, I'd use it again
__________________ 2000 WS.6 M6 (SLP Lid l Ported TB l LS6 Intake l Long Tube Headers l Magnaflow CB l Frost Tune l Koni 4/4's l Strano Springs) 13.3@110.9mph with a 2.2 60' before Headers, intake, and tune. Up next, Strano Sway Bars l M/T ET Streets l Monster Clutch l 75 Shot
Great video I'll be using it in the future. I say make this a sticky.
__________________
MTI Clear Lid,Pacesetter LT's with ORY,LS6 intake,Janzter TB,
Strano springs,UMI suspension,TTII's 17x9.5/17x.11,WS9 hood Problems with your headlight?... READ MY STICKY!!
Thats the exact one, $39.99 It was a good tool, I'd use it again
Nice vid!
When i did my install last month, i took both fronts out, brought them to a local garage to take the springs off and put them on the Koni's.....$25.00.
Another little trick is to make sure you mark the location of your rear springs on the axle when removing them, may avoid different heights on rear end.
__________________ 2002 Vert. A4 SS LE, Don Goetz SFC's and Adj. PHB
Slowhawk Performance Tuned, Comp Cam 224/224 112LSA, Patriot extreme springs, Comp 7.425 hardened push rods,UD Pulley,160 Therm., Ported TB UMI Adj. LCA's and relocation brackets, UMI Adj. TA
Performabuilt LVL 2 w/ 3000 Billet stall, ARH w/catted Y-Pipe and GMMG CB, Strano sway bars, Koni Adj. shocks,AAM 3:73 Gears, T/A Cover
Koni/Strano Install Video 
*Update*
If so I need to throw the rear up again and install that rubber peice. I've only driven the car a mile since the install and I haven't heard any noises? 
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