Alrighty, so I'm taking a 4k mile trip this summer and I will be doing alot of highway/mountain/town driving. So, I'm looking for something that will handle better than stock, so I will be able to take some of these mountain corners pretty well (not looking to make my T/A like a Lotus), but at the same time, won't greatly effect my launches at the track. Right now I hook up perfect from a dead stop. What would be the best shock/spring combo that will perform better than stock in corners, but isn't entirely track-oriented? Still a DD for me. Plus I'm not looking to spend a TON of money.
Haha as much as I know about engines, I know absolutely NOTHING about suspension setups. What does that mean? I'm guessing it means the spring rate doesn't increase as the spring compresses?
Haha as much as I know about engines, I know absolutely NOTHING about suspension setups. What does that mean? I'm guessing it means the spring rate doesn't increase as the spring compresses?
just the opposite. they do increase as the spring compresses. with nonlinear rate springs youll get more sway than linear rate, but a better ride.
Don't lower at all. If your springs are giving you good weight transfer for launches, leave them alone. Call Sam Strano, you can get Bilstein HDs for less than $500. That's what you need. You'll get more comfort yet better control. You lose nothing. For the twisties, get Sam's front sway bar - flattens out the car in turns and makes it more predictable. You could probably get away with the whole set, which I think is around $379. You can do both of these mods without losing the good weight transfer you have now for launches but it will feel like an entirely different and better car.
For about $900, you can have the best, Konis. Truly will give you a new car, but you'll probably be dialing the rear shocks to full soft for 1/4 mile runs.
Either way, you'll wonder why you didn't do shocks first. Ask me how I know...
Location: Ocala, Fl = home Seoul, South Korea = stationed
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Koni shocks, Strano lowering springs, and Strano sway bars. I ahve had this setup for 2 years and have driven cross country twice and it has been AWESOME! did some mountain carving in Cali and it was amazing. Call Sam Strano, he will set you up all at once and you'll never replace or regret your parts.
__________________ 2002 Camaro Z28 A4 - UMI sfc phr lca ta, BMR stb, Strano sway bars and springs, Koni 4/4 shocks, p&p tb, Kooks headers, GMMG catback, built up 4L60E.
So I like the idea of soft springs, so it looks like I will do the shocks and anti-sway bars. If I could get some input on that, that'd be awesome. Seems to be the most price-efficient thing to do.
I have stranos, and I think they are fine. A softer substitute may be a set of Hotchkiss. That is what I was going to do before Strano springs came along. Shocks do more for comfort than springs if I am not mistaken. A good set of shocks will go along way. Spring (hehe... pun) for the konis if you can.
__________________ And not only that, but we also glory in tribulations, knowing that tribulation produces perseverance; and perseverance, character; and character, hope. -Romans 5:3-4
Why are people so quick to say springs as an answer for everything? If he says he's happy with his car hooking and wants something that "won't greatly effect" his launches, I would recommend Sam's sway bar's first.
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so far i think the best recommendation has been good shocks with stock springs.
after lowering my car, it hooked like garbage. added relocation brackets, still crappy. adjustable panhard bar to center the rear, adjustable lower control arms, better tires, still sort of sub par. have a torque arm on the way along with another set of tires to try to salvage some launch-ability. don't get me wrong, you CAN get a lowered car to hook well, but it's more money that you could spend elsewhere if you're more focused on launching than handling.
to be perfectly honest i think drag racing is kind of lame, so i'm not too upset about my lack of launching capability. it handles soooo much better it's more than worth the sacrifice.
another thing people are sort of overlooking is what swaybars will do to the launch. they'll make a huuuuge difference in cornering, but a big front bar(which is what you want for cornering) is far from beneficial for launching. there's a reason people run no front swaybar at all for the track. i've had 30, 32, and 35mm bars on my car. IMO both the 30 and 32 were too small, but the 35 made my bleh launches a little worse. handling improvement was definitely worth it though. if you match it with a good sized rear bar(i went 21) it's not terrible, but just keep in mind that it can potentially effect your launch.
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2000 trans am A4|3.23's|ssra|lid|ported tb|hooker lt's|ory|magnaflow catback|tune
35/21mm swaybars|bilsteins|hypercoils|adjustable phb|adjustable lca's|lca rb's|sfc's|tq arm 340rwhp - 355rwtq uncorrected
Why are people so quick to say springs as an answer for everything? If he says he's happy with his car hooking and wants something that "won't greatly effect" his launches, I would recommend Sam's sway bar's first.
Cause that is what his question was about.
if someone asks which shocks/springs will give me better handling and you respond sway bars, you may be helping, but you aren't answering the question. That being said, you are probably right. Sway bars do make a world of a difference.
__________________ And not only that, but we also glory in tribulations, knowing that tribulation produces perseverance; and perseverance, character; and character, hope. -Romans 5:3-4
Of springs, shocks and bars, which I consider the "big 3" of suspension, shocks and bars are the biggest bang for the buck without trade-off. Springs more certainly matter so please don't think I'm saying they don't.
Stock the biggest issue the car has is with horrible damping, which makes the car be all over the place, ride poorly, and generally feel soft because it will never settle down. A good set of swaybars kills a ton of body roll, and basically gives you wheel rate (sort of like spring rate), but only when you require it--when turning. Because of this they don't effect ride in a negative way because you haven't upped the wheel rate at all times, or cut working travel.
Springs do up the wheel rate at all times, and lessen the amount of working travel. The lower you go, the less travel you have and the more rate you need. This is where the trade-offs are. Ride quality comes from a good amount of travel, and matching spring rate and good damping. Screw any of those 3 things up and the ride will not be so hot. Neither will the handling because the two are related to a large degree.
Personally, unless I was hell bent on lowering the car, I'd recommend shocks with good control, and a set of swaybars before springs. But if you do want the car lowered, that's a-okay too as long as folks understand how things work. Most don't and just want to slap springs for the look.
__________________ Sam Strano SCCA National Champion (x6)
SCCA ProSolo Overall Champion-2009
SCCA ProSolo Class Champion (x5) Strano Performance Parts
814-849-3450 www.stranoparts.com
Of springs, shocks and bars, which I consider the "big 3" of suspension, shocks and bars are the biggest bang for the buck without trade-off. Springs more certainly matter so please don't think I'm saying they don't.
Stock the biggest issue the car has is with horrible damping, which makes the car be all over the place, ride poorly, and generally feel soft because it will never settle down. A good set of swaybars kills a ton of body roll, and basically gives you wheel rate (sort of like spring rate), but only when you require it--when turning. Because of this they don't effect ride in a negative way because you haven't upped the wheel rate at all times, or cut working travel.
Springs do up the wheel rate at all times, and lessen the amount of working travel. The lower you go, the less travel you have and the more rate you need. This is where the trade-offs are. Ride quality comes from a good amount of travel, and matching spring rate and good damping. Screw any of those 3 things up and the ride will not be so hot. Neither will the handling because the two are related to a large degree.
Personally, unless I was hell bent on lowering the car, I'd recommend shocks with good control, and a set of swaybars before springs. But if you do want the car lowered, that's a-okay too as long as folks understand how things work. Most don't and just want to slap springs for the look.
That was an awesome lesson! Haha, so what would you suggest on shocks? I like the idea of the adjustables (IE The shocks I picked out on the first post) but I noticed your handling package 2 (http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...ID=0&ModelID=8) and that had the SLP Bilstein shocks. I liked the idea of covering everything in one payment, but how much would I be trading if I opted for those adjustable gas shocks?
All you need to do is add them both to the cart, and you can pay for them together. Both the AGX's and Hollow bar set have free shipping, so the total would be $828.99 to your door (until the free shipping ends which is in a few weeks). The HP kits are kits. If I start mixing and matching it's not longer a kit.
AGX's offer adjustment, but aren't built as well as Bilstein's. But you can't tune a Bilstein. If you want both quality and tuning options--get Koni's. Sorry, but it's true.
__________________ Sam Strano SCCA National Champion (x6)
SCCA ProSolo Overall Champion-2009
SCCA ProSolo Class Champion (x5) Strano Performance Parts
814-849-3450 www.stranoparts.com
All you need to do is add them both to the cart, and you can pay for them together. Both the AGX's and Hollow bar set have free shipping, so the total would be $828.99 to your door (until the free shipping ends which is in a few weeks). The HP kits are kits. If I start mixing and matching it's not longer a kit.
AGX's offer adjustment, but aren't built as well as Bilstein's. But you can't tune a Bilstein. If you want both quality and tuning options--get Koni's. Sorry, but it's true.
That's good to know! I would rather spend money once. I will just go with the bars and Bilsteins. Would you suggest doing the LCAs or TA while I'm at it? I will probably do weld-in SFCs at the same time.
That's good to know! I would rather spend money once. I will just go with the bars and Bilsteins. Would you suggest doing the LCAs or TA while I'm at it? I will probably do weld-in SFCs at the same time.
I would suggest you don't throw the kitchen sink at it. Parts do jobs, if the job needs done then use the part.
Do you need LCA's or a TA right now? Having any sort of wheelhop issue? In not, then I'd say hold off until you see what the shocks, bars and SFC's do (you'll be surprised how much the car will change for the better).
Weld-in SFC's, I have SLP and UMI's. I also have a few of what I call CSP kits (chassis stiffening packages) that have UMI SFC's and STB's together for a few bucks off. Here's the link to my chassis page for things like SFC's and STB's. The UMI stuff is available in red or black--your choice. http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=22&ModelID=7
__________________ Sam Strano SCCA National Champion (x6)
SCCA ProSolo Overall Champion-2009
SCCA ProSolo Class Champion (x5) Strano Performance Parts
814-849-3450 www.stranoparts.com
SLP vs. UMI, who would you suggest for weld-in SFCs? They all look GENERALLY the same, but I couldn't tell the difference unless I saw them side-by-side. 3 point or 2 point? Haha sorry for bombarding you with questions, but I greatly appreciate the advice. But you are correct, wheel-hop is totally absent at this point in time, so I will hold off. I am probably gonna get that diff cover though, not only do I love the look, but because I'm brilliant, I bent the lip of my diff cover when I was jacking it up carelessly. :/ Fun.
UMI. They tuck a lot better and are coated (SLP weld in's aren't at all). 3-points are just that much stiffer than 2-pts and whenever folks want the car as stiff as they can, then 3's it is. But 2's save you some bucks (both in the cost of parts and shipping).
Something better than stock? 
