I used a dremel and several cut-off wheels on the first one, and a hacksaw on the second one. I wish I would have used a hacksaw on the first one, it took forever using the dremel!
If you use a hacksaw start with a new blade in a good hacksaw, and clamp the mount in a vise for the best results.
A air or electric die grinder (not a dremel)with a reinforced cut-off would still be a better choice.
__________________ 99 NBM Camaro Z28, M6, pro 5.0, Fluidampr UD pulley, slp lid & bellow, Meziere wp, BBK intake, "Brownie" ported 85mm TB, Catch-can, TWM shift knob, Shorty headers,R.T. Y-pipe, Magnaflow bullet , LOTs of suspension mods! PM 200amp alt.,"Big 3", Optima YT., 18"NBM SSR's, EPS cam coming soon! Always, a work in progress.
I have an electric die grinder, but I see it superheating the rubber and making a big mess (while also being hard to get a straight, even cut).
I'm also considering selling these Bilsteins I have and getting the front Edelbrock IAS coilover setup. I'm seeing them for $252ish from Jegs. That's per side correct? So $500ish to get the front on Edelbrocks? I'm thinking this route or going bags. Since I'm not going super low (2" max drop) and gaining back a significant amount of suspension travel back I'm not really sure which direction to go with.
I browsed through the thread and I know the IASs mount upside down. Is your bumpstop on the lower side too, and how does the upper side mount to the upper shock mount? You had a big washer in at first and switched to only a small washer, or no washer at all?
I've read this post a couple times and it seems like a great plan. I read somewhere that JasonWW was going to elaborate on doing this mod with Ground Control coilovers. I haven't seen that yet. Maybe it's on a different post? I did see one from John_D. on frrax, but I'd like to have more input.
By the way, does anyone have any extra Koni top hats?
__________________ Mark F
'99 Trans Am WS6 6-speed black convertible
'69 Z28 silver/black DZ302 4-speed SOLD
There really isn't much difference with the koni/ground control combo. I already did mine (I've since swapped to air springs). The one neat thing you can do is enlarge the hole on the GC aluminum upper spring perch and mount it under the tophat, but above the nut. It pushes the spring down an inch or more which is no big deal to compensate for since the red threaded sleeves are so long. The advantage is super easy access to the rebound adjustor on the tophat. Then the tophat just slides into the shortened upper mount.
The koni tophat is kinda tapered already so you don't have to add any washers for the shock to pivot back and forth as the suspension moves.
I happen to have a koni out right now. I'll try and take some pics.
Wow! You're on "top" of these things, aren't you. That's an interesting idea. I like how I wouldn't have to worry about using a washer or spacer on top of the GC top perch after cutting the stock upper spring perch.
Will that aluminum GC top perch hold up when using it differently than it's intended design?
I am really curious if Ground Control or Koni ever see these forums or comment on these ideas.
After thinking some more about it, wouldn't putting the aluminum GC top perch below the Koni tophat reduce the shock travel and be back where I started?
__________________ Mark F
'99 Trans Am WS6 6-speed black convertible
'69 Z28 silver/black DZ302 4-speed SOLD
I like how I wouldn't have to worry about using a washer or spacer on top of the GC top perch after cutting the stock upper spring perch.
Really? Adding a small diameter washer is super easy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by markyf
Will that aluminum GC top perch hold up when using it differently than it's intended design?
Yes, it's actually stronger this way. You don't have to do this extra part if you don't want to. I forgot to mention that it does require cutting some material off the tophat. Like so:
This is how it would look:
In fact, Koni makes a shock with a similar setup:
I never cut a larger hole in mine to do this because I knew I planned to sell them once I went to air suspension.
Quote:
Originally Posted by markyf
After thinking some more about it, wouldn't putting the aluminum GC top perch below the Koni tophat reduce the shock travel and be back where I started?
Not really. The thickness of the aluminum is about 1/8". So that reduces the shock travel 1/8", but you can compensate by leaving out the 1/8 spacer (white piece). So your back to the same exact shock travel.
I'm also considering selling these Bilsteins I have and getting the front Edelbrock IAS coilover setup. I'm seeing them for $252ish from Jegs. That's per side correct?
Yes
Quote:
Originally Posted by josh99ta
I browsed through the thread and I know the IASs mount upside down. Is your bumpstop on the lower side too, and how does the upper side mount to the upper shock mount?
I hope this answers your question.
Quote:
Originally Posted by josh99ta
You had a big washer in at first and switched to only a small washer, or no washer at all?
The stock upper shock mount allows for shock tilting. When you cut the mount in one big slice, it loses the ability to tilt.
If you look at the top of the Koni tophat as well as the Edelbrock shock, you'll notice they have a little "bump" built in. This acts just like a small diameter washer and allows these shocks to tilt. That's the only reason you don't need to add a little washer to these 2 shocks.
I'd love to match the Edelbrock shock to the Aero Sport Airbag, but there's just no reasonable way to do it. If you don't need on the fly height adjustment, I'd go with the edelbrock or "Ground Control plus good shock" setup. Air suspension is way more complicated and expensive.
JasonWW, Yeah, I know I've got to shorten the threaded rod on top. Now I see that you also cut down the bottom of the tophat so that the GC aluminum pc doesn't reduce the travel too much.
I think I'll go the small washer route with the standard tophat configuration.
__________________ Mark F
'99 Trans Am WS6 6-speed black convertible
'69 Z28 silver/black DZ302 4-speed SOLD
Now I see that you also cut down the bottom of the tophat so that the GC aluminum pc doesn't reduce the travel too much.
No, I actually ground down the diameter of the tophat so that the red GC sleeve will slide over the shock. Some people grind them and some people remove the tophat from the shock. You have to get the sleeve onto the shock somehow!