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11-15-2008, 07:07 PM
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#1 | | TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Narnia
Posts: 1,409
| Best drill bit to drill my exhaust manifolds Well, I decided to keep my stock exhaust manifolds and get a off road Y. I still don't know which one, MAC or DynoMax. Either way, I broke every stud on the driver's side manifold, the other one came out real well.
So, I ground down the studs with a cut off wheel and made some nice pilot holes. But, I still need a good quality drill bit to drill through the studs so I can use bolts.
I need a real sharp bit, this is in a real tough place to drill.
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11-15-2008, 07:15 PM
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#2 | | 12 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: jacksonville, nc
Posts: 522
| use a bit made for steel use a slower drill speed(speed creates heat dulls bit) and use a little bit of oil on it.
__________________ 02 T/A vert with a big hood |
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11-15-2008, 07:30 PM
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#3 | | Staging Lane
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 65
| if you have a torch or anything heat it up and use a hamer and punch and you should be able to drive them out. it might be easier than drilling. cause like mustangbrkr02 said you need to run the drill slow to let it cut and not dull the bit so fast. either way good luck |
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11-15-2008, 07:46 PM
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#4 | | TECH Resident
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 778
| If you are really good with a torch you can burn them out without messing up the hole or threads.
__________________  99 SS M6
LTs | ORY | Borla catback | Centerforce dual friction | Aluminum flywheel | Lid | 3.42 346 rwhp / 361 lb ft |
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11-15-2008, 07:55 PM
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#5 | | TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Narnia
Posts: 1,409
| ^ Ha, yeah. . . It's a bit passed that.
Now I just need a good qiality bit.
I am thinking cobalt, maybe? It ate my carbine masenry bit up with the quickness. 
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11-15-2008, 08:02 PM
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#6 | | TECH Resident
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 778
| No its not past that at all. Put the tip of the torch right in the center of the bolt. Heat it up till the bolt is cherry red. Pull the trigger and if should blow most of it out. Then it will be much much easier to drill the bolt out.
__________________  99 SS M6
LTs | ORY | Borla catback | Centerforce dual friction | Aluminum flywheel | Lid | 3.42 346 rwhp / 361 lb ft |
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11-15-2008, 08:10 PM
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#7 | | TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Narnia
Posts: 1,409
| Uh, no. . .
I have no torch, no welder. . . But a few quality high speed drills.
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11-15-2008, 09:50 PM
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#8 | | TECH Apprentice
Join Date: May 2004 Location: house near beach
Posts: 354
| Use a Cobalt bit,some light cutting oil, slow speed on the drill not pushing too hard.Take your time. Never a masonry bit on anything but concrete. $.02 |
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11-15-2008, 09:56 PM
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#9 | | 12 Second Club
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: camp pendleton
Posts: 1,198
| cobalt bit+1
__________________  12.2@110 CMS tuned
Lts,vig3600,cutout,lid,Ory,Ls6 intake. www.socalmuscle.net |
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11-16-2008, 07:31 AM
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#10 | | 12 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: jacksonville, nc
Posts: 522
| torch would be a bad idea used that way if you get drip on the tip and send that flame the other way you won't need to worry about a broken stud. A cobalt bit would do good but like i said slow speed and some oil and it should cut fine.
__________________ 02 T/A vert with a big hood |
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11-16-2008, 09:40 AM
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#11 | | TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Port Saint Lucie,Florida
Posts: 595
| Take them to a Machine shop so they get done properly and less of a problem for you.If not i would use a titanium bit.I would go w/ the mac off-road y-pipe it knocked 3tenth off the 1/4 in a 98 Z-28 i had.
__________________ Bone stock Pewter 2002 SS |
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11-16-2008, 10:46 AM
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#12 | | TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2008 Location: Yonkers, NY
Posts: 561
| carbide
__________________ 94' Z28 - 150k miles, T-tops, C5 brakes, K&N CAI, OTVC taylor 8mm wires, Hurst Billet Shifter, Ram HD Clutch, comp cams 918 Beehives & 1.6 Magnums, Mac Mids w/ !CAT 3" custom magnaflow, BMR antisway bars, LS1 DS |
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11-16-2008, 01:08 PM
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#13 | | Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 9,028
| Cobalt bits will chew through the stud just fine,
you have to watch the quality on carbide and
"titanium" (nitride) bits as these often are a
"dumb homeowner hoax" (soft steel except for
the coating or tip, but it says titanium so you'll
buy it). But cobalt bits are hard all the way
through. Which means you can sharpen them
again, too.
I'd pick up a 1/8" for pilot as well as the root
diameter (if replacing studs or reusing the tapped
hole) or outer diameter (nut & bolt plan).
I've never had problems with cobalt bits other
than occasionally snapping one in deep holes
(just make sure you pull out occasionally & keep
the swarf from loading the flutes entirely).
__________________ 2002 SS convertible SLP Blackwing lid, 85mm MAF, 85mm Professional Products intake & TB, SLP CME, Jet-Hot LTs/ORY, McCord cutout, Fuddle 3500/2.0, GM truck pan, '98 flexplate, 3.42s, T-2R, MAC cover, welded tubes, Hotchkiss PHR, springs; BMR bolt-in LCA brackets, K-member; UMI TA, boxed stock 1LE LCAs, SLP Bilstein / Gabriel air shocks (F/R); Strano 35/22 sway bars, 224/224 116 cam, 160F 'stat, HPTuners 12.6@112MPH |
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11-17-2008, 10:33 PM
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#14 | | TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Narnia
Posts: 1,409
| Thank you all for the advise, minus the torch idea.
I used a cobalt bit for the main holes, and just hardned jobber bits for the pilot holes. I kind of did it in a stepped process. I did a small pilot hole, then a larger one and so on.
It was tough, relly due to the fact I was laying on my back trying to apply pressure to the drill.
Mac pipe it is. . . . . .
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11-25-2008, 04:55 PM
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#15 | | On The Tree
Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 151
| Craftsmans Professional Cobalt. |
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