Did my own floor over a 3 day period shifting toys around alot as you'll see. Cost a total of about $120 start to finish including the little flakes for decoration and a double shot of clear and the muratic (how ever its spelled) acid for prior etching.
final looks great man...great job
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Those pics look really good. Now just time to clean up the mess that was in there. It looks like you used the U-Coat it correct. I am wanting to get this for my dad as a fathers day gift. I know he would like it.
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I always considered doing this in my garage but have been intimidated by the prep work. And from my understanding, it's the lack of prep work that can kill you in the long run.
i did u-coat-it in my garage. It came out nice, but the prep work was a bitch, since i have a 30 year old house and the garage floor has oil stains, spilled paint, etc.
if you house is pretty new, the prep work wont be bad. basically its:
-sweep and vacuum the floor at least twice
-scrub the floor with degreaser to get up any oil
-scrub the floor with muratic acid to etch the floor
-apply base coat
-apply 2nd coat
-apply decorative flakes (optional)
-apply clear coat (this is what makes it chemical resistant)
-apply aluminum oxide filings (optional, to make it skid resistant, however this can make mopping a pain, cuz it will shred up your mop)
the 3 paint steps took about 1 hr each, but it has to dry over night, so thats 3 days. the prep steps i spent an entire weekend on, cuz i'd rather waste some time doing excessive prep work, than have it start to peel
u-coat-it was much more expensive than the stuff available at hardware stores (like $600 to do my 2+ car garage, with juuuuust enough left over to do my back porch ). I had the 'do it once, do it right' attitude, and while i cant prove that its better than the stuff you can get at hardware stores, overall, i'm very happy with it. 2+ years so far and no peeling. the only problems i've encountered are:
-its chemical RESISTANT, not invincible... as long as you wipe up spills right away, its fine (by 'right away' i mean within a couple hours). I had some antifreeze trapped under a rhino ramp for like a month while i was working on my project car, and it stained the floor.
-its not scratch resistant. you can drop stuff on it no prob, but sharp metal objects will scratch it... like dont drag your jack across the floor, only roll it forwards and backwards. if you need to turn the jack, pick up the front and turn it.
u-coat-it was much more expensive than the stuff available at hardware stores (like $600 to do my 2+ car garage, with juuuuust enough left over to do my back porch ). I had the 'do it once, do it right' attitude, and while i cant prove that its better than the stuff you can get at hardware stores, overall, i'm very happy with it.
I didn't realize it was that spendy... I 'm not a cheap ass but I gotta think the Home Depot route is in my future.
The deciding factor for what product to use is hot tire pick up. My house garage is more of a workshop than a parking garage. I am lucky enough to keep my car safely in the neighbor's garage. I used Do-it Best (made by Shermann Williams) Polyurathane Porch and floor paint in my garage and basement. I have had no isssues. I just swept, mopped and etched (all with a de-humidfier in the the room for the basement.) I Put it down three coats thick and that was it. It holds up to a Great Dane and Rottwieler claws, and general shop work just fine. Grinding, sanding, spills, jacks whatever. The only thing it won't take it hot tires. It is not a big deal to let my SS or K-5 sit before I pull them in to work on them so I have no complaints there. Best part is I got it for $19.99 a gallon. I got about 150 sf out of a gallon going 3 coats deep.
The coating I used was part# 773229. It is made by Sherwin Williams not Shermann sorry. It retails for 27.99 a gallon at doitbest.com. I got it for 19.99 a gallon on sale at my local Do-It Best hardware store. It can be matched to any latex paint color. It says not for use in garages for the sake of hot tire pick up. Like I said not an issue so very happy with it.
Edit: It sticks to it self. I gouged it pretty good moving my workbench...it sticks to it self so tit ouches up and goes on easy and blends itself in.
Last edited by BOONEY7750; 06-14-2009 at 05:54 AM..
Reason: forgot to mention
In theory you could clear over the sticker. I would think you would have to use products with the same formula to make sure they stick together right. Also polyurathane(sp) clear coat yellows in comparison to white. In other words you couldn't tell it would yellow in colored form but clear on a sticker with white and red writting for example would eventually look yellowish on top of the white.
I did it in my shop as well. Seems to be a great product so far. I have had ZERO issues and I have had numerous chemicals on the floor. No heat pickup here either.
The coating I used was part# 773229. It is made by Sherwin Williams not Shermann sorry. It retails for 27.99 a gallon at doitbest.com. I got it for 19.99 a gallon on sale at my local Do-It Best hardware store. It can be matched to any latex paint color. It says not for use in garages for the sake of hot tire pick up. Like I said not an issue so very happy with it.
Edit: It sticks to it self. I gouged it pretty good moving my workbench...it sticks to it self so tit ouches up and goes on easy and blends itself in.
pretty much came to a idea that im going with the sherwin williams also i hear its very durable from a couple people ive talked to about it
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We tried using some off brand on the floors of my fire department, and there are spots where the tires of all our trucks sit now. Maybe better prep would have helped, I didn't do any of the work, but it looks really good when it stays on the concrete!
I just moved back into my garage last nite. I live in central iowa and we've had alot of rain here lately. I used the lowes quik-crete and it looks great. i have a 3 car garage and i put down 2 coats of the epoxy and 2 coats of the clear. I took my time and made sure the floor was spotless before i put the etching/bonding down. the humidity plays a huge part in the time it takes to complete it. I'm glad its done and it looks good. The only down side is if your shoes are wet or the floor is wet, it's slick. so watch your step. The extra clear coat probably had something to do with that but i didn't know.
Just did my aunt and uncles garage this past week. The prep work was a bitch of course. Took me about two hours to do all of the prep work. Make sure you clean everything good otherwise you'll be doing it every two years or so or the shit will seep through. Took me about 2 hours to do by myself. The garage even had a 10+ year old oil stain that's never gonna come up! So just did my best to get as much as I could of it up. I would go ahead and say if that's a case just do two or three coats and it'll be fine. But all in all it came out really good. The garage is old so it had a lot of mini craters in the cement and shit like that so that was my only thing that I wished they fixed first.
). I had the 'do it once, do it right' attitude, and while i cant prove that its better than the stuff you can get at hardware stores, overall, i'm very happy with it. 2+ years so far and no peeling. the only problems i've encountered are:
