.035 flux core is for thicker metal and can get plenty of penetration on 1/4". its a huge pita to weld thinner stuff wth it. theres no big issue wth flux core besides the fact tht its usually messy.
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Originally Posted by President George W. Bush
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Since you reverse the polarity from normal MIG you get more penetration/heat into the weld, which makes it better for thicker stuff/a pain on _really_ thin stuff (like body work is next to impossible with it).
OTOH, you can weld castings fine with it if you know what you're doing, and I've never had a problem with a "mess." this is a casting welded to a mild steel flange that I did with a little lincoln welder and some flux core.
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Mark aka: Silverback, WS6 TA, JYDog, 83 Crossfire TA, mpikas, mmp...
.035 flux core is for thicker metal and can get plenty of penetration on 1/4". its a huge pita to weld thinner stuff wth it. theres no big issue wth flux core besides the fact tht its usually messy.
at work i had .030. thats only place ive ever messed with a flux core, all we used it for was exhaust work and light metal. heavier stuff we used 220 volt mig just like what i use at my shop as well. every one one was puttin the flux core down, i was just stickin up for it. yes it can leave a nasty weld if not hot enough or too much wire speed.
__________________ -Tyler Daily Drivin 2000 White ECSB Truck 370 244/248 .612/.615 112 lsa LS6 Heads Milled .030 Vic Jr. Fast 1375cfm 4150 throttle body
I know that this is a crappy fab work thread. But here is a whole thread dedicated to crappy fab work. It's on an off road web site, thought some of you might be in it for a good laugh though.
You should see some of the stuff that gets brought into the shop that I work at and I have to repair. We constantly have to repair hard hydraulic hoses that have been welded on while on the machinery and people don't seem to understand that even if you clean the oil from the outside of the crack it is still in the crack itself. They will leak almost every time. We are required to penetrant die or ultrasonic test alot of the welds on thicker material.
__________________ 1996 M6 Formy, full boltons with hotcam. Tickshift level 2 t56, 4.10 gears. About to drop my forged 355 in with ARP rod bolts and main studs, mild ported heads, 30lb SVO redtops, BBK 52mm, and a CC 306.
at work i had .030. thats only place ive ever messed with a flux core, all we used it for was exhaust work and light metal. heavier stuff we used 220 volt mig just like what i use at my shop as well. every one one was puttin the flux core down, i was just stickin up for it. yes it can leave a nasty weld if not hot enough or too much wire speed.
sorry about that. guess its jus a matter of setup. i hve more of an ssue wth my own speed. i usually get a bead that looks like a damn stick weld. (too fast guess)
__________________ 89 Camaro RS: 6.0L, L92 heads, Patriot Golds, LS7 cam, Spec Flywheel, Ram Clutch, T56, Pro 5.0, Lous Short Stick, L76 Intake, Holley 90mm TB, 42LB delphi injectors, 255 Pump.>>>>>>>>>> Stock Parts For Sale SBC Engine Parts<<<<<<<<<<<<
Quote:
Originally Posted by President George W. Bush
I think the national anthem ought to be sung in English, and I think people who want to be a citizen of this country ought to learn English and they ought to learn to sing the national anthem in English.
OTOH, you can weld castings fine with it if you know what you're doing, and I've never had a problem with a "mess." this is a casting welded to a mild steel flange that I did with a little lincoln welder and some flux core.
Hard to tell for sure, but it doesn't look like you got much penetration into that casting. How has the part held up so far?
You could actually see the weld just coming through the back side, but then just for good measure I ran a bead the whole way around the inside also because I didn't want the weld bead next to the bolt holes on the outside.
Generally when you don't have good penetration you can see it with a weld bead that kind of sits on top of the base metal rather than whetted out to the roots of the weld like you see in that one, and you can tell that I didn't to do the "stack of tack welds" thing that a lot of shops started doing to make pretty looking (but crappy structurally) MIG welds because I don't have the pit from stopping on each one (for that matter, you can see that that particular weld was put down in 3 beads to keep from overheating any one spot and keep the casting happy because you can see the slag around the ends of the beads, that weld hadn't been wire brushed clean, where it pretty much took on the appearance of a tig weld once you got rid of the bit of smoke/spatter)
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Mark aka: Silverback, WS6 TA, JYDog, 83 Crossfire TA, mpikas, mmp...
wtf was that guy thinking you can get regular non electric cutouts for like 30 bucks made out of stainless steel if you do not have the money for an electric one.
This guys lungs are having a bad day.....Galvanized is bad stuff to weld on. Mig is great for welding similar types of steel together, but TIG is the way to go for welding different steels together. They make rods that let you combine metals for a stronger end weld.
Flux core welding is better for the thick stuff, it has a better "dig" then gas. Gas is cleaner and if you have a strong enough welder, you get stronger welds if you get the penetration you need.
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Headers and exhaust for christmas!!!
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In 47 years i have repaired some real garbage. But this stuff is real bad. Plumber pipes??????? Did anyone tell this guy they make electric cutouts??????????
that is the old school cut-out, obviously the welding leaves much to be desired but that was a pretty popular way to go back in the day. Thank god for technology eh.
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.035 flux core is for thicker metal and can get plenty of penetration on 1/4". its a huge pita to weld thinner stuff wth it. theres no big issue wth flux core besides the fact tht its usually messy.
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