LS Engine puller plate

the_merv · 10-11-2009, 03:32 PM

Has anyone seen a plate that you can bolts to where the Valley Cover goes and use it to pull/lift the engine?

I was just wondering.. I'm about to put my engine back in soon and it would help..

highwaystar · 10-11-2009, 05:34 PM

Yep, Car Shop and a few other sponsers have them

RARON455 · 10-12-2009, 11:56 PM

QTP makes one to.

the_merv · 10-13-2009, 08:44 AM

I actually made one earlier today out of some steel I had laying around. I just need some Grade 8 Bolts and I'm good.

The holes aren't drilled yet, but you get the idea..

01ssreda4 · 10-14-2009, 04:52 PM

weld looks a little cold

No, seriously, your weld looks a little cold

You wouldnt need that plate if you took the motor out from the bottom

daniel6718 · 10-15-2009, 12:48 AM

bottom ftw...dont have to pull tranny or wire harness or headers or accessories

the_merv · 10-15-2009, 02:04 AM

K..even if you pulled it from the bottom this little thing will help get it off the K-member with the Cherry Picker..think outside the box fellas..

A friend of mine welded it..it works.

NemeSS · 10-15-2009, 03:18 PM

if u gonna pull out the bottom, might as well swap in a tubular kmember while your there.

i have always pulled it out the top with hood in place and with trans attached.

merv, i made one like the one u made, but i had the plates made on a cnc waterjet. with a dust shield also, but i dont think there is a market for them.
qtp and other alredy make similar designs

99Bluz28 · 10-15-2009, 04:33 PM

The QTP-10100 is about $53, 1/4" stainless steel.

Phoenix 5.7 · 10-16-2009, 01:56 PM

not the best, but i cut the knock sensor tubes off of a spar valley plate and used that for my last engine swap

the_merv · 10-16-2009, 02:32 PM

^^I'm suprised that Cast Aluminum didn't break.

01ssreda4 · 10-20-2009, 08:59 PM

Me too, cast aluminum is weak shit

hookemdevils22 · 10-20-2009, 11:11 PM

like this? 1/4" plate steel. The base is 18.5" x 6", and the vertical plate is 12" x 2.5" with three 1.5" holes. I used the valley cover to mark the bolt holes and drilled them slightly oversized. Note that you have to remove the cam sensor unless you grind it down in the back. $14 for the steel plus weld time, or free if you have some scrap metal chillin' at the shop.

Big_Bird_WS6 · 10-22-2009, 04:41 PM

i got two laying around. 55 shipped. made out a stainless.

Big_Bird_WS6 · 10-22-2009, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NemeSS

if u gonna pull out the bottom, might as well swap in a tubular kmember while your there.

i have always pulled it out the top with hood in place and with trans attached.

merv, i made one like the one u made, but i had the plates made on a cnc waterjet. with a dust shield also, but i dont think there is a market for them.
qtp and other alredy make similar designs

for pulling them out the top. i made one with a leveler bar on it. all out of a water jet. and 1/4" stainless. works great.

tittan1500 · 10-22-2009, 05:13 PM

I used the TPIS happy hooker. It worked good and the motor slid right into my trans am.

it has a bend it the lifting hook that helps get past the cowil on the 4th gen cars.

http://www.tpis.com/index.php?module...y=Happy+Hooker

serpentnoir · 10-23-2009, 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the_merv

A friend of mine welded it..it works.

I worked once. doesn't mean it won't break the next time.

You couldn't pay me enough to stand under it. Those welds are horrible. Find someone else to do your welding...

rtpassini · 10-23-2009, 07:00 PM

is that the only way to take out the engine with a cherry picker?
seems like a lot of work to get that bolted on (but i have never done it so what do i know. haha)

73 nova guy · 11-14-2009, 04:11 PM

here are the two i built..

one out of 1/4 aluminum

rao · 11-14-2009, 06:13 PM

Not pretty, but it works.