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Old 08-21-2008, 10:58 PM   #1
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Default Dolly for dropping engine out bottom

What dollies have you guys had the best success with for use and fitment when dropping the driveline out the bottom of an f-body. Anything good at the local home depot/lowes? Thanks!
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Old 08-21-2008, 11:42 PM   #2
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1000lb furniture dolly for the tranny and then a small 2x2 motorcyle engine dolley for the engine or u can use another 2 furniture dolleys for the engine. ive had luck with both. bascially ne thing with wheels......skateboards! jk
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Old 08-22-2008, 12:24 AM   #3
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leave the wheels on it and use a floor jack under the k-member. works fine.
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Old 08-22-2008, 07:44 AM   #4
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Thunder Racing has one in their shop, built from square tubing.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attach...3&d=1165197602

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attach...5&d=1165197820

I just used jackstands (one on each side of k-member, one on trans), and then when I wanted to move the whole thing, I used a strut tower brace (left the front struts attached). Threw a nylon hoop around the STB and moved the whole thing with my engine crane. Rolled around the shop just fine.
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Old 08-22-2008, 01:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Camaroholic View Post
Thunder Racing has one in their shop, built from square tubing.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attach...3&d=1165197602

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attach...5&d=1165197820

I just used jackstands (one on each side of k-member, one on trans), and then when I wanted to move the whole thing, I used a strut tower brace (left the front struts attached). Threw a nylon hoop around the STB and moved the whole thing with my engine crane. Rolled around the shop just fine.
This is a picture of the kent more j tool gm uses for this application, you can find them on ebay from time to time or make your own. Just use heavy duty casters. For fbodies casters are no big deal but on vettes and other models you have to slide the assemblies together and the casters make it smooth.


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Old 08-24-2008, 05:58 PM   #6
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i used a 12 dollar movers dolly from harbor freight. I did add two more casters on it because i think it would have snapped it in half if i didnt. lowered it down and pulled it out.
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Old 08-30-2008, 10:24 AM   #7
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Has anyone done it both with a dolly and with the wheels on and a jack? How much easier is it with the dolly? When using a jack and wheels on, where are you placing the jack? I dont want the tailshaft of the tranny to come smashing down. Thanks!
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:23 AM   #8
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I rolled mine out with a homedepot 1000lb furniture dolly. It worked ok if I did this on a regular basis I think I would use some better casters though. I positioned the dolly under the motor and trans and didn't have any problems with the tail shaft smashing down.
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Old 09-01-2008, 10:34 AM   #9
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I used to use an ATV/motorcycle jack under the K member and a floor jack under the trans crossmember when I did it with jackstands. Now, I have a table about 4 feet tall that the whole engine and trans just sit on. Take everything off from the top I need to, lift the car up, roll the table under, set car gently on table (not much weight) and take out the bolts then lift the car back up. If you want to do a heads/cam swap, you just leave it there. If you are replacing anything, I use my cherry picker to move things around where I need them.
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Old 09-26-2008, 12:19 PM   #10
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I used a homemade dolly out of 1x4 and 2x4 with some cheap casters. Used it twice. As long a you are not going into business it should not be a problem. USed a engine hoist to lift car off of engine tranny.
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Old 09-26-2008, 05:18 PM   #11
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I used a pallet and a pallet jack... haha just happened to have them handy
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:06 AM   #12
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ATV jack. Can raise it up and down.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2792

The long handle comes off.
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Old 09-27-2008, 06:05 PM   #13
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We just used some poly rolling pallets from northern tool. They hold 1000 lbs each and worked great on my friend's corvette. You can see one of them holding the rear subframe in this pic.
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Old 09-27-2008, 11:22 PM   #14
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I built a dolly out of 2x3 metal tubing, with a 1/2 plywood deck and 4 dolly wheels...work great. Here's a link of it in action.....

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...6297_8_full.jp

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...297_7_full.jpg
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Old 10-03-2008, 08:04 PM   #15
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I used a pallet and a pallet jack... haha just happened to have them handy
used this also with great results, mainly hondas and acuras but it worked excellent on an S2000 which basically drops the same as an f body
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Old 10-30-2008, 03:43 AM   #16
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I just made one from some wood and wheels from Home Depot!! Works great
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:49 AM   #17
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Home made dolly ...



1x2 tube steel and 4 casters. I welded 2 pieces of 1/4" round stock sticking up that align with holes in the K-Member so that the package would slip or move on the dolly.

I also used tall enough casters to be able to get my floor jack underneath the package. That's been useful a couple times when separating the trans from the motor.
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Old 10-30-2008, 01:05 PM   #18
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Can you drop the kmember and engine while leaving the wheels and shocks, control arms, a-arms in place? The reason I ask is because I have a four post and to drop the motor, the k-member fits between the runners, but obviously the a-arms don't. I know I'd still have to support the front end of the car, but I'd rather leave the shocks and a-arms / control arms in place and just drop the motor and k-member.
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Old 10-30-2008, 05:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Can you drop the kmember and engine while leaving the wheels and shocks, control arms, a-arms in place? The reason I ask is because I have a four post and to drop the motor, the k-member fits between the runners, but obviously the a-arms don't. I know I'd still have to support the front end of the car, but I'd rather leave the shocks and a-arms control arms in place and just drop the motor and k-member.
It could probably be done. Of course you would have to unbolt the a-arms from the k-member which can be a real SOB if the bolts havent ever came out. Once they are unbolted you could probably unbolt the upper strut mount from the body on both sides, disconnect the tie rods, and remove the upper/lower a-arms, knuckle, brake rotor and calipe all as one assembly. You would have to get it aligned afterwords because your a-arm bolt holes are slotted to allow for alignment adjustment.
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Old 10-30-2008, 05:58 PM   #20
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Well, the whole point in dropping the motor would be to go bigger cubes, and if I was that far, I'd spend the extra $500-$600 for a lighter kmember as well.
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