1968 Camaro SS
FULL chassis frame 2x3 box tube
4-link rear with mini-tub
Mustang II steering
404cid LS engine approx 630hp;
ETP heads, Super Victor intake; ATI balancer; COMP cam; Eagle rotator; Mahle pistons; Willys carburetor
th400 with reverse manual valve body
4000 stall by Coan Engineering
9" ford rear 3.89 gear with Moser Nodular case; heavy duty posi-traction; 31 spline Moser axles; disc brakes
Alumastar 2.0 front and rear wheels with Mickey Thompson 315/60 drag radials on rear and M/T 26x6 radial tires on the front
Harwood 4inch outlaw bolt on hood
Completely re-wired with American Autowire Update harnesses- everything works!
I have owned this Camaro 10 years. The paint is an original color of Grotto Blue with a factory style black stripe on the nose and tail panel. The paint job is about 7 years old and looks good from about 20 feet. This car would be a $35-40k car with a fresh coat of paint. The car is a Pro-Street ride with NO roll cage. All the sheet metal has been replaced including the floors. The trunk is still intact. The factory fuel tank has been narrowed and a sump installed. I spent four years building this car to be FULLY streetable. The engine is a very mild build with excellent manners in the hot or cold weather. Hydraulic roller cam and pump gas make it a very practical engine. It will easily cruise through town next to grandma's Caddy- but at the same time runs low mid/low 10 second times on the motor. I have been a best of 10.34 @ 130 mph from a total of six (6) runs at the track. It is a foot-brake launch. Here is a link to a video of a 10.57 run. As you can see the car comes out rather tamely. Hooks very well with about 1.50 or better 60' and goes straight! I will send more pictures upon request. The car can be picked up and driven home. Or I can drive it to you and drop it off.
Bump for you......but just a heads up.....the price seems to be high.
__________________ 01' Arctic White SS
AS stage 2 5.3's, Comp 230/236 custom grind cam, Fast 90/90, Yella Terras, Moser 12 bolt w/4.11's, full BMR susp, Spec stage 3 clutch, LT's and Loudmouth!! and a whole bunch of other goodies!!
economy is the key word here.
i wouldnt sell mine for less than $22500.
and i bought it for $14000. and i didnt build the car.
it has a 427 small block with a glide 9" not back halved or hacked up.
runs high 9s ,drive it to the track,go get a beer, and a chesse burger on friday or saturday night.
economy is the key word here.
i wouldnt sell mine for less than $22500.
and i bought it for $14000. and i didnt build the car.
it has a 427 small block with a glide 9" not back halved or hacked up.
runs high 9s ,drive it to the track,go get a beer, and a chesse burger on friday or saturday night.
Well.....now that you know the word economy is the key word.......you should understand why it would be hard, and damn near impossible to pull that kind of money for a car of this nature. Nice car.....really it is, but we were just trying to give feedback....and with any luck aid in some way.
Worst case scenario, he gets a bump.
And if anyone would like me to run them through the economics of the matter....I would be more than happy to, it is what I do on a daily basis.
Bump for a nice ride though!!!!!!!
__________________ 01' Arctic White SS
AS stage 2 5.3's, Comp 230/236 custom grind cam, Fast 90/90, Yella Terras, Moser 12 bolt w/4.11's, full BMR susp, Spec stage 3 clutch, LT's and Loudmouth!! and a whole bunch of other goodies!!
Well.....now that you know the word economy is the key word.......you should understand why it would be hard, and damn near impossible to pull that kind of money for a car of this nature. Nice car.....really it is, but we were just trying to give feedback....and with any luck aid in some way.
And if anyone would like me to run them through the economics of the matter....I would be more than happy to, it is what I do on a daily basis.
Bump for a nice ride though!!!!!!!
blah blah blah.
man why did you get your panties in such a up roar?
it wouldnt be hard to find someone to buy the car.
there is a ass for every seat.
bump for a nice car once again
The mount of work and details that's been put into this car is incredible, you really have to see it in first person. To have someone duplicate it you can expect to pay 3 times as much. Further, this car's a shade away from running a 9 second pass on PUMP GAS naturally aspirated with a drive it anywhere hydraulic roller setup. I don't see Andy (melsie68) taking any less than 25k for it and rightfully so. Whoever gets this car will understand. I've driven it and it's absolutely docile until you push the loud pedal and then it's just hilarious how quick and straight it goes! The chassis of this car made my frame connector equipped 2001 SS feel like a rubber car. To the top for an exceptional vehicle!
Well.....now that you know the word economy is the key word.......you should understand why it would be hard, and damn near impossible to pull that kind of money for a car of this nature. Nice car.....really it is, but we were just trying to give feedback....and with any luck aid in some way.
Worst case scenario, he gets a bump.
And if anyone would like me to run them through the economics of the matter....I would be more than happy to, it is what I do on a daily basis.
Bump for a nice ride though!!!!!!!
I don't really care what the economy is doing; who has money and who does not. The guy with no money isn't going to get the car- PERIOD. Here are the economics of the matter broken down conservatively for you in round whole numbers:
Engine: $8500
Transmission: $1000
Converter: $900
Rear: $2000
Front suspension: $3000
Wheels/Tires: $2500
Backhalf car w/ 4 link susp. and construct frame (labor): $5000
Hood: $500
Wire harness: $400
Plumbing (braided hoses fittings): $500
TOTAL= $24300
Oh wait I forgot something, the cost of the car itself when I bought it: $6000
ACTUAL TOTAL= $30,300
Now let me explain something, I built this car myself. If anyone at all has ever built a car they know there is a lot more involved than just these round whole numbers I have thrown up here. There are hundreds of little pieces I neglected to include because I don't believe it to be necessary in proving my point. All the prices are relative to just about any performance car on the market- AND I would tend to argue that they are on the conservative side. If anyone does not agree with the labor I added in here then take it out of the equation and you are still left with $25,300. But I insist on including it because it is cost associated with the car and that is just about the going rate for someone to backhalf your car- not including installing the entire front half of the subframe/chassis. That labor figure does not include labor in building the engine, the transmission, re-wiring the car, miscellaneous assembly, miscellaneous parts, etc... If you do not build cars you would not understand so don't bother making any comments.
I think it is ignorant for ANYONE to go on another guy's vehicle for sale thread and talk down the car. Save it. It is up to me what I want for the car and your type of "aid" I do not want.
FYI rule #6 for classified threads:
6. Seller harassment is not tolerated. People that reply in threads to cause intentional harm to the sale, or troll and make immature comments could be removed from the site. Beating people down about pricing is uncalled for, althought mature suggestions could be made, with examples. If you aren't interested in the vehicle, simply do not respond. The seller can refuse a sale to anyone for any reason, it is their vehicle to sell.
just wanted to give you a free bump for a nice car and anyone who thinks they can put a price on your car and the time you have invested in it should keep there comments to themselves. good luck with the sale!
Thanks you guys for the comments. From the previous runs I have changed to the Coan Engineering torque converter and I should say the weather was pretty nice this time. The good converter seems to have increased efficiency of the power transfer to the transmission. It has done everything they said it would so kudos to Coan on a great converter. The second pass was a 10.19 @133.61 so I would say the car is getting better. The sixty foot on the second pass was a 1.543 so if I had the better sixty as I did on the first run it would have been even better ET. I would love to try it on trans-brake because I think the harder launch would help it leave even better.
I only take the two time runs because my track then goes to bracket eliminations where you must dial a time in. Where I don't have a cage installed I would have to dial a 11.50 or slower and well, thats no fun. The guy in the tech lane said I need to make a choice about the car if I want to continue drag racing- like install the cage and get the safety gear. Otherwise I should keep on the street and just buy a drag car.
1968 Camaro Pro Street LS stroker th400 1967 1969 
