Slideshow: 5 Tools You Are Using Wrong
Check these tips to ensure you're getting the most out of your tools, from basic maintenance to more involved repairs.
1. Crescent Wrench
Let's start off with an easy one. Adjustable wrenches, crescent wrenches, adjustable spanners—whatever name you want to call them by—you're using them wrong. How? If you are using them on your vehicle at all, you're using them wrong. Crescent wrenches are for working on your ten-speed, not your ten-speed transmission, your ten-speed Huffy bicycle (Schwinns are too nice, use real wrenches on those). We hear you saying: "But, what if I don't have a..." Nope. Take them out of your toolbox. Take them out of your trunk tool kit. The real name for adjustable should be Nut Destroyer. They, when they can be counted on keep their jaws parallel (which is never), work by putting all of the force on the corner of your nut or bolt. Not good. Possible correct uses of an adjustable wrench include: working on the square-headed bolts of your pre-1900 hit-and-miss farm machinery engine (even then, we wouldn't suggest it), and self-defense (we suggest less damaging solutions for that too).
2. Torque Wrench
Next, let's start a fight. Digital/electronic torque wrenches are potentially every bit as accurate as the best precision dial-type torque wrenches. Rumors to the contrary could have something to do with the nature of electronics and batteries. When mechanical objects fail they tend to either deteriorate in stages or else stop working altogether. Electronics, on the other hand, will sometimes give you errant or random false readings, which is a scary thought when it comes to an automotive measuring tool. There's also something to be said for a dial on a scale when it comes to judging things; numbers whizzing by just aren't as intuitive. Of course, some manufacturers make better tools than others, and across the same brand, there is often a range of options moving up in precision and price.
Whether you use a click-type mechanical, beam-type, dial-type, or digital-type wrench there are a few ways to get the most out of your torque wrench and hold errors to a minimum. First off, don't drop them. Sounds simple but we all drop tools. If you often do precision work—like torquing head nuts/bolts on alloy castings—it's a really good idea to have your torque wrenches calibrated regularly to make sure they are still within tolerance. We assume you are already torquing many critical pieces or assemblies in stages, but it's a good idea to follow manufacturer specs and not increase torque steps by small amounts—nothing 5 lbs or under—keep it closer 10 or 15 lbs because the break-away torque of an already-tight fastener will affect your reading.
3. A Drill and a Tap, Together
Time is the enemy. Sometimes the things we do to steal back a little time end up costing us when we are least ready to pay. Come to think of it that's usually when we try to cheat time. Using a drill, drill press, or mill to drive a tap (sometimes called power-tapping) is not recommended. Metal is unpredictable, and hard to see through. Even if we prepped a piece—such as the existing threads in a casting—by thoroughly cleaning them and using plenty of cutting fluid, it's still easy to hit a bit of corrosion that could cause your tap to jam or break. If you are power-tapping you're not going to be able to feel a problem, and shut things down, before you break a tap off inside a part. And power-tapping makes it difficult to feel any binding due to excessive metal chips that could have the same effect. In short, power tapping is best left to Reb Beach.
4. 12-Point Sockets
Know what you should be using 12-point sockets on? Twelve-point nuts and bolts, like rod bolts for instance. Craftsman used to sell a packaged set of tools they called a 'mechanics' set. Why was it called that? Because it included only 6-point sockets; not a 12-point in sight. Even Sears knew what's up. Excuses can be made for employing a 12-point box wrench—sometimes you don't have enough access to swing 1/6 of a turn with a wrench. And yes, the best flank-drive 12-point tools will rival the gripping and damage-avoiding abilities of lesser 6-pointers—but a 6-point socket gives you superior grip. Don't you want superior grip?
5. Pickle Fork
A pickle fork is used by some people to separate tapers, typically ball joints. Don't be one of those people. It works by prying apart two metal objects and it usually damages at least one of those objects, not to mention the dust covers and rubber boots it chews up in the bargain. Now we are going to tell you to pound on your car with a big hammer. It's one of the only times we will tell you this and you have to do it right and not miss and smash other parts, like fingers, but nothing works better and it won't hurt your car. On a ball joint, for instance, loosen the nut holding the joint together but don't take it all the way off—so that when the joint comes loose parts don't fly. And be advised that this only works on steel knuckles (the part containing female part of the taper), don't try it on any other material. Back the knuckle up on the opposite side with a heavy piece of metal, like a heavy hammer or other pieces of steel/brass/lead. This will help isolate the force inside of the knuckle and magnify the blow. Now hit it on the side of the knuckle (do not hit the nut!) with a very heavy steel hammer. If you don't have enough room to swing a hammer, you can use a heavy punch to transmit the force. The blow will deflect the taper just enough to pop it apart. The knuckle is strong and thick and you won't damage it. Some may prefer pullers, and pullers can often help put tension on the knuckle that will help pop the taper apart, but pullers exert a less direct force and can break or damage other parts. Just don't miss with the hammer. And even if you are squeamish about using the hammer method, leave the pickle fork at the discount tools store where it belongs.
For help with your maintenance and repair projects, please visit our how-to section in the forum.