Air Shocks- Call me Crazy!
No Air Pressure: Lowered ride height- about the same as before.
20 psi: raised back end 3/8", no tire rub, good feel,handles well restored zero center. No bounce, fender height measures the same.
30 psi: raised back end 1/2", tight ride, no bounce, no rubbing with two, 200 plus # guys onboard. Hooking up good, could be better. Good measurments.
35 psi: still 1/2" increase in height, two guys and 150 lbs. of luggage- no rubbing, tight firm ride , no bounce, hooking up well, rear level- same measurments at fender wells.
35 psi- drivers side, 45 psi passenger side: Ride height is 1/4" higher on passenger side. Car is hooking up incredibly well, pulls straight and hard out of hole, runs straight down track. Handling feels normal- no noticeable probelms with exaggerated lean on turn in.
Running at 30 psi for normal driving- 35/45 psi for drags. These shocks have a 200 psi max. Anything above 60 psi results in a buck board ride. We called these shocks "Hi-Jackers" back in the day- maybe they have a place in the new muscle car era.
Let me here your thoughts
PeeDee
pressure * piston area somehow. They have a
fixed damping. They will have a variable-rate
characteristic as travel compresses the air.
I use air shocks on my Caprice convertible to
get it level (4 feet of *** overhang from the axle
has sagged the springs over time) with no ill
effect. But this is not a G-machine....
If the stock air shock damping is what you like
then it's all good; but I don't see the air shocks
as being performance-designed, just load / tow
oriented. Which may get you to the same result
though - "it could happen".
What's the part number? I'm fixed to put lowering
springs and SLP Bilsteins on this week, and if
I need a plan B I could see going this way. Seems
like a built-in "drag bag", it could be cool if the
damping is right for the car. Wonder if Gabriel has
published shock rate data that could be compared
to known F-body shock types' numbers.
Thanks for your input. Yes, I realized that air shocks were primarily for load/tow situations. My main reason for going this route was to keep the tires and fenders from contacting each other and to get the car sitting right again. The added benefit of traction improvement was just icing on the cake. I have Eibach Pro springs and have not been happy on how they have settled in after a year. The air shocks do help tune the spring rates.
These shocks, P/N 39203, are listed for 99-2002 T/A or WS6. Without air the damping seems to be fine, no noticeable difference from the Bilsteins I had before the Hal's. The Hals are a pain to adjust- easier to do it with air and the push of a button ( I had a SUN mini- compressor with an auto leveling module, that I installed.)- Auto level can be turned off for drag settings.
Alot of new cars come with air ride suspension- Cadilac & Lincoln have been doing it for years. I figures what the hell- Works for me. I am not looking for the ultimate G-machine or drag car- just a good looking road burner, that handles, accelerates, stops, rides well and doesn't throw off sparks and tire smoke at every little bump. Good Luck with your ride.
Alot of new cars come with air ride suspension- Cadilac & Lincoln have been doing it for years
My understanding of what you have done is: steel springs and air-pressurized shocks? Did you replace or supplement the Hals?
--VIP1
extra line kit, for about the same price. But they gave
me a box that had 42903 on it. Wonder what's the diff.
The SLP Bilsteins I just put on are a bit hard and I'll
see if these are a happy combo with the Hotchkiss.





