Here is my question. For a carbed LSx setup, say a cam only setup, what size carb are folks running 750's or would a 650 do?

 

thanks... I can drive it any where and I haven't even tried to pull weight out of the car.

funny thing is ... it idles so good people think I am running a stockish Gen1 motor.

When I pop the hood most people say ... "oh you running a 350"

I joke a say a new model ford with no Distrubtor... LOL

They mostly cant tell. Coil packs are a dead give-a-way to me.


What I would love to do is... add a Blow thru single turbo... That would be WICKED !!

 

I have a AED 680 Holley double pumper on my 346...

650 to small... 750 lil to big

IMO

750 is good for 6.0 and 6.2 litre

 

I do have ported heads too, but I have had a 650 mighty demon, 750 speed demon and a 750 mighty demon on mine. Out of the 3 the 750 speed demon gives the best throttle response and pulls the hardest. However if I decide to drive mine more often I will put the 650 on because it runs good also I think it just leaves a little on the table.

 

Here's a more recent pic of my setup.

New additions

Norris catch can for PCV system
50cc acclerator pump for carburetor (solved off idle stumble)
15 degrees base timing at idle vacuum advancing to 24 degrees at idle
28 degrees max timing WOT, 40 degrees max timing cruise
72 primaries, 76 secondary jets with a 6.5 power valve gave me 14.6AF at idle, 12.8 at WOT, and 13.6 at cruise
I also installed a FAST dual wide band 02 sensor setup which logs and everything

 

You guys running electric fuel pumps?

 

Yeah, magnafuel 300 with built in pre filter.

 

I run a Holley Red, 97 GPH, internally regulated at 7psi, 3/8" briaded SS fuel line, no return line. Mounted the pump about 4" forward of tank. Ran 10AWG copper house wire to the pump gets 14.2v all the time and have not had any fuel issues whatsoever with it.

 

E-pump. Holley Blue

 

Hmmm sure is a big spread in carburetor prices for Holley 750's, what gives?

 

I got mine from Ebay for $80 just a standard holley 750, 4160, 3310-2.

metering plate to metering block conversion kit - $35
electric choke - $50
rebuild kit - $50
spring kit - $12
50cc accelerator pump kit - $40
Holley Adjust-a-jet metering blocks (infinite external jetting) - $100 from ebay ($200+ new)

I good carb will cost around $400 at minimun to get it right for your setup.

 

Are folks mounting their 6010's on the engines? Shawn I've read your posts about the 6010, I'll definitely look over them once I get the parts. I want to try a carbed LSx for my '51 Merc, just because I never did one before.

 

I've seen a few mounted on the engine, some mounted inside, and some mounted on the firewall. They include 4 ruber mounts with studs to mount it with. I have my just jammed next to my battery for right now haha.

 

I temporarily mounted my 6012 box on the fenderwell. Didn't want to shorten the harness until I was sure everything works. I don't like the hard plastic convoluted tubing they ship with the harness. Plan on switching to fiberwrap when I move the box under the dash.

My timing set up is like Shawns for now. Adding the vacuum advance really helps it start easier. I bought a USB to serial converter off Amazon for $10. Works great.

Have a Holley 750 HP, mechanical secondaries, 72 primary and 76 secondary jets. Had to increases the accel pump discharge nozzles and use more agressive pump cams to get rid of the stumble, but so far haven't needed the 50 cc squirter like everyone else did. Mallory Comp 140 electric fuel pump with a return style regulator on the firewall.

This pic made me cry when I finally got the build this far.

 

I know on mine, it is a 402 Ls2 with 11:1 and on the dyno, we were having some vacuum issues and the larger the carb I put on, the less backfeed we would have. I ended up putting an Hp1000 on it and it made the most power with that. This engine is a thirsty bitch.
We will see with the new setup. upping the compression and more radical cam, super victor and putting a vacuum pump on it. With the new ring gap and compression, I think the ve will be around 90+%, so it will probably end up being an HP850 or worked over HP750.

 

i have a 5.3 i got from a friend. i got everything but the computer. im putting it infront of a 200-4r. im thinking about running a carb instead of injection to make the computer programing a non issue and to fix the trans kick down problem. is there anyway i can still run coil packs with a carb? if so or if not what all would i need. thanks.

 

Welcome to the group! I saw your post yesterday, but I figured some of the regulars would jump in and fix you up. Since they haven't yet, I'll see if I can get you started. If your question is only about the coil packs, you can easily do what you propose. All you need is the proper MSD box, either the #6010 for the 24 tooth reluctor crank engines or the #6012 box for the later engines with the 58 tooth reluctor. Edelbrock also sells a box, which is actually made by MSD which will also work, but most people prefer the ones sold by MSD which allow you to use a laptop and change both the regular advance curve and also the vacuum advance curve. This lets you tailor it for various cams and etc. The boxes come with a harness that simply plugs into the various sensors and the coil packs. Plug it in and you are ready to go. I forgot to mention that ALL the boxes come with a set of small "pills" that you plug into the boxes. Each one has a different curve and they will get you started or could be " ideal " for your setup. As far as which reluctor (number of teeth) you have, it depends on the year of the engine, and from what I understand, even this is not set in stone. Usually, 2004 back are 24 tooth but there are exceptions to this, at least in GTO's and Corvette's. Not sure about the 5.3 truck motors. You can identify which reluctor by the color of the plug for the crank sensor just above the starter. Unfortunately, I have forgotten which is which, so someone else will have to come in here. I like your choice of the 200-4R. That is what I'm running behind my 6.0 with carb in my '34 coupe. You do know that you need a special bracket to fix the geometry of the carb linkage for the line pressure and kickdown to work properly?? This is critical on the 200-4R to keep from burning it up!! These are commonly available from Jeg's or Summit among others. Good luck and I'm sorry I was so long winded.

 

been researching the parts i need to make the swap in a 67 Camaro currently a big block and going to retain th400 trans chime in if im forgetting anything
5.3l/6.0l engine ,flywheel & crank spacer of 6.0l, ls1/lt1 radiator
edelbrock performer intake, MSD 6010 ignition box,electric fuel pump
small block engine mounts & engine adapter plates cheapest
oil pan trying to find cheapest kind thanks for any input

 

Dont for get the CARB !!

Your good...

 

mech is better for racing