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Syclone LQ4/4L80E tc78 build

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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 08:11 AM
  #21  
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Eviltwin's plan will work just fine.

The BW4472 tcase he's using has held up to some serious power in Sy's and Ty's. And they're even offering some new billet pieces for it (custom 32 spline inputs, billet 5 pinion planetary). That tcase has the advantage of splitting power front to rear automatically, completely mechanically with no external controls.

Reason he's not using a different case is those controls. The "AWD" cases used in the later SUV's that mount up to the 80e (the NV246, for example) needs electronic controls. The way those cases work are its actually a 2wd case with a electronically controlled clutch that drops in the front axle on command. Can't run it in 4wd all the time (without controls) because there's no slip in the clutch (it's either on or off). When its off, you've got a 2wd truck, on and its a truck locked in 4hi (or lo) and will bind badly on pavement. The required controls are in the trucks' BCM, so he'd have to do alot of integration work to use one of those cases (or start with a later truck that already has that hardware).

I think he's going down the right path. But it certainly is going to be snug under the hood (I know mine is and I don't have a turbo).

'JustDreamin'
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:13 AM
  #22  
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justdreamin, do you know if i will have clearance problems with the head and heater core?
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:31 AM
  #23  
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sweet build man syclones are sick!! oh and a little off topic post some pics of your 65
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 12:31 PM
  #24  
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Those rims on that truck are sick
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by eviltwin_1987
justdreamin, do you know if i will have clearance problems with the head and heater core?
Kinda depends upon where you put the motor.

I used the Turbotime mounts, and on my 2nd gen, I ended up having to trim the AC / vent system box. Wasn't anything super major, but was a pain. But was a lesser evil than having to deal with the brake booster.

On both sides the coil packs did not clear, so I made new brackets, and on the pass side I ground all the rear coil bracket bosses off to fit.

Again, I've got a 2nd gen, so there are some slight differences.

'JustDreamin'
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Prerun4fun13
sweet build man syclones are sick!! oh and a little off topic post some pics of your 65


dont have the black wheels anymore



has a 4 bolt main 355 w/ mild cam. tbi w/ all msd ignition stuff. t56 and a 12 bolt. triangulated 4-link in the rear with 4" z up front. and alot of cutting/welding.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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got rod bolts and -10 bund for turbo drain $91 shipped from summit

build total $3163
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 01:32 PM
  #28  
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Default Syclone LQ4......

Eviltwin,

Great job man. Keep feating us with all this info. I just got a LQ4 with only 3k miles short block for $80!!!!! and I think I came to this web at the right time.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 02:47 PM
  #29  
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Nice thats the answer I was looking for JustDreamin.

Let see the adapter plates to get that T case to work on the 4L80.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 03:54 PM
  #30  
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Adapter plates to make the 80E work with the BW4472 are readily available. Look over at SyTy.net. Vendor to look for is Prime Gears = George Blake. He's got the hookup on those bits. I think there are some other vendors who have the adapter available.

There are actually 2 things required to make a 4472 work behind a 80e.
1.) Adapter plate. This is the easy part.
2.) Something to adapt the tcase input shaft / trans output shafts. Stock, and 80e is 32 spline output and the 4472 is 27 spline input (much smaller shaft in comparison). There are 2 ways to fix this mismatch. Either swap the output shaft of the tranny for a 27 spline unit (which are re-machined factory 32 spline units, since the 80e isn't offered in 27 spline) or swap the input shaft to the transfer case to a 32 spline unit (which is a full custom aftermarket piece). The tcase input is the nicer solution, since you end up with bigger shafts and higher spline counts. And taking the tcase apart is infinitely simpler than taking the ENTIRE 80e apart to change output shafts, which is about the first thing that loads into the case and the last to come out. Basically, you can use a stock 4wd 80E (or at least stock configuration even if it has been rebuilt).


Oh, and as far as brakes go, there's a vendor who makes a bracket to mount the C5 stuff on the 1st gen 4wd S10 spindle. The 2nd gen spindle is different and nobody makes a bracket for that application (I've made a set, waiting on finishing the garage to swap wheels / tires and upgrade the brakes).

Sorry for the near hi-jack. Now returning to your regularly scheduled thread.

'JustDreamin'
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 04:05 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Sabre002
Nice thats the answer I was looking for JustDreamin.

Let see the adapter plates to get that T case to work on the 4L80.
i got the adapter in today

spent $240 at rpm

build total $3403
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 04:26 PM
  #32  
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In for interest in seeing it done
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 04:51 PM
  #33  
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The prime gears input shaft is the way to go super easy to put it. also a short shaft for the shift lever is needed or the front drive shaft hits it. Nice build I picked up typhoon to do this to, I decided to put it all in 240sx instead. (its still in progress though)
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 05:28 PM
  #34  
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Be careful with the summit fittings. They are ******* garbage! Had one fall apart on my turbo feed and 1 leak at the pivot on my drain.

Looks ***** though!
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 05:56 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ls1_chevelle
Be careful with the summit fittings. They are ******* garbage! Had one fall apart on my turbo feed and 1 leak at the pivot on my drain.

Looks ***** though!
thanks. i just got to say your chevelle is bad ***.

got this in today to
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 06:06 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by eviltwin_1987
thanks. i just got to say your chevelle is bad ***.

got this in today to
Thanks dude. Heads up for ya on the headbolts.... When you pull the stock bolts out, there will be sleeves. Throws those out, also, I did 1 rod at a time. The factory rods(not sure about aftermarket) are "cracked" so they will only go back together 1 way. This 1 rod at a time. Just made life easier for myself. Make sure to grease up the bolts nicely with the supplied assembly grease. Make sure you have a 3/8" 12 point socket. Thats what you will need for the ARP bolts. Not a common socket in most sets you buy.

-Matt
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 01:24 AM
  #37  
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just finished putting the rod bolts in. thanks for the tips ls1_chevelle. the oilpan should get welded tomorrow and be installed. I got the syclone weighed too so i can start tearing onto it tomorrow. It weighed 3580 with me in it and an empty tank. Im about 175 so lets just say the truck weighs 3405. Had my brother take out the front prop shaft today. I hear its bad to drive without it in but i wanted to see what its like. I now know why the truck was awd. traction was a big issue. From a stop i would just step on it and when it hit full boost the rear would be all over the place. The motor/trans/t-case should be out this weekend. now i wont be driving the truck for a while
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 02:15 AM
  #38  
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I think this is gonna be a nice truck, but honestly, I HATE seeing people do it to them since there so rare. I got a Sy sitting in the driveway, and the ONLY things I would ever do to it would be purely bolt-ons. You could easily get it into the 10s with a built motor, trans and turbo setup.
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by squee
I think this is gonna be a nice truck, but honestly, I HATE seeing people do it to them since there so rare. I got a Sy sitting in the driveway, and the ONLY things I would ever do to it would be purely bolt-ons. You could easily get it into the 10s with a built motor, trans and turbo setup.
purely bolts-ons. you can purley bolt in this setup if you want to spend a ton more money. i understand though. i just wanted to stay more reliable. and i cant see a built v6 been that reliable. I will also have less money into this at the end compared to a build v6 and trans.

at least im keeping turbo/awd
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 10:52 AM
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Out of curiosity, where are you planning on locating the turbo? I know its snug under the hood, but there should still be room (after all, if Jeff can squeeze a V8 and twins under there, a V8 and a single should work too).

'JustDreamin'
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