Miro's LS1 240 Drift Build
im running over a .600 lift cam and have NEVER had any problems. even at 6800rpm in 3rd gear bouncing the rev limiter for 10 seconds at a time hehe. just make sure you run a GOOD dual valvespring.
and get it tuned. the stock tune is junk even for a stock motor.
im running over a .600 lift cam and have NEVER had any problems. even at 6800rpm in 3rd gear bouncing the rev limiter for 10 seconds at a time hehe. just make sure you run a GOOD dual valvespring.
and get it tuned. the stock tune is junk even for a stock motor.
But wow, 6800 RPM. That is sweet. I would be clenching my *** cheeks at that RPM waiting for it to pop. I guess I've just been very conservative after my first KA popped at an event in June. The course was kind of a killer with a really big loop, and I was over 6k for 20-30 seconds.
I'm taking all of these engine suggestions into consideration before I make my final decisions.
.OK, time for a little update. I didn't get as much done as I was hoping for this weekend. I was helping my friend Mel (UsJdmtuner) get a bunch of things done to his car to prepare for the Drift Nirvana event at Summit Point on Saturday. We're going to take on the triple skid pad of death (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPxzb5f7u-M)... haha. It's actually quite safe... should be a good time.
Installing some Tomei LSD action in Mel's car.
Best part of Mel's car so far: Bride Zeta III seat. So nice. Highly recommended. Check out the burberry door panels and shifter boot... lol.
Now back to rust. Finally got it all cut out of the left front.
Patched up the lower frame rail and firewall. Getting the curve of the firewall right took a long time. (Let's hope I got it in far enough so it clears the wheel... should probably check this.)
Also, the frame rail is double layer (16 gauge and 18 gauge), so I decided to mimic that by welding in pieces flush with the rail, then grinding down the welds and welding another piece covering the original patch.
Inside the car. I had to cut out the mounting plate used for the foot rest because it was rusted underneath, so still need to make a new mount for that.
The good news is that there isn't much rust anywhere else in the car. I have to patch four small spots in the floor and a piece of the rocker panel. These are all either flat or have a simple curve, so shouldn't be too bad after left front is done. Then, I can finally start on the cage. Have been looking forward to doing it for so long.
Have you driven a 240 LSx car before? Have you drifted one?
Glenn ***
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Have you driven a 240 LSx car before? Have you drifted one?
Ya, 240s suck at not rusting. I wish I lived in CA. No HUD, it's a base model.
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one thing that i had to learn too was the on off switch you mentioned. its not a turbo car. you cant drive it like WOT/off/WOT/off/WOT/off like you can with a SR. its more like WOT/50%/30%/50%/WOT haha
Mel was telling me that he could hear your car from a mile away at the Christmas party... haha. Nice.
one thing that i had to learn too was the on off switch you mentioned. its not a turbo car. you cant drive it like WOT/off/WOT/off/WOT/off like you can with a SR. its more like WOT/50%/30%/50%/WOT haha
Me too
Nice car, btw. Looks good. Last edited by miro; Dec 9, 2008 at 10:38 PM.
0.525"/0.525" Lift
226/236 degrees Duration
110 degrees LSA
Pros
* Low lift (safe at high RPM)
* Long duration (can eat more air at high RPM)
* Should work well with low back pressure exhaust (has 5.5 degrees overlap, but reversion shouldn't be an issue with low back pressure exhaust)
Cons
* May have poor idle due to some reversion
Good thats it's not just me who has rust problems...
Im building a Skyline R32 with LS3, but its mainly the same, so If you have any question, don't hesitate to contact me.
Skylines Australia
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