Ah, I see. Best of luck!

 

Originally Posted by Joey@TickPerf
Did you talk to Jeremy? SPEC-01 here on LS1tech. He's great to work with and won't give you a mouth full of crap unless you give him one first.


I dont agree!

 

anybody know if the McLeod RST needs shimmed?

 

Unsure. Measure to be sure.

Thanks for the sticky!

 

Is this shim process the same for C5's vs F bodies?

 

I was talking about this shimming process with another tech at work and he brought up a good point. GM does not have this procedure, it doesn't exist. I'm going to be installing a used Tex and I wanted to know if it should be shimmed or not. A new Tex does not require a shim, so technically a used one shouldn't either. Unless for whatever reason the company requires the clutch to be shimmed every X miles. I understand that I'm comparing OEM and aftermarket but I figured I would share.

 

Yes it is only you are measuring to the torque tube flange instead of the tranny when you measure the slave cylinder.

 

what are you guys using to measure....like a square to put on the bellhousing face then a scale to measure to the PP fingers? and how about the face of the slave to the torque tube face in my case (c5)
Tick any experience with Spec Twins?
Jeremy says they need shimmed 100% but Im going to measure to be sure

 

I dunno if anyone has asked this but thought it would help the people looking to maybe solve a problem caused by not having a shim. what problems can be expected from not having the shim but needing one.
thanks
Wesley

 

question for you clutch gurus.


Im putting a 2005 SSR t-56 behind a 2001 vette ls1. I have the correct flywheel and clutch setup for the vette ls1 and I had a ssr slave but now I switched to one from a corvette. The dimensions of the ssr slave and the corvette are identical, except the corvette has a bleeder screw where the ssr one didn't.

On to my problem. the slave is not compressing on the clutch fingers and it looks as if it is like 3/4 of an inch from all the way compressed when I look through the starter hole with a mirror and a flashlight. Because the slave isnt barely compressing when I do go to disengage the clutch with the pedal it over extends the slave and it pisses fluid everywhere.

Does anyone think I would really need something like a 3/4 inch spacer? I know hotrod mag put the ssr t56 behind the ls7 in the solstice but they wont get back to me with what exactly they did.

Im really desperate for help right now. Thanks.

 

I have a question, because my throw out bearing in my 02 trans am just burnt up and the center part of the bearing pushed threw the top of the bearing, and i replaced it with one from the auto parts store, and i'm having problems. I have a spec 3 clutch i installed a year ago with a new flywheel and slave cylinder. Clutch has always engaged about half way down the pedal. Well i put the new throw out bearing in, and now it releases all the way at the top and the clutch slips because it's not engaging all the way. I took it back down and apart, and did the measurements just like at the beginning of this thread. Only difference is the part of the bellhousing i left attached to the tranny is different than the diagram, because I unbolted it from the actualy block. So the measurement from the fingers of the pressure plate back to where the bellhousing bolts on is 3 and 3/4 inches, and the measurement from the throwout bearing when bottomed out on the slave to the edge of the bellhousing is 3 and 1/2 inches. So that means when the tranny is bolted on, the pressure plate fingers are coming in 3 and 3/4 inches into the transmission, but only has 3 and 1/2 inches until it hits the throw out bearing, causing it to constantly be slightly engaged by 1/4 inch. I have no idea what has changed, since my clutch has never slipped for the past year and has always engaged half way down the pedal like it should. I first thought the throw out bearing that i got with my spec 3 clutch might have been shorter in height than a stock one, but i called spec and had them measure the throw out bearings they have in their kits, and it is the same as the one i got from the parts store, 1 and 7/8 inches tall. So now i'm lost! I know if the gap was the opposite way, you could shim the slave, but my gap seems to be in the wrong direction. I already took the clutch down and inspected to make sure it wasn't fried, it's still in great condition with only a few thousand miles on it. Any suggestions or anyone else had this problem before?? Sorry about the long post guys..................

 

What is the ideal clearance between the throwout bearing and the clutch fingers for a spec 3+ clutch? Were putting a new engine in a C5 and had the whole thing mocked up outside the car yesterday so we could visually see the space between the bearing and the clutch fingers with it installed on the engine and it was about 1/8" in some places and a little greater in others as you went around the fingers... I have the shim that came with it but with that it presses firmly up against the fingers and I cant imagine that to be acceptable. But I do work in a machine shop and can surface grind that shim down so my spacing is exact.

So once again, what do I want for ideal clearance between the fingers and bearing...

The car also has a Tick master....

 

I just did a spec twin in my vette, I had 3/16" I didnt use one as that was right in Slowhawks recommendation, I called Tick to be sure...they said if i was using stock master that they would shim but if I used the Tick master no shim...anyways my thinking....3/16" is .187" the shim i measured was .110 thick leaving only about .08" gap....one the clutch breaks in/wears that gap gets smaller so I think Im good to go with no shim and stock master, clutch pedal on the PT trim twin is good....pretty grabby as its not broken in yet...Im sure a couple 5000 rpm slips at the track will make this clutch a little easier to slip on the street as chatter is pretty bad right now...it doesnt like to be slipped with much rpm at a stop.....i can back up in reverse with no throttle and its smooth but going forward anything over idle rpm and it chatters
Just my experiences

 

Good information in this thread and good timing. My transmission is out right now for a rebuild so I can check the measurements on my Textralia to see if they coincide with the measurements listed in this thread.

A question, though: we have Tick telling us more than 1/16" to 1/8" for a new clutch (so basically >1/8") and Slowhawk telling us more 1/8" to 1/4" (so basically >1/4") for a new clutch because of the break-in period. So which one is right? Slowhawk has basically doubled the distance Tick mentioned - 1/8" vs 1/4". What if it measures 3/16"?

Still great info, I'm just a little unclear with the different measurements being tossed around. And if the clutch is already broken in and you're measuring it, I would assume to go with Tick's numbers?

 

mine measured 3/16" i didnt use one....hopefully once broken in itll be 1/8"

 

Does someone know if a Exedy twin plate need a shim or not???

Thanks!

Kevin..

 

I think the point of the thread is that if you're not sure, you should measure because each clutch/car is going to be a little different. These measurements should take all of 60 seconds or less to do.

 

Where we can bought shim if need some?

Kevin..

 

I got one for sale...its .110 thick

 

so if a shim is needed to change engagement........whats an adjustable master do?