I've been lurking around here bugging people with questions for a couple years now, so I suppose it's about time I get my build thread started. I've owned this Chevelle for 15 years, and I've been looking forward to this swap for quite a while.

Here's what the car looks like now (except the paint isn't this good anymore):



There's a little more info on the car on this old pro-touring.com page:
http://www.pro-touring.com/featured_...1_chevelle.htm

And, so that I've got a goal to work towards, here's my attempt at a rendering. I'm still undecided on the color, but this is one option I'm considering.



I finally picked up a '99 Trans Am donor car a few months ago, and I've been spending my spare time stripping it down since then. I'm planning to swap the engine, tranny, front and rear disc brakes, power brake booster, clutch/brake/gas pedal assembly, front bucket seats, center console and e-brake (probably), cruise control, radiator / e-fan assembly, and some other stuff I'm not thinking of right now.

Here's what's coming out:



And here's what's going in:



The basic plan:

- BRP-style adapter plates with tall/narrow Energy Suspension mounts
- Unmodified F-body pan and accessories
- Notched engine crossmember for a/c compressor
- T-slot modified trans tunnel
- Homebuilt trans crossmember
- TransAm wiring harness & PCM modified by Wait4Me (Jesse Bubb)
- B-body gas tank
- Long tube headers (still trying to decide which ones)
- - still debating between Edelbrock A-body, Hooker A-body, or 98-02 Hooker F-body headers
- Futral 220/220 547/547 114 LSA cam
- Comp 918 valvesprings and chromemoly pushrods
- Ported stock throttle body
- 25% underdrive pulley
- Custom exhaust using two SLP single 2.5" in / dual 2.5" out mufflers

The harness / PCM mods are being done right now by Wait4Me. In addition to removing the rear axle from my donor car, my next project will be to remove the Chevelle's front clip and get ready to pull out the old 350.

Thanks in advance to Bczee, Stealth71, PistolPete, Project GatTaGo, and all you other A-body swappers -- I've been gathering info from your builds for quite a while. Hopefully some of that info will help the process go smoothly.

More updates to come, but the progress might be slow...

 

Those wheels look sick, what are they?

 

In case you didn't catch my pm you should read my reply. I would hate for you to order the wrong headers. Once again I apologize for my misreading.

 

Thanks, they're Salt Flat Specials by American Racing.

 

Good luck on the build. Looking forward to seeing the progress!

Andrew

 

I got it, thanks. I've read a few different times on here that somebody tried F-body headers on their A-body and thought they fit well, but I haven't figured out who it was. Sjandras bought some ebay F-body headers on modified them to work, but I believe they're designed quite a bit differently from the Hooker F-body headers.

My main hesitancy on the Edelbrocks is that I don't like the finish they put on there (or the fact that you have to drill a hole in them and weld the 02 bung in place after they've been coated). I think a true ceramic coating looks better and will maintain its appearance longer, although I do like the fact that the Edelbrocks are stainless. The other thing I don't like about either of the A-body swap headers is the price...

 

I have heard a few complaints about the Edelbrock coating but at least whats underneath is still stainless so it won't rust. My hookers look good now but I know they will rust eventually even with the ceramic coating. I believe the car you are looking for with the F-body headers can be found here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...gle-turbo.html

 

Here is a pic of the headers when LS1 Chevelle had them for sale and you can see the mods required. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-interest.html

 

Good start, get her done!

 

Looks like you've done some homework, waiting to see how the progress goes.. keep up the thread with pictures.

I am using the Edelbrock header, I am also using the early style BRP plate with tall/narrow mounts. all seem to fit ok for me. As far as the trans cross member, with my setup (and what seem like yours), you can use the stock cross member by cutting off the tab, flipping it and re-welding it back in place.

As far as the O2 and welding, I put the O2 in the ball/flange collector and didn't touch the headers. The coating has held up well so far. But since my car's engine bay has only one piece of chrome, the finsh on the Eldelbrock suited my engine bay.

If your going to keep the stock bench seat, the F-Body shifter location will come up right in the front of the seat. You will have to get a shifter relocation kit (McLeod) to use the forward plate/location. This is one of the reason why I ended up using a Viper Re-configured T56. But if your going to buckets, you will not have any problems then.

 

I remember researching your car years ago on Pro-Touring while looking for wheels. I love the stance.

Go with the Edelbrock headers. Like bczee said, you just install the bungs in the other side of the ball flange extension so the coating stays intact.

The coating looks good in person but I have not driven it yet so we will see how a little grime makes them look. I think they are the best option for $519.99. The Edelbrock mounts are also a good choice. My only complaint is a lack of clearance by the oil passage block off plate with the Autokraft pan.

I would also look at the new inexpensive stock style steel fuel tanks that are now available with the in-tank pump. From my understanding you have to cut the trunk floor for the b-body tank. I never liked the plastic tank look on a Chevelle either.

 

That's a good idea. Do the Edelbrocks come with the ball/flange collector, or do you have to buy it separately? Do they come with 02 extensions, or did you extend the harness yourself?

Where did you find them for $519? Summit is $599.

 

They come with a pair of 3" collector extensions with all hardware and gaskets. If you are going into a 2.5", you need to buy reducers.

They do not come with any type of wiring so you will have to add the wire for the O2's.

 

The hookers have a O2 bung installed already. I added V-Band flanges to mine recently and have my WB O2's in the pipe right after the flange. Should be a fun swap. I know I have been driving the crap out of mine.

Good luck.

 

Yes, they come with the 3" ball flange collector.

I ordered one O2 extentions from CurrentPerformance. I only ordered and needed one for the driver side, I just used the rear one, which has a longer wire on the passenger side, I think it was a 24" extention.

One more suggestion, while you have the engine out, swap in a LS6 PCV valley cover, it will 1) work better and 2) clean up the PCV hoses in the engine bay for a cleaner look. It will only set you back $60-$80, cheaper if you find a used one. You have to cut and grind the block, you an find the procedure on LS1HowTo.com

 

If you don't have O2's yet another option is the C5 Corvette rear sensor. It already has long wires on it and is supposed to have a better heater.

 

Both good suggestions, I hadn't run across either of these before. Thanks, guys.

 

I worked on getting the donor car ready to move out of the garage tonight. I didn't get it moved yet, but at least it's ready to. Looks like it'll be time to call the ol' John Deere in for assitance.

 

Good news, I just received notification from Wait4Me that I'll have the harness and PCM back on Friday. That's extremely fast -- I just shipped them out last Thursday. Now, if I was only ready to install them!

 

I didn't have much time in the garage tonight, but I did get the A/C, fan, and shroud removed from the Chevelle this evening.