LQ4/4L60E into 67 Chevelle
Pist0lpete,
My Compressor and bracket are off of a 2000 HD Truck. I have just assumed it is a normal LQ4 [truck] compressor and bracket.
Thanks for the help and suggestions. I will track down info on the Spectre tank, Current Performance auxiliary fuse block and the cv joint. But you explain cutting off the rag joint and grinding shaft, then putting another rag joint on? did you mean the cv joint is what you put back on?
I am waiting on parts [PS pump and Hooker Headers] before I finalize engine placement, so I was going to start wrapping my head around harness/wiring but I am have not located the info I need. I need to know how much harness to I take, Do I take the Truck fuse box [sure is big] or leave it, do I take anything inside the cab? Then how to modify it all...... I'll keep looking.
Rob
My Compressor and bracket are off of a 2000 HD Truck. I have just assumed it is a normal LQ4 [truck] compressor and bracket.
Thanks for the help and suggestions. I will track down info on the Spectre tank, Current Performance auxiliary fuse block and the cv joint. But you explain cutting off the rag joint and grinding shaft, then putting another rag joint on? did you mean the cv joint is what you put back on?
I am waiting on parts [PS pump and Hooker Headers] before I finalize engine placement, so I was going to start wrapping my head around harness/wiring but I am have not located the info I need. I need to know how much harness to I take, Do I take the Truck fuse box [sure is big] or leave it, do I take anything inside the cab? Then how to modify it all...... I'll keep looking.
Rob
1fastbrick,
I pulled the engine harness w/ trans harness and ECU. I unbolted the engine harness from bottom of fuse block. So I actually need to unbolt the others from bottom of fuse block and get the fuse block too.
I found the harness threads [finally -
] and have been reading through them. Probably take quite a few more times to even start to grasp it.
Thanks,
Rob
I pulled the engine harness w/ trans harness and ECU. I unbolted the engine harness from bottom of fuse block. So I actually need to unbolt the others from bottom of fuse block and get the fuse block too.
I found the harness threads [finally -
] and have been reading through them. Probably take quite a few more times to even start to grasp it.Thanks,
Rob
Last edited by robbied31; Feb 3, 2009 at 03:55 PM. Reason: spelling
Rob you caught me there I did have a typo I then mounted the CV joint to the stock shaft.
Check out Rockauto.com for the best price on the spectre tank(search google for an addititonal discount code) and currentperformance.com for the fuse block.
Good idea waiting on the parts to finalize your engine placement. As far as the harness goes you want all the wires that plug into the computer and you could use the stock fuse box but as you mentioned it is quite large. That is where the current performance box comes in. As far as modifying the engine harness you will need to check the stickies for a pin out diagram and then you can trace and remove the un-needed wires.
Edit: I know this wiring stuff seems daunting but its really not bad once you have the wires you need to get power to and hook up for ignition it all comes together quite easily. In my case (maybe not the prettiest) I left all the wires in the harness till I had the engine running then started deleting things.
Check out Rockauto.com for the best price on the spectre tank(search google for an addititonal discount code) and currentperformance.com for the fuse block.
Good idea waiting on the parts to finalize your engine placement. As far as the harness goes you want all the wires that plug into the computer and you could use the stock fuse box but as you mentioned it is quite large. That is where the current performance box comes in. As far as modifying the engine harness you will need to check the stickies for a pin out diagram and then you can trace and remove the un-needed wires.
Edit: I know this wiring stuff seems daunting but its really not bad once you have the wires you need to get power to and hook up for ignition it all comes together quite easily. In my case (maybe not the prettiest) I left all the wires in the harness till I had the engine running then started deleting things.
Is the EFI gas tank everyone is talking about from Spectre Industries or Spectra Premium? rockauto.com has an efi tank for a 67 chevelle from Spectra Premium, but every post I see about the EFI tank say's that spectre Industries makes it. Are they the same tank?
The current performance box makes my truck fuse box un-needed, correct?
Have you bought from rockauto.com before. I saw that you suggested it to someone else. the tank is a good price, but shipping to CA is almost $60. So that would be around $500 for tank/sump/pump. I don't have a tank to start with so the SPI has got to be better than the tank and tanksinc sump/pump combo, huh?
Rob
Last edited by robbied31; Feb 4, 2009 at 09:38 PM. Reason: one more question for Pist0lpete :)
I am not sure which tank brand is correct or if they are the same but whichever one has the internal pump should be the one I don't think anybody else is making that tank that I am aware of.
The current performance fuse block should make your fuse box unnecessary. I can't speak from experience since i used an F-body harness but a quick email to currentperformance should clear that up.
I believe I bought a couple fittings from Rockauto in the past and shipping was fast and I have heard nothing but good things from a couple others on here so they should be fine. The SPI tank is probably the best option out there right now and had it been available I would have likely used it myself. Certainly my $150 tanksinc setup hasn't let me down yet (knock on wood) but having internal baffles would be a great improvement not to mention the SPI tank is much more bolt in. You say you don't have a tank anyways so $200 for a tank+$150 for the tanksinc and you already paid for over half the SPI tank.
Of course the Current Performance fuse box and the SPI tank aren't the cheapest options out there but they would save some headache and work for sure. The only reason I mention this is becuase I was on a tight budget on my project and I saved money where I could and a modified stock tank and modifying the truck fuse block are a couple of ways to do that I just wanted to give you a couple helpful products to use if they could fit in the budget. I don't want you to think there isn't another way is what I am saying I guess.
The current performance fuse block should make your fuse box unnecessary. I can't speak from experience since i used an F-body harness but a quick email to currentperformance should clear that up.
I believe I bought a couple fittings from Rockauto in the past and shipping was fast and I have heard nothing but good things from a couple others on here so they should be fine. The SPI tank is probably the best option out there right now and had it been available I would have likely used it myself. Certainly my $150 tanksinc setup hasn't let me down yet (knock on wood) but having internal baffles would be a great improvement not to mention the SPI tank is much more bolt in. You say you don't have a tank anyways so $200 for a tank+$150 for the tanksinc and you already paid for over half the SPI tank.
Of course the Current Performance fuse box and the SPI tank aren't the cheapest options out there but they would save some headache and work for sure. The only reason I mention this is becuase I was on a tight budget on my project and I saved money where I could and a modified stock tank and modifying the truck fuse block are a couple of ways to do that I just wanted to give you a couple helpful products to use if they could fit in the budget. I don't want you to think there isn't another way is what I am saying I guess.
I am not sure which tank brand is correct or if they are the same but whichever one has the internal pump should be the one I don't think anybody else is making that tank that I am aware of.
The current performance fuse block should make your fuse box unnecessary. I can't speak from experience since i used an F-body harness but a quick email to currentperformance should clear that up.
I believe I bought a couple fittings from Rockauto in the past and shipping was fast and I have heard nothing but good things from a couple others on here so they should be fine. The SPI tank is probably the best option out there right now and had it been available I would have likely used it myself. Certainly my $150 tanksinc setup hasn't let me down yet (knock on wood) but having internal baffles would be a great improvement not to mention the SPI tank is much more bolt in. You say you don't have a tank anyways so $200 for a tank+$150 for the tanksinc and you already paid for over half the SPI tank.
Of course the Current Performance fuse box and the SPI tank aren't the cheapest options out there but they would save some headache and work for sure. The only reason I mention this is becuase I was on a tight budget on my project and I saved money where I could and a modified stock tank and modifying the truck fuse block are a couple of ways to do that I just wanted to give you a couple helpful products to use if they could fit in the budget. I don't want you to think there isn't another way is what I am saying I guess.
The current performance fuse block should make your fuse box unnecessary. I can't speak from experience since i used an F-body harness but a quick email to currentperformance should clear that up.
I believe I bought a couple fittings from Rockauto in the past and shipping was fast and I have heard nothing but good things from a couple others on here so they should be fine. The SPI tank is probably the best option out there right now and had it been available I would have likely used it myself. Certainly my $150 tanksinc setup hasn't let me down yet (knock on wood) but having internal baffles would be a great improvement not to mention the SPI tank is much more bolt in. You say you don't have a tank anyways so $200 for a tank+$150 for the tanksinc and you already paid for over half the SPI tank.
Of course the Current Performance fuse box and the SPI tank aren't the cheapest options out there but they would save some headache and work for sure. The only reason I mention this is becuase I was on a tight budget on my project and I saved money where I could and a modified stock tank and modifying the truck fuse block are a couple of ways to do that I just wanted to give you a couple helpful products to use if they could fit in the budget. I don't want you to think there isn't another way is what I am saying I guess.
what is a tanksinc kit include or is there a site out there with the info on it???
666 that is odd...ha try www.tanksinc.com
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Verdad Gallardo Pist0lpete,
I do want to save money. But some things are just smart like your explanation of the tank/sump/pump. I bought the Spectra Premium tank from rockauto.com. I also bought the current performance fuse/relay block. A little ahead of myself, but I can't stand waiting on parts.
For a budget build I am already $3000 into the swap [$2994.36]. I expected to pay out at least $4000. I still need to buy a few things.....
1] radiator [bought car without rad]
2] fans
3] fuel pressure regulator/filter
4] fuel lines
5] front disc power brake conversion kit [don't need, but I want]
Does anyone have any input on what radiator to use and what fans to use along with anything else in the list?
Thanks
Rob
I do want to save money. But some things are just smart like your explanation of the tank/sump/pump. I bought the Spectra Premium tank from rockauto.com. I also bought the current performance fuse/relay block. A little ahead of myself, but I can't stand waiting on parts.
For a budget build I am already $3000 into the swap [$2994.36]. I expected to pay out at least $4000. I still need to buy a few things.....
1] radiator [bought car without rad]
2] fans
3] fuel pressure regulator/filter
4] fuel lines
5] front disc power brake conversion kit [don't need, but I want]
Does anyone have any input on what radiator to use and what fans to use along with anything else in the list?
Thanks
Rob
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: N. MS
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...-Radiator.html
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...atorBrckt.html
This is what I am trying, bought from my local GM dealer for about $140
Fab saddle brackets or JTRs may be adapted.
LS1 upper hose works great, and have# for lower but dont know application.
96 F*** mustang fan fits, needs mounting tabs.
Malcolm
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...atorBrckt.html
This is what I am trying, bought from my local GM dealer for about $140
Fab saddle brackets or JTRs may be adapted.
LS1 upper hose works great, and have# for lower but dont know application.
96 F*** mustang fan fits, needs mounting tabs.
Malcolm
Last edited by 67Mal; Feb 5, 2009 at 12:30 PM. Reason: adder
I can definitely understand that and if there is one thing that helps these swaps move more quickly its having all the parts in hand because one part may affect another part in a way you never imagine.
As for your needed parts:
1) I used the stock radiator because I had recently replaced it and it cools great but for some reason I have yet to figure out even after buying a new cap it still purges an ounce or so into the overflow between oil changes. That radiator 67mal posted looks interesting might be a better option. Or you can always splurge for an aftermarket radiator made for an LS1 swap.
2) I used some dual fans off of a 95ish dodge intrepid at pull-a-part and they fit not perfect height wise but width wise it was perfect and they move quite a bit of air.
30
3)Rockauto will probably have the cheapest price on the filter/regulator but your local parts store won't be much more. I paid too much for mine at the stealership.
4)From the tank to the filter(return and feed) I used some braided stainless line from Summit and some of the AN to quick disconnect fittings. From the filter to the engine I used a 3/8 fuel line off an early 90's silhoette sp? minivan at pull-a-part. The length happened to be just about perfect for where I mounted my filter on the fuel rail.
5) I did a stock setup on mine but you should seriously look into a C5 brake setup if you are planning to run 17" or larger wheels. It can be done for cheaper with used parts but check out kore3.com for an idea of what is required.
As for your needed parts:
1) I used the stock radiator because I had recently replaced it and it cools great but for some reason I have yet to figure out even after buying a new cap it still purges an ounce or so into the overflow between oil changes. That radiator 67mal posted looks interesting might be a better option. Or you can always splurge for an aftermarket radiator made for an LS1 swap.
2) I used some dual fans off of a 95ish dodge intrepid at pull-a-part and they fit not perfect height wise but width wise it was perfect and they move quite a bit of air.
30
3)Rockauto will probably have the cheapest price on the filter/regulator but your local parts store won't be much more. I paid too much for mine at the stealership.
4)From the tank to the filter(return and feed) I used some braided stainless line from Summit and some of the AN to quick disconnect fittings. From the filter to the engine I used a 3/8 fuel line off an early 90's silhoette sp? minivan at pull-a-part. The length happened to be just about perfect for where I mounted my filter on the fuel rail.
5) I did a stock setup on mine but you should seriously look into a C5 brake setup if you are planning to run 17" or larger wheels. It can be done for cheaper with used parts but check out kore3.com for an idea of what is required.
Hmmmmmm. Thanks for the load of info. I wonder if there is a setup that has the radiator and trans cooler together or in kit form. Or, maybe the trans cooler is something I can actually use from the truck. I just sware I remember the trans cooler lines going from trans to cooler to radiator back to trans. Maybe I am wrong. Will have to look when I get home.
Looks like I have some more homework.......
Pist0l, any links to the "LS1 swap radiators" you mentioned?
Malcom, what makes you go with the S10 rad?
I was just looking at a stock disk brake setup for now. C5 is Vette, correct?
Rob
Looks like I have some more homework.......
Pist0l, any links to the "LS1 swap radiators" you mentioned?
Malcom, what makes you go with the S10 rad?
I was just looking at a stock disk brake setup for now. C5 is Vette, correct?
Rob
I know you can find the swap radiators on ebay and probably summit as well. I don't have any links handy maybe I can dig something up this weekend. Usually you can buy a radiator that has a built in trans cooler in the bottom part and I am sure that is how the truck you are "harvesting" from is setup. It also sounds like it has an external cooler which makes sense on an HD truck. If you could re-use the external cooler in conjuction with a radiator cooler it would make for cooler temps in you tranny which is always a good thing.
As for the disk brakes C5 is a vette and they can be adapted to work on our chevelles using a drum hub in which the outside diameter is turned down a bit on a lathe some have even done it with a grinder. The price for C5 brakes is really reasonable especially if you can find some of the parts used (try searching ebay and the classifieds here and on corvetteforum). However, as I mentioned before they do require 17 inch or larger wheels so if those aren't planned then a stock setup is probably your best bang for the buck.
As for the disk brakes C5 is a vette and they can be adapted to work on our chevelles using a drum hub in which the outside diameter is turned down a bit on a lathe some have even done it with a grinder. The price for C5 brakes is really reasonable especially if you can find some of the parts used (try searching ebay and the classifieds here and on corvetteforum). However, as I mentioned before they do require 17 inch or larger wheels so if those aren't planned then a stock setup is probably your best bang for the buck.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: N. MS
Rob,
And more later pics
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/sh...0/ppuser/13247
The rad is for a 84-88 Corvette w/1&1/4" flues that JTR says cools V8 converted S10s very good. I figured it would cool a 5.3
I like the looks of a crossflow better.
Has internal trans cooler, I actually tried to find a place to mount an external
cooler that I bought, but an AC condensor leaves very little room for any thing else.
It was almost $100 cheaper than the original rads I priced.
I wanted to use all the "off the shelf" parts that I could.
Hope the pics help,
Malcolm
And more later pics
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/sh...0/ppuser/13247
The rad is for a 84-88 Corvette w/1&1/4" flues that JTR says cools V8 converted S10s very good. I figured it would cool a 5.3
I like the looks of a crossflow better.
Has internal trans cooler, I actually tried to find a place to mount an external
cooler that I bought, but an AC condensor leaves very little room for any thing else.
It was almost $100 cheaper than the original rads I priced.
I wanted to use all the "off the shelf" parts that I could.
Hope the pics help,
Malcolm
Just went through the finances. put all recent purchases into my spreadsheet. Not happy. I am going to get into full budget mode for a while. This makes me very interested in the '88 vette rad. I used the part number from the jtr site to check scoggin dickey for a price. they don't have it. gmpartsdirect.com say's it lists for $303 which is what my stealership will charge me. I see the JTR site selling it for $195 shipped. How do I get it at the price you got it for? rockauto.com has an SPI aftermarket rad for cheap [$130 i think] but the JTR say's the GM original is the best cooling. Wouldn't you think if the SPI rad could cool an 5.7L it could cool a 6.0?
Probably need stock disc brake conversion in the future too.
Thanks
Rob
Probably need stock disc brake conversion in the future too.
Thanks
Rob
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Houston
I just did a 6.0 243 heads with a 4L60e swap into my 79 Cutlass it was a bit of a headache at times and costed way more than I thought it would. I didnt read anywhere on what Wirring harness you'll be using to run the setup. I went with the painless harness, it worked out great though it ran me a good $600. I aslo went with a camaro oil pan for clearance on the crossmember and it worked great, keep in mind you have to change the oil dip stick and tube along with the oil pickup tube and crank splash plate for it all to work. Also you may run into clearance problems with the truck intake hitting the stock hood, I had to swap for the smaller and shorter LS6 intake because I didnt want to get a cowl hood.
79OldsCutty,
thanks, I have the harness from the truck the LQ4 came out of. I will mod myself. I already have an F-Body intake, rails, injectors and throttle body to go with the F-Body accessories I have converted to. My pan is a CTSV pan with all the parts that go with it.
"I didnt read anywhere on what Wirring harness you'll be using to run the setup."
It's all in the thread above.
Rob