what to use for a reliable 450hp
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
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what to use for a reliable 450hp well im thinking about joining the army reserves and what not, so my school is going to be paid for and im getting a bonus when i get back from basic training, i like planning ahead for things so i was wondering what i could do about reaching my 450rwhp reliably. one thing that i dont want to do is mess with fuel too much and i dont want to have to rely on a complete standalone
here are some things that crossed through my mind
2001+ ls1 with stage 3 heads, stock block
ls2 with blah blah blah (idk what mods that can get me to 450rwhp)
here are some things that crossed through my mind
2001+ ls1 with stage 3 heads, stock block
ls2 with blah blah blah (idk what mods that can get me to 450rwhp)
ls1 with any one of a dozen proven cams, a good set of heads like AFR or TFS and a FAST intake will get you 450rwhp.
can probably do it with a smaller cam on an ls2 due to more cubes.
no need for any kind of fuel system...stock ECM can handle much more than that.
realize its more than just engine work that makes a 450rwhp car "reliable"...its the rest of the drivetain too.
clutch, stall, trans, rear end, suspension
can probably do it with a smaller cam on an ls2 due to more cubes.
no need for any kind of fuel system...stock ECM can handle much more than that.
realize its more than just engine work that makes a 450rwhp car "reliable"...its the rest of the drivetain too.
clutch, stall, trans, rear end, suspension
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 20
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ls1 with any one of a dozen proven cams, a good set of heads like AFR or TFS and a FAST intake will get you 450rwhp.
can probably do it with a smaller cam on an ls2 due to more cubes.
no need for any kind of fuel system...stock ECM can handle much more than that.
realize its more than just engine work that makes a 450rwhp car "reliable"...its the rest of the drivetain too.
clutch, stall, trans, rear end, suspension
can probably do it with a smaller cam on an ls2 due to more cubes.
no need for any kind of fuel system...stock ECM can handle much more than that.
realize its more than just engine work that makes a 450rwhp car "reliable"...its the rest of the drivetain too.
clutch, stall, trans, rear end, suspension
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 28
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From: livonia, MI. detroit area
if you dont feel like the money is burning a hole in your pocket, what about waiting around a bit for the new camaro and going from there? yes, it's more expensive, and i dont know how much money you have to play with, but i think it would be a better investment.
otherwise, i'd go with a good cam, maybe a 228 or 232, some decent heads, and an LS6 or FAST intake. the FAST is going to bring you more horsepower, but they are on the expensive side brand new. this is all assuming you will have basic boltons like exhaust and a good air lid. dont waste your time with shorty or mid-length headers, go for only longtube. if you can find a deal on some 1 7/8'' headers, go for it. usually 1 3/4" will do the job, but for 450hp, i'd go with the bigger ones. you also need to make absolute certain that you get a good matched Y-pipe. cat backs are all personal choice. loudmouth flows good but can be too noisy after a while. the hooker aerochamber muffler is a good choice. or instead of all that, pay for a true dual setup. AND FOR THE LOVE OF GOD dont forget that a good tune on the car will bring the power up a good amount. especially with the heads, cam, and exhaust. all depends on your budget.
as stated before, dont forget to do some drivetrain upgrades as well. you'll want a nice, wide set of tires to put that power on the ground. if you want to hook like its an addiction, go for some drag radials. i know that the nitto nt555r drag radials are known for a good 15,000 miles on the street, and its still a drag tire. you need to pay special attention to your rear end too. with 450 horsepwer, a 9 inch or 12 bolt rear end is nearly a must. a clutch that can hold that much power is also crucial. are you planning on going with an auto or manual?
otherwise, i'd go with a good cam, maybe a 228 or 232, some decent heads, and an LS6 or FAST intake. the FAST is going to bring you more horsepower, but they are on the expensive side brand new. this is all assuming you will have basic boltons like exhaust and a good air lid. dont waste your time with shorty or mid-length headers, go for only longtube. if you can find a deal on some 1 7/8'' headers, go for it. usually 1 3/4" will do the job, but for 450hp, i'd go with the bigger ones. you also need to make absolute certain that you get a good matched Y-pipe. cat backs are all personal choice. loudmouth flows good but can be too noisy after a while. the hooker aerochamber muffler is a good choice. or instead of all that, pay for a true dual setup. AND FOR THE LOVE OF GOD dont forget that a good tune on the car will bring the power up a good amount. especially with the heads, cam, and exhaust. all depends on your budget.
as stated before, dont forget to do some drivetrain upgrades as well. you'll want a nice, wide set of tires to put that power on the ground. if you want to hook like its an addiction, go for some drag radials. i know that the nitto nt555r drag radials are known for a good 15,000 miles on the street, and its still a drag tire. you need to pay special attention to your rear end too. with 450 horsepwer, a 9 inch or 12 bolt rear end is nearly a must. a clutch that can hold that much power is also crucial. are you planning on going with an auto or manual?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 20
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if you dont feel like the money is burning a hole in your pocket, what about waiting around a bit for the new camaro and going from there? yes, it's more expensive, and i dont know how much money you have to play with, but i think it would be a better investment.
otherwise, i'd go with a good cam, maybe a 228 or 232, some decent heads, and an LS6 or FAST intake. the FAST is going to bring you more horsepower, but they are on the expensive side brand new. this is all assuming you will have basic boltons like exhaust and a good air lid. dont waste your time with shorty or mid-length headers, go for only longtube. if you can find a deal on some 1 7/8'' headers, go for it. usually 1 3/4" will do the job, but for 450hp, i'd go with the bigger ones. you also need to make absolute certain that you get a good matched Y-pipe. cat backs are all personal choice. loudmouth flows good but can be too noisy after a while. the hooker aerochamber muffler is a good choice. or instead of all that, pay for a true dual setup. AND FOR THE LOVE OF GOD dont forget that a good tune on the car will bring the power up a good amount. especially with the heads, cam, and exhaust. all depends on your budget.
as stated before, dont forget to do some drivetrain upgrades as well. you'll want a nice, wide set of tires to put that power on the ground. if you want to hook like its an addiction, go for some drag radials. i know that the nitto nt555r drag radials are known for a good 15,000 miles on the street, and its still a drag tire. you need to pay special attention to your rear end too. with 450 horsepwer, a 9 inch or 12 bolt rear end is nearly a must. a clutch that can hold that much power is also crucial. are you planning on going with an auto or manual?
otherwise, i'd go with a good cam, maybe a 228 or 232, some decent heads, and an LS6 or FAST intake. the FAST is going to bring you more horsepower, but they are on the expensive side brand new. this is all assuming you will have basic boltons like exhaust and a good air lid. dont waste your time with shorty or mid-length headers, go for only longtube. if you can find a deal on some 1 7/8'' headers, go for it. usually 1 3/4" will do the job, but for 450hp, i'd go with the bigger ones. you also need to make absolute certain that you get a good matched Y-pipe. cat backs are all personal choice. loudmouth flows good but can be too noisy after a while. the hooker aerochamber muffler is a good choice. or instead of all that, pay for a true dual setup. AND FOR THE LOVE OF GOD dont forget that a good tune on the car will bring the power up a good amount. especially with the heads, cam, and exhaust. all depends on your budget.
as stated before, dont forget to do some drivetrain upgrades as well. you'll want a nice, wide set of tires to put that power on the ground. if you want to hook like its an addiction, go for some drag radials. i know that the nitto nt555r drag radials are known for a good 15,000 miles on the street, and its still a drag tire. you need to pay special attention to your rear end too. with 450 horsepwer, a 9 inch or 12 bolt rear end is nearly a must. a clutch that can hold that much power is also crucial. are you planning on going with an auto or manual?
Trending Topics
"what kind of computer do i need to tune it, like i said i dont want a full standalone, i dont want to have to go get a tune because the weather changed, thats what i had to do with my old turboed cars"
the computers in these cars adjusts for changes in weather. you could have it tuned in 100* heat, and it will still drive great in 10* cold.
all you need to tune it is a laptop, and then tuning software like LS1edit, HPtuners or similar.
you don't need any kind of stand alone computer!!!
you've really got to do some more research on this. YES you can just slap the parts on, tune it and call it a day. but there are things to consider that will make the engine more reliable and possibly stronger.
if i wanted a realiable 450rwhp car i'd go for something like the TSP Torquer V2, futral F13 or 14, or possibly that new "el torro" cam that a few guys are running (230/230 .61x/.61x" lift).
then a set of either AFR 205 heads milled for good compression
top it off with a ported FAST 92/92
and get a good tune.
should EASILY make the hp goal...probably more like 460rwhp...and be pretty tame to drive around with a GOOD tune from dyno tuner.
since you have the engine out of the vehicle....pull the oil pan and replace the rod bolts. good insurance.
the computers in these cars adjusts for changes in weather. you could have it tuned in 100* heat, and it will still drive great in 10* cold.
all you need to tune it is a laptop, and then tuning software like LS1edit, HPtuners or similar.
you don't need any kind of stand alone computer!!!
you've really got to do some more research on this. YES you can just slap the parts on, tune it and call it a day. but there are things to consider that will make the engine more reliable and possibly stronger.
if i wanted a realiable 450rwhp car i'd go for something like the TSP Torquer V2, futral F13 or 14, or possibly that new "el torro" cam that a few guys are running (230/230 .61x/.61x" lift).
then a set of either AFR 205 heads milled for good compression
top it off with a ported FAST 92/92
and get a good tune.
should EASILY make the hp goal...probably more like 460rwhp...and be pretty tame to drive around with a GOOD tune from dyno tuner.
since you have the engine out of the vehicle....pull the oil pan and replace the rod bolts. good insurance.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 20
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"what kind of computer do i need to tune it, like i said i dont want a full standalone, i dont want to have to go get a tune because the weather changed, thats what i had to do with my old turboed cars"
the computers in these cars adjusts for changes in weather. you could have it tuned in 100* heat, and it will still drive great in 10* cold.
all you need to tune it is a laptop, and then tuning software like LS1edit, HPtuners or similar.
you don't need any kind of stand alone computer!!!
you've really got to do some more research on this. YES you can just slap the parts on, tune it and call it a day. but there are things to consider that will make the engine more reliable and possibly stronger.
if i wanted a realiable 450rwhp car i'd go for something like the TSP Torquer V2, futral F13 or 14, or possibly that new "el torro" cam that a few guys are running (230/230 .61x/.61x" lift).
then a set of either AFR 205 heads milled for good compression
top it off with a ported FAST 92/92
and get a good tune.
should EASILY make the hp goal...probably more like 460rwhp...and be pretty tame to drive around with a GOOD tune from dyno tuner.
since you have the engine out of the vehicle....pull the oil pan and replace the rod bolts. good insurance.
the computers in these cars adjusts for changes in weather. you could have it tuned in 100* heat, and it will still drive great in 10* cold.
all you need to tune it is a laptop, and then tuning software like LS1edit, HPtuners or similar.
you don't need any kind of stand alone computer!!!
you've really got to do some more research on this. YES you can just slap the parts on, tune it and call it a day. but there are things to consider that will make the engine more reliable and possibly stronger.
if i wanted a realiable 450rwhp car i'd go for something like the TSP Torquer V2, futral F13 or 14, or possibly that new "el torro" cam that a few guys are running (230/230 .61x/.61x" lift).
then a set of either AFR 205 heads milled for good compression
top it off with a ported FAST 92/92
and get a good tune.
should EASILY make the hp goal...probably more like 460rwhp...and be pretty tame to drive around with a GOOD tune from dyno tuner.
since you have the engine out of the vehicle....pull the oil pan and replace the rod bolts. good insurance.
its funny that you mention all that, im actually building the motor to put it in a 97 240sx, im not sure what you mean by rear end either, all my life i've driven 240's (im only 19) i plan on upgrading to a kazz 2 way lsd and getting axles rated for like 700hp or so. and a one piece steel driveshaft. but yeah, so heads, cam an intake with a good tune ( no "lids" required) i barely even knew what that ment till i looked it up. but yeah, can i just slap those things on and call it a day ? what kind of computer do i need to tune it, like i said i dont want a full standalone, i dont want to have to go get a tune because the weather changed, thats what i had to do with my old turboed cars
tsp = "texas speed and performance" www.texas-speed.com
torquer v2 - one of their cams...the Torquer Version 2 (232/234)
futral = futral motorsports www.futralmotorsports.com
F13 and F14 are 2 of their types of cams
torquer v2 - one of their cams...the Torquer Version 2 (232/234)
futral = futral motorsports www.futralmotorsports.com
F13 and F14 are 2 of their types of cams
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 20
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http://hinsonsupercars.com/s-4-nissan-240sx-95-98.aspx
i wish i had an rx7 sometime just by how sexy it looks, but there is no space in those things
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
tsp = "texas speed and performance" www.texas-speed.com
torquer v2 - one of their cams...the Torquer Version 2 (232/234)
futral = futral motorsports www.futralmotorsports.com
F13 and F14 are 2 of their types of cams
torquer v2 - one of their cams...the Torquer Version 2 (232/234)
futral = futral motorsports www.futralmotorsports.com
F13 and F14 are 2 of their types of cams
its not hard, check this out
http://hinsonsupercars.com/s-4-nissan-240sx-95-98.aspx
i wish i had an rx7 sometime just by how sexy it looks, but there is no space in those things
http://hinsonsupercars.com/s-4-nissan-240sx-95-98.aspx
i wish i had an rx7 sometime just by how sexy it looks, but there is no space in those things
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
my set up is very reliable beside the N20 of course.
reliable you need at a minimum,
suspension, 12 bolt rear end or better, if A4 built tranny heads, cam, all the supporting mods= about 6-7k.
Or you can look at putting a D1sc procharger on and calling it a day. again about 5-6k just for the kit, then you need a rear and a tranny to hold it.
reliable you need at a minimum,
suspension, 12 bolt rear end or better, if A4 built tranny heads, cam, all the supporting mods= about 6-7k.
Or you can look at putting a D1sc procharger on and calling it a day. again about 5-6k just for the kit, then you need a rear and a tranny to hold it.
i've heard good things about the stock casting cnc ported heads from texas speed also. they seem like they flow enough for a 346 and you can save some money and invest in other parts. they have assembled heads and cam packages for the same price as afr and trickflow heads alone.
ofcourse i''m not the expert what do you guys think about that combo
ofcourse i''m not the expert what do you guys think about that combo