Lots of good ideas. Thanks guys. I will run them with no tubes and use the dish soap trick. What is going to happen if I don't screw them now? How bad will it slip? The wheels are my buddies and he may not want me to screw them just yet. He wants to see it my set fits his 69 mustang.

The car will be around 2800 to 2900lbs. I ordered a "S" stiff. It was recommended by some other mustang racers. They said they felt more stable at high speed. I hope I did ok on that. I ran a 28x10.5S on my 3500lbs pig camaro and they felt great.

The car should pull low 1.4's by the time I get it working.

 

yes the stiff sidewall is the better choice. Don't soap the beads(part of tire that will sit against the rim) when mounting them and instead put that bead snot on there and it shouldn't slip with that light of a car. It's like glue or rtv for rim and tire bead contact points and really locks the tires in place without screws.

just to make it clearer, soap the crap out of the inside to stop leaks, i usually do 3 applications with 30 minutes in between and not much leakage then, but don't get any on the bead of the tire where it sits on the rim as this will cause slippage.

 

Were can I find this bead snot? Thanks for clearing that up. I see most people seal the bead with soapy water at the tire stores. I didn't know about doing the inside of the tire on a drag tire. good point.

 

I always mount my tires in my garage with dish soap. They usually don't leak any air.

 

You can also use teflon tape on teh threads of the screws. It helped (did not cure) leakage. Was alot better than with NO tape on teh threads.

Also, with my glide setup, which was a Fox Body Mustang 351 on spray, and I was at @ 2700-2800 lbs with me. I ran tires down to 10 LBS quite often, especially towards teh end of teh tires life. I made an EASY 300 passes on teh 28-10.5 tires on a 8" rim before I went to a 10" rim. @ 12-14 LBS, tires were more stable (no kidding right ) than at 10LBS, but @ 10 LBS, @ 150 MPH, car was not that bad. What I would do (and I could get about 75-100 passes on a set of tires before I would toss em. The first 50+ passes, I would run 12-14lbs, and once the tire started going away, I would air em down to @ 10-11 to help hook up. Again, I would prefer the 12-14 since it was more stable, but like I said, @ 10 lbs, was not that bad. My car was lighter than most of you guys FBodies for sure, but just wanted to throw that in.

 

28" on 8"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bz1bs...e=channel_page

 

Good info Gen414. Very similar weight car here. I will start with 13 to 14 psi and pay close attention to the tire patteren and how it leaves.

 

Also, build a routine, and stay consistent, that way if teh car does something it would not normally do, you can pick it out rather easily. This is my routine:

Pull up through box, couple/few feet PAST the water. I never spun tires in teh water, in fear of splashing water up into teh wheelwells.

Once track hand gave me OK to light 'em up, set line lock. Get tires going QUICK in first gear (auto) then grab second (high gear for a glide) QUICK, then left off line lock, roll with tires still spinning just a couple feet, let off throttle. Pull right into pre stage beams. Wait for other guy. Then stage, then let her go.

Basically, SHORT burnout, NO dry hop, no nonsense, no messing around.

Why I do not dry hop is: I was always told, your best launch is your FIRST launch. So, if you dry hop after a burnout, you just lost your bset launch. Now, I can not say that it is completely true, as I have no first hand knowledge as I NEVER dry hopped before. But, how many times do you see the Pro's (TF, Pro Stock, etc...) do a dry hop??? Exactly.

Why the short burnout? On a smaller tire (and a 28-10.5 is a small tire) it does not take much to get heat into them. Anything more, and your just melting the tire and throwing away good rubber and making it all greasy slick.

I am not saying my way is the only way, as it is just one way to do a burnout is all. But, hard to argue with a 1.29 60' on stock suspension. And that is what the car did. In fact, until now, I almost forgot about how stock it actually was at that time:
Stock kmember, trimmed up some for header clearance, stock control arms, 4 cylinder coil springs, and Lakewood 90/10 struts up front.
Out back, Southside lowers, STOCK uppers, with stock rubber bushings, stock coil springs cut 1 coil with air bag in PS and Lakewood 50/50 shocks, nd that was it. I mean, as simple as it got.
I did end up with Ladder Bars eventually, but....

 

NEVER leave the waterbox with an auto in any gear but 3rd.....leaving in 2nd is a good way to shock the trans and break it

 

Glide only has 2 gears

 

My buddie told me to start the burn out in 2nd and then 3rd before pulling forward. I will get my routine down and then stick with it. Good point. That way there is less to think about and I can focus on the launch and shifting.

 

Here is the 28 on the 8" rim mounted up on the car. It's a little tight.

 

Here is how I clearanced them.

 

 

 

just clearing it up for others who may think this applied to a TH350/400 type trans. Hate to see them pop a trans for not knowing that your post was glide specific.

 

Here is the body work just about finished up. It is ready for primer now. I will do that tonight.

 

How much space is there in the middle area on the rear section? Looks like it necks down and gets close to the slick there. Those 28s will grow a bit, just making sure enough clearance is there already.

 

It looks a little close were the cutting stops but I hammered it back a bit and tried floating it out with the mud. There is min of 1" all around the tire. I checked it with a ruler. The pics are shadowed a bit in some of them. Makes it look closer than it is.

 

What size tire is that? We put 28x9 ET Drags on 15x8 draglites on my buddies mustang and didn't have to clearance anything. It's a GT, the only thing that needed trimmed was the back plastic of the GT ground effect.