Not necessarily! I ordered an AC-Delco brand master cylinder from rockauto, & it arrived with no braided line, & no reservoir!

They're supposed to call me back today to let me know if it was supposed to come with one - but the dealership I called told me that the line & reservoir aren't available separately, only as part of the MC assembly...

I appreciate you listing the source & price for the line, that helps.

 

i used a kit form tanks inc. it comes with everything even the walbro pump, works quiet and preety easy to do.

 

Well, RockAuto just screwed me over on the clutch master & slave cylinder - so I'm sending everything that I ordered back. I'd planned on buying an alternator & a whole bunch of other parts for my swap from them as well, but after the jackass told me "Well, the contents of the kits are random" when I asked them to make it right (about 10 minutes ago), I'm not gonna give 'em another dime. Screw 'em.

Don't try to pee on my leg & tell me it's raining...

 

which pump did u get? i was thinking about a Accell external pump to get it running for starters.

 

the kit comes with a wlabro 255.

 

i looked at the Tank inc pumps but not sure which size i would need or if they come with fuel senders??? I found a Rock Auto tank for 451.99 Part number GM34BFI.

I could really use a picture of factory chevelle pedal mounting bracket. I bought 69 Chevelle pedals and i now know the difference between GTO vs Chevelle pedals. I have made a round spacer to keep the clutch pedal from rubbing the bracket. but i need to know if theres another spacer welded to the drivers side of the bracket.

 

My master cylinder is a Centerline brand. it didnt come with the line.

Heres some more pics of slow progress.

Tore out all carpet and rear seat for the T56 Floor trimming. Ive seen alot of cutting a huge hole and spacing around the floor to move it up and ive seen it split down the center and filling the hole with a T shaped plate. What the best/easiest way to do it?

 

chevelle vs gto pedal assys

I made the little spacers that are on the side of the chevelle assembly. not sure if they are exact width but slidding everything together with the bushings it must be very close. I havnt drilled my auto bracket out yet.
I havnt decided to weld them to the assembly like the chevelle style or just have them loose with bushings on the assembly like the Pontiac style.

On a episode of Muscle car i think it was with the 67 Lemans they restore and swap in a 4speed with a gearvendors overdrive. They use pedals from a Chevelle and cut the left side of the Pontiac bracket off because of the clutch pedal interference and weld a extra plate on the side for strenght against the clutch pedal bending the bracket.

 

Machined Drum Spindles

Chevelle pedals with homemade spacers

68 Lemans brake bracket

 

looking good!

 

Got my edelbrock plates, some polyurathane engine mounts and trying to locate some frame stands for a chevelle.
Bought disk brake kit from speedway. for stock spindle
came with rotors, calipers, pads, all the bolts and hardware, backing plates, and caliper mounts.

 

I cut the tunnel out and started to notch my crossmember. I had problems with my first fit. I wanted to set it in with the frame stands bolted to the mounts and see how far off the engine stands were. and if there was still access to the bell housing bolts from under the car with the engine that far back. But I ran into problems with wiring harness in the way, pan hitting, alternator hitting.

 

update from last weekend

 

more pics

 

i havnt updated for a while. What I DO have done is my gas clutch and brake pedals are fabricated and painted going to hang them tomorrow. I made a clutch stop and my brake master is adjustable so it looks really good with the pedals even and low. I welded the Fbody pedal tab onto the side of my A body pedal for offset inline with the throttle cable hole. i just enlarged the throttle cable hole to alow the Fbody cable to clip in. It felt pretty good to put the seat in and to feel all the action in the pedals (even w/out hydralics/lines).

I ran into a big snag with my chevelle crossmember i cut the tab off and a friend of mine (really good fabricator) flipped the tab over and welded it. when i got it home and installed with a TH400 transmission mount. I could barely get the yoke it probably less than a half inch between the yoke and a body brace. We welded it too high on the tube. Im certain the driveshaft would of hit. so i pulled it back out and cut it off again and have been waiting on my friend to add the material ive cut off and weld the tab back on.

Im looking to smooth my firewall or at least close the heater core, outlet, and fan hole off. Once i get the crossmember in and the engine mounts and angles were i want??? so i can pull everything out and drill the new holes in the crossmember. I also am going to clean the frame so it can get some paint on it.

I pulled the tank, rear shocks, and springs out. Surprisingly the sound deaden material and the rear upper spring isolators were STILL there they crumbled once they fell out. Looking to sell all 4 shocks and the tank. I have new shocks for it and need to get a caprice fuel tank. Ive worked on the wiring some but I keep putting it off finding other things to try and finish.

I really want to just get the car rolling again. I have cut and smoothed some of the upper control arm mount to accept the SPC upper control arms. Going to run their springs also. I figure when i get all that im going to shim the front up. With the SPC lower control arms claim to lower the car 1" and the springs another 1" i think it will be too low for me.

I have been helping a friend put together a 71 AMC Javelin hes restoring at work. He got alot of the parts powder coated for 200 bucks a batch. I really liked the way the parts came out and i was thinking of what i want powder coated. Bumper brackets, Spindles, steering arm, maybe hideaway headlights, wheels? I dont know how well that would work on a wheel.

 

heres some pics of what i have accomplished

 

heres more

 

finished modifying the clutch pedal and the throttle cable hole and pedal. Test fitting the crossmember the second time tomorrow hopefully.

 

I am currently doing this same swap with my 68 GTO. Lucky for me I have the clutch pedal already, but I wanted to bring to your attention that, from the factory, there is quite a big distance between the brake and the gas. This makes heel-toe downshifts near impossible. I am going to modify my gas pedal arm to remedy this. Good luck with the swap, and thanks ahead of time for the knowledge I will likely borrow from your experience.

 

ive looked at your build i wish my Pontiac was in as good as shape as yours. A friend of mine has several 69 gtos and i spent alot of time measuring and looking at the pedals on it. Before modifying my pedals. my brake booster is adjustable and i was modifying the pedals to allow heal toe and height of the clutch pedal. I still have alot of adjustment left for the brake pedal. I dont like moving my knee past the steering wheel for every shift. The F body master cylinder doesnt need near the throw the old linkage does. That helped alot. I basically made the pedals hang lower basically hang straight down. bringing them closer to the gas pedal. I test fitted them without any lines hooked up and with the seat. I think its going to work great.