68 Lemans LS1 T56 swap
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 122
Likes: 1
From: Richmond, VA
Thanks for the compliment.
I have a few questions for you. Did you weld the chevelle frame brackets to the crossmember? I did not see any bolt heads in your pictures. Also, how did you make sure that the engine was square in the frame? Did you simply use the frame rails as a reference? I am trying to make my plan right now, so any advice that you have would be awesome. Also, you mentioned notching the crossmember for the oil pan, but I do not see that you cut any material away. Would you comment?
Thanks!
I have a few questions for you. Did you weld the chevelle frame brackets to the crossmember? I did not see any bolt heads in your pictures. Also, how did you make sure that the engine was square in the frame? Did you simply use the frame rails as a reference? I am trying to make my plan right now, so any advice that you have would be awesome. Also, you mentioned notching the crossmember for the oil pan, but I do not see that you cut any material away. Would you comment?
Thanks!
i have started notching the backside of the front cross member. its not very pretty.. alot of swaps have shown this isnt needed. I want to use the Fbody air compressor eventually. so I need to move my engine a little farther forward to accomplish that. its easier to hide on the back side.
Theres no bolts because the frame stands are sitting on the front crossmember. Im waiting on my welder to finish up my transmission crossmember. I plan on marking the holes, pulling it back out, drilling them and then i can bolt it into place. Once i have the crossmember in place and the driveline centered and with correct angles.
Actually i think one bolt hole actually lines up. but im going to use a angle finder and and level to double check.
The Edelbrock mounts are designed to bolt and at position the LS within 3/8" of where a small block would sit using the same motor mounts and stands. but they dont tell you what accessories (too many options) or oil pan to use. Well they do recommend a aftermarket steel pan. With Fbody pan and accessorys the holes dont line up for the chevelle mounts. The pan requires the engine to go farther back to drop in. and the alternator vs steering box limits the room to slide forward. it makes a big difference on the driveline angle how close the alternator pulley is to the steering box. But the edelbrock mounts are really thick which should elminate the problems ive seen where others have fabricated their own mounts and having to raise the engine to clear the steering linkage.
Theres no bolts because the frame stands are sitting on the front crossmember. Im waiting on my welder to finish up my transmission crossmember. I plan on marking the holes, pulling it back out, drilling them and then i can bolt it into place. Once i have the crossmember in place and the driveline centered and with correct angles.
Actually i think one bolt hole actually lines up. but im going to use a angle finder and and level to double check.
The Edelbrock mounts are designed to bolt and at position the LS within 3/8" of where a small block would sit using the same motor mounts and stands. but they dont tell you what accessories (too many options) or oil pan to use. Well they do recommend a aftermarket steel pan. With Fbody pan and accessorys the holes dont line up for the chevelle mounts. The pan requires the engine to go farther back to drop in. and the alternator vs steering box limits the room to slide forward. it makes a big difference on the driveline angle how close the alternator pulley is to the steering box. But the edelbrock mounts are really thick which should elminate the problems ive seen where others have fabricated their own mounts and having to raise the engine to clear the steering linkage.
sitting in the sun almost 2 years later.
all SPC front suspension. Stage 2+ uppers, SPC tubular lowers, SPC springs ft and rear. drum to disc front conversion.
need to put shocks on and get a center link and brake caliper bolts.
all SPC front suspension. Stage 2+ uppers, SPC tubular lowers, SPC springs ft and rear. drum to disc front conversion.
need to put shocks on and get a center link and brake caliper bolts.
Last edited by the450r; Mar 28, 2010 at 10:14 PM. Reason: forgot
i ended up ditching the edelbrock mounts (now for sale!!) and i got it set in with generic mounts from speedway motors, and bolted the chevelle stands on backwards. only clearance problem i have is with the ac mount to the adaptor mounts. im going to have to pull my engine back out and have the cuts i made in teh crossmember welded shut. i installed a used Pro 5.0 shifter and installed the modified harness. working on fuse box wiring now and i need to find a correct sender for my b body tank and racetronix pump.
Not sure what I had to do.. but I only recall that I did have to mod a few things, I think I recall swtiching the connector, but bottom line, if you can get it all to connect and to fit, then it should work.. This is just part of hot rodding!...
Wish I had taken pictures of it, but that was like almost 5 years ago..
Wish I had taken pictures of it, but that was like almost 5 years ago..
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Verdad Gallardo has anyone tryed to ground the fuel enable request wire between the bcm and the pcm? i was thinking the VATS is read in the bcm and it grounds the wire telling the pcm it can engage the pump.
headers finally. some tight spots but i dont think there will be a problem. tie rods dont hit turning left but hit turning right. the toes not set correctly probably why its not even. the headers are alot lower than i expected.
TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 458
Likes: 0
From: Allen, TX
Very Cool! I just came across this thread while looking for parts/ problems/ ideas for the swap I'm planning, LS in a '70 Lemans. It's been one of those "one day" projects and I think it's time. Gotta finish the new 408 for the truck first though lol.
Lookin good!
subscribing.
Lookin good!
subscribing.
i just enlarged the hole in the top of the fuel sender so the hose and clamp could fit through easily. figured out the safety pin that came in the kid was to remove the terminals from one connector and switch them to another. i need to get the tank mounted, the trans tunnel fabbed and the firewall smoothed. im not that much of a body guy.
im not looking forward to pulling the motor/trans again. but i have to fix my bad idea. but if i can get that done when it goes back in its staying in and it wont take alot to get it running.
im not looking forward to pulling the motor/trans again. but i have to fix my bad idea. but if i can get that done when it goes back in its staying in and it wont take alot to get it running.
im getting ready to pull the motor and trans back out tonight.
trans tunnel and cross member a big road block right now
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...r-choppin.html
open to suggestions
trans tunnel and cross member a big road block right now
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...r-choppin.html
open to suggestions
got ahold of some s10 rear disc brakes. i think i have about 160 bucks in it all together.
$25 each on the ebrake bracket, cable, caliper, caliper mount and pads.
$25 each on new rear rotors.
$26 each on new bearings and lock ring.
theres a few write ups on various sites but they all are horrible. expecially if your doing it to a BOP rear axle. wouldnt have to do the bearing and lock ring but shims need to be put in front of the bearing behind the retainer to make up gap created by the extra thick ebrake bracket. and the only way to remove those bearings is to destroy them. one site pressed the ebrake bracket between the axle and the bearing retainer which would work if u shimmed the bearing in and use washers to space the caliper bracket back far enough it would clear the rotor. longer wheel studs are needed because the rotor is thicker than a drum and some write ups grind out the center of the rotor and some grind the center of the axle flange. mine fits fine with the rotors reversed but when installing finally there is a gap. im going to try taking some off the rotor because the axle is installed now. just dont want to get out of round on the center of the rotor or it will be impossible to turn on a brake lathe later. im still testing and trail fitting but ill get some pics.
$25 each on the ebrake bracket, cable, caliper, caliper mount and pads.
$25 each on new rear rotors.
$26 each on new bearings and lock ring.
theres a few write ups on various sites but they all are horrible. expecially if your doing it to a BOP rear axle. wouldnt have to do the bearing and lock ring but shims need to be put in front of the bearing behind the retainer to make up gap created by the extra thick ebrake bracket. and the only way to remove those bearings is to destroy them. one site pressed the ebrake bracket between the axle and the bearing retainer which would work if u shimmed the bearing in and use washers to space the caliper bracket back far enough it would clear the rotor. longer wheel studs are needed because the rotor is thicker than a drum and some write ups grind out the center of the rotor and some grind the center of the axle flange. mine fits fine with the rotors reversed but when installing finally there is a gap. im going to try taking some off the rotor because the axle is installed now. just dont want to get out of round on the center of the rotor or it will be impossible to turn on a brake lathe later. im still testing and trail fitting but ill get some pics.
i became a member of performanceyears forum where someone did a disc brake swap on a 70 gto. but im not getting any replys for help on my caliper mount issue.
my car is actually in the body shop this week. smoothing the firewall and welding the trans tunnel back in. i got the gas tank halfway installed before we loaded it up. if i got it back this weekend i would be surprised but it would be awesome so i could get the engine back in over the long weekend.
my car is actually in the body shop this week. smoothing the firewall and welding the trans tunnel back in. i got the gas tank halfway installed before we loaded it up. if i got it back this weekend i would be surprised but it would be awesome so i could get the engine back in over the long weekend.
edelbrock header instructions do say the starter has to be removed to install the passenger side BUT my only complaint is they didnt mention you cant put the starter back on if you bolt the header down. one of the tubes hangs about a inch below the outside long starter bolt. if u installed the bolt in the starter first maybe but it didn't work for me. not real easy with no bolts in it either. i had to un bolt the header and let it hang off the spark plugs and dipstick tube while i fished the bolt in.
does anyone torque the header bolts to the head? i couldnt find any specs on the forum and just snugged them down.
another problem i found was i bought a auto-meter adapter for the oil pressure and water temp. So when i installed the water temp adapter my aftermarket gauge sending unit wouldn't fit through the the hole in the adapter. i thought i could remedy it by drilling out the adapter to accept the sending unit. i was screwing it into the head and just as the crush copper washer crushed and it felt seated it broke off. i got it out easily but i definatly weakened the adapter by drilling it out. i might try this again and try less torque but i didnt think it would have sealed.
there are two adapters from autometer now for coolant adapters 1822259 says "This Auto Meter water temperature sender is for short sweep Auto Meter gauges. It has a smaller nose that will allow an easy fit into the 1822277 sender adapter."
does anyone torque the header bolts to the head? i couldnt find any specs on the forum and just snugged them down.
another problem i found was i bought a auto-meter adapter for the oil pressure and water temp. So when i installed the water temp adapter my aftermarket gauge sending unit wouldn't fit through the the hole in the adapter. i thought i could remedy it by drilling out the adapter to accept the sending unit. i was screwing it into the head and just as the crush copper washer crushed and it felt seated it broke off. i got it out easily but i definatly weakened the adapter by drilling it out. i might try this again and try less torque but i didnt think it would have sealed.
there are two adapters from autometer now for coolant adapters 1822259 says "This Auto Meter water temperature sender is for short sweep Auto Meter gauges. It has a smaller nose that will allow an easy fit into the 1822277 sender adapter."