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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 11:24 PM
  #41  
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what class do you run? can't say I've noticed your car at dinwiddie or MIR. I take it your name is Mike?

Mike, I may be 100% wrong. I've been wrong before. I'm going to be wrong again. Its a part of life. Im just sharing with others what I've learned and found what works. Thats what this place is about right? To share info and help each other? You were looking for some help, I tried to help by understanding how your going about measuring your IC. Your giving people a bunch of numbers in the first post and no way of saying how you came up with the numbers? What good is a bunch of numbers if I cant reverse engineer it and figure out where your suspension points are. Why can't I get you to understand this? Your as hard headed as my girlfriend. You guys would be a perfect match.

So lets start over..... Talk to me like I know nothing about a torque arm. Whats this magic formula you have to come up with those numbers? I'm trying to help you Mike. I knocked 19 thousandths off a customers car last week in an 1/8th mile. I may be able to help you out too if you give me something I can work with. I charge double the amount for people with attitudes BTW.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 03:33 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by mdacton
Darren..... think about the 3rd link in these cars.....IC is not fixed.
3rd link is only an upper link. IC can be moved up or down forward or back just like anything else.
The torque arm needs to be doing all of the work in these cars. The control arms should just be along for the ride. Point them in the wrong direction and you will make a mess of things. Everything is in the wrong place to compare this set-up to a three/four link.

I could only get the first video to work. I really didn't see anything to get me excited.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 05:49 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by promod1955
what class do you run? can't say I've noticed your car at dinwiddie or MIR. I take it your name is Mike?

Mike, I may be 100% wrong. I've been wrong before. I'm going to be wrong again. Its a part of life. Im just sharing with others what I've learned and found what works. Thats what this place is about right? To share info and help each other? You were looking for some help, I tried to help by understanding how your going about measuring your IC. Your giving people a bunch of numbers in the first post and no way of saying how you came up with the numbers? What good is a bunch of numbers if I cant reverse engineer it and figure out where your suspension points are. Why can't I get you to understand this? Your as hard headed as my girlfriend. You guys would be a perfect match.

So lets start over..... Talk to me like I know nothing about a torque arm. Whats this magic formula you have to come up with those numbers? I'm trying to help you Mike. I knocked 19 thousandths off a customers car last week in an 1/8th mile. I may be able to help you out too if you give me something I can work with. I charge double the amount for people with attitudes BTW.
I'll let you school me if you want? LOL...

If what you're saying is true, then why do several manufactures offer torque arms with adjustable vertical settings for the front? If what you're saying is true, then adjusting the front of the torque arm up, or down, wouldn't have any effect at all. Correct? Here's an example of what I'm talking about. BTW, I have no idea what to believe at this point and I'm just trying to learn like anyone else.

My car is lowered almost 2" and it has a Spohn tunnel mounted torque arm. I fabricated some new rotator plates for the front so that I could move the front of my t/a upward toward the tunnel. My thought process was that since the car is lowered, the front of the t/a needs to be raised back up. I did this because after reviewing my videos in slow motion, the tires were being hit really hard at first (driving them downward), then unloading almost immediately. After raising the t/a up about 1.5", and after reviewing more video, the tires weren't being hit nearly as hard and the launches were more controllable. Since then, I've installed Strange drag shocks in the front and now I've moved the t/a back down one hole (about .75"), and set the rear (comp engineering) shocks on full firm on compression (70/30). I'm hoping to get the tires to plant hard again (but not AS hard as previous) and that the added front drag shocks, and stiffer compression on the rear shocks will help keep the tires planted longer.

BTW, this is a 6sp car and I'm currently launching around 5k rpm and still spinning my way to 1.66 - 1.70 60' times. Would love to hit mid 1.5's.

Mike
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by GIZMO
I could only get the first video to work. I really didn't see anything to get me excited.
Hits the tire then unloads it spins through first...not badbut I lose almost .1 in my 60'

I didnt post them to get you excited, I posted them to try and figure this out.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 07:37 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6

If what you're saying is true, then why do several manufactures offer torque arms with adjustable vertical settings for the front? If what you're saying is true, then adjusting the front of the torque arm up, or down, wouldn't have any effect at all.
I see this a lot as well and I'm not sure why they do that. Selling tool maybe? I played with that adjustment on a wolfe torque arm and it made 0 difference in how the car left. I am going to look into this further with a faster car soon though and see if I can get any change in it. I think I may see a slight change but not because its making the IC longer/shorter.Some killer hardcore road course cars with torque arms I have seen dont have an adjustment area there. Nor did the pro stock car if I recall correctly.

Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6
I did this because after reviewing my videos in slow motion, the tires were being hit really hard at first (driving them downward), then unloading almost immediately.
I see you changed shocks later on... but this sounds like a shock valving issue.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 06:48 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by mdacton
Hits the tire then unloads it spins through first...not badbut I lose almost .1 in my 60'

I didnt post them to get you excited, I posted them to try and figure this out.

From seeing the video I would look more at shock settings.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 06:53 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by promod1955
I see this a lot as well and I'm not sure why they do that. Selling tool maybe? I played with that adjustment on a wolfe torque arm and it made 0 difference in how the car left. I am going to look into this further with a faster car soon though and see if I can get any change in it. I think I may see a slight change but not because its making the IC longer/shorter.Some killer hardcore road course cars with torque arms I have seen dont have an adjustment area there. Nor did the pro stock car if I recall correctly.



I see you changed shocks later on... but this sounds like a shock valving issue.


The adjustment holes in our arm isnt just a selling tool. We have been building this arm since early 95( we have made upgrades and revisions as we learned). I have found after 1000s of passes on t/a equipped cars that this suspension isnt like a 3/4 link or a ladder bar. 90% of the info about this suspension is for road racing cars so you throw that out the window.

If you move the front of the t/a up in the car then it will hit the tire quickly but it will unload the tire faster. Lowering the arm will pick up more weight and keep the tire planted longer. I dont get into all the math formulas for this style suspension because the theory isnt right.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 07:24 AM
  #48  
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[QUOTE=MADMAN;12339721] Lowering the arm will pick up more weight and keep the tire planted longer. QUOTE]

No wonder I put my car on the bumper last year... I lowered the frotn of my bmr tq arm down on the bmr th400 crossmemebr with relocation.

N/a the car liked it, it stopped spinning 5 feet after I left when I did it, so I lowered it some more for the start of last season figuring that if it helped n/a I would need to lower it more to help get the car to stay planted.

Probably went too low with it (3rd hole from bottom, n/a I ran it 1 hole higher)

Limiters did stop it from standing up, maybe try tightening the front end up on the limiters (went 1 hole looser then you suggested after trying them where you suggested starting) and lowering the tq arm down another hole, unless it starts spinning at the hit, in that case raise the tq arm back up.

Make sense?

(I'll pick your brain Brian when I order the racecraft front end, hopefully end of this month)
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 08:43 AM
  #49  
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Brian, for those who have your torque arm, or for those of us who may be working on a car with your torque arm, can you describe how to find IC. Pictures for people like me who are slow learners would be a huge plus.

I'm curious to see your take on it.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
I have found after 1000s of passes on t/a equipped cars that this suspension isnt like a 3/4 link or a ladder bar.
Nice to see that you have changed your tune on this subject.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by promod1955
Brian, for those who have your torque arm, or for those of us who may be working on a car with your torque arm, can you describe how to find IC. Pictures for people like me who are slow learners would be a huge plus.

I'm curious to see your take on it.
bump.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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subscribed.... was hoping madman would chime in...
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 08:42 AM
  #53  
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if this is the case i'll probably have one of his TA's on my car this winter.... bump
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ty_ty13
if this is the case i'll probably have one of his TA's on my car this winter.... bump
Me too.......This Spohn arm is killing me
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Reboot
Me too.......This Spohn arm is killing me
me too, just does not have the features I want.....good pc. I just want something better
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ty_ty13
subscribed.... was hoping madman would chime in...
Madman's at the Shootout in Memphis, if you're up there you should swing by and chat with him.
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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maybe this will help you guys out a little

https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-...nt-center.html

Last edited by styoung; Oct 18, 2009 at 09:57 PM. Reason: fix link
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 02:20 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by styoung
maybe this will help you guys out a little

https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-...nt-center.html
lol!!
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by styoung
maybe this will help you guys out a little

https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-...nt-center.html
I see in that thread that a GM suspension engineer backs up the information I posted, which also backs up what I've found to work at the track.
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 05:54 PM
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I'd play with your front shock setting and slow it down on the compression side.

How does this work on the hose out of the hole?
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