LSx (L33) / T56 in lightweight kit car..
Yah, I forgot, classifieds you need 6 months or 200 posts. Although, if you see an something you like, I think that you can still PM or e-mail members. PM's & e-mails usually get a faster response than posting in a sales thread, anyway.
I'm avoiding headers. I hate the headers that are on my car. Stainless would be ok, but thats expensive. This is all a budget build. I really like the LS7 manifolds, but I suppose even the standard C5 or C6 manifolds would be better than the truck's, and put the exit of the exhaust in a better position for my application.
6 mo and 200 posts.. hmm. Well, it is what it is, thank you LS1-450 for letting me know.
Since I can't post there yet,
WTB: F-body T56 w/ reasonable miles and good shifting. Need bellhousing, clutch setup, hydraulics, pedals, etc... if anyone has them laying around
As stated, all you have to do is to PM or e-mail the member selling the part you want. You are able to send PM's & e-mail's. Just left click on the members handle (name) & the options PM, e-mail, etc. will pop up. Just click on "send ... a private message," then make your offer or discuss purchasing the part for sale. The member will then return your PM.
In regards to the pre-oiler (Accusump), all I can say is that more than a few LSX engines have suffered oil starvation failures on road courses.
Well, my motor is supposed to finally ship on monday, hopefully see it around wednesday.. Then the real fun begins.
Could be.......Vettes do have independant rear suspensions, better brakes, shocks & springs & are better balanced. Where as F-body's have a solid rear axle......etc.. Vettes w/ compitent drivers do very well on our local road courses.
All I can say is that there are two main issues, oil starvation & lack of oil viscocity. Most people don't realize that without an oil cooler, oil temps can reach in excess of 300*F during an open track day 20 minute session. Most street engines, including the LSX, are designed to run near a 70 viscocity @ 100*C, 212*F. So, the street oils basically break down thinner than water @ the higher temps. Further, the stock water (coolant) temp gauge never tells the driver that the OIL is too hot & the owner never knows it, then wonders how his engine failed. I have seen my water gauge never go above 230*F when the oil was 280* F before adding the oil cooler. This is much higher than the standard 20-25*F higher oil temps than water temps while street driving. So, it's either oil temp/viscocity or oil starvation & could be both that cause road course engine failures. I use 15 or 20W-50 racing oil (road course only, not street), a pre-oiler, oil cooler & stand alone oil temp, water temp & oil pressure gauges to be safe.
LS1 intake manifold on the way, LS7 exhaust manifolds on the way, cable throttle body on the way.. so those will be next to install. Need to get a better book as well, there's a GMPP book out there somewhere for swaps thats supposed to be good.
Any f-body stuff laying in somebody's garage? :smile: I'll be watching the classifieds!
Alternator bracket, powersteering bracket, crank pulley, alternator, steering pump, and steering cooler on the way...
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
In the meantime, does it matter which MAF I use, since I'm using the truck harness and pcm? O2 sensors, same question? --> Looks like either, just make sure I tell the guy who's flashing my PCM which I use.
Last edited by spartanv8; Nov 9, 2009 at 02:50 PM.
cheers,
Jesse
I'll keep looking on car-part, see what turns up. Didn't see any in this forum's for sale section.. Been checking ebay and craigslist as well, we'll see.
Anyone that has bought a motor that had fire damage care to share their experience? I suppose it really just depends on the severity of the fire..
Thanks!
I tried low balling them on a 06 SSR 4L65E ( they stated it was from a 6.0L ) they rejected and lowered their origanal price like $50.00 LOL. I walked away. About 10 days later they had their 30% off sale. I bought it then . Alot closer to my low ball offer than their counter offer.
slightly off topic
Your car weighing 1600lb, and with engine mounted behind the front axel line, I don't think you will need power steering, this could be extra weight you could save.
As a comparison, my westfield seight currently has a rover v8, with 10inch steering wheel and quick rack and 205/50/15 tyres does not need it.
With the LS2 engine (not yet fitted) have an electric water pump, and plan to have a belt just between crank and alternator.
My belief is these engines only have a tensioner on the belt, because the belt is so long. If belt will stretch by a percentage, on a long belt that can be a noticeable movement, but on a short run should be negligable.
To save further weight, will be fitting a small daihatsu charade alternator as I have very limited electrics to support.
I will be using a T56 gearbox, but it is so big and heavy would investigate alternatives.
Jimbo, I gave up on all the local places here and bought a motor from a place called Rhine Auto in Wisconsin. They were super friendly, and even with shipping it was way cheaper.. go figure
As a comparison, my westfield seight currently has a rover v8, with 10inch steering wheel and quick rack and 205/50/15 tyres does not need it.
thanks,
Jesse
Is the f-body pan any good? It has a windage tray, but no baffles?
Truck pan is just way too deep, I'd be dragging it on the ground.
Andy1, Suspension is fully adjustable =) I'll stick that website in my favorites for next time, thanks!
Next hunt will be for a decent Ls1 T56 swap...

Can see progress in the updates section on my website, although I haven't found much time to update that either sadly..
www.spartanv8.com
Thanks,
Jesse
Bilster - I agree, may upgrade to that sometime soon... batwing pan will have to do for now. Thanks!








