royal purple oil ?'s
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
From: indianapolis
royal purple oil ?'s do not have time to search at work but needed to know if anyone is running royal purple if so what weight and how much is needed? I usually take to dealer but had issues last time so going to start doing it myself. I am running royal purple in the rear and am working on switching all the fluids over. car is 98 formula thanks.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 275
Likes: 1
From: TX
I run Royal Purple also, they make great products. I'd run their 5W-30 for the motor( I believe it takes 5.5 quarts) its probley pretty cold up in indianapolis so the 10W-30s viscosity is probley just a tade to think for the cold weather and start ups, im not 100% sure on the 10W-30 as i live in texas and it don't get that cold like up there. If ur formulas a manual id put Royal Purples Syncromax in it or an ATF, either one works fine. I went with the Syncromax, (4 quarts for a manual). If its an automatic they make a ATF fluid thats for Auto's. (Not sure how much for the Automatics its in ur service manual- should be under capacities or specifications).
5w-30 is recommended mostly because of EPA gains. 5w-30 will very very slightly give you higher fuel economy (less thick=less resistance), but 10w-30 will give you more protection as the oil is in your engine longer (certain oil additives do wear down as the oil is sheared/compressed, etc). Once again tho, the differences are very small. I run 10w-30 in my oldsmobile even when it gets to freezing, doesnt cause a problem, but i run 5w-30 once i change my oil when it gets to October/November just to be safe on those 10 degree days 
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12 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 407
Likes: 1
From: Rockwall, TX
I'm not nocking RP or Amsoil, They are great products, this is just info to help you make a better decision.
API rates the quality of oils for wear protection etc. The state of the art right now for wear protection is API-SM for automotive oils. The S signifies a gasoline engine and the second letter is the level. The further down the alphabet the better. Conventional oils typically don't go past L and the better synthetics should be rated M. API rated oils will have the round seal from the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE).
Some of your all out racing oils are not API rated, this does not mean they are not great oils, just that they are not tested to meet API standards. You don't need a lot of high milleage protection for a nitro motor that gets an oil change every 1/2 mile.
On a street motor, you're not going to get a whole lot more protection from one SM rated oil to the next, but prices vary drastically.
API rates the quality of oils for wear protection etc. The state of the art right now for wear protection is API-SM for automotive oils. The S signifies a gasoline engine and the second letter is the level. The further down the alphabet the better. Conventional oils typically don't go past L and the better synthetics should be rated M. API rated oils will have the round seal from the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE).
Some of your all out racing oils are not API rated, this does not mean they are not great oils, just that they are not tested to meet API standards. You don't need a lot of high milleage protection for a nitro motor that gets an oil change every 1/2 mile.
On a street motor, you're not going to get a whole lot more protection from one SM rated oil to the next, but prices vary drastically.
LOL^^^ Btw the thinner the better on start up and if you going to spend that kind of money on oil don't waste it on RP and their marketing BS. Buy German Castrol which has been a proven performer for our cars.
nice one smart ***, have you ever used it before... Because i have used it since the car had 30xxx miles on it and, tore the engine down it was so clean no ware. I was just very happy with it. Also It always felt like it ran a little bit better then other oils.
Alot of mixed reviews on royal purple...by there advertising you would think its the god of oils.... when u have time try a search here. Bobtheoilguy.com also has alot of good info aswell
I use pennz,castrol...As long as its a good brand and change frequently thats whats important..Now every now and then my buddy will get a good deal on RP and when I change my oil I get it through him..But other than that I'm not super particular other than changing it frequently
12 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 407
Likes: 1
From: Rockwall, TX
I run Amsoil for both
Motor Oil: http://www.amsoil.com/comparison/motor-oil.aspx
And Gear lube: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf (worth a good read!)
Motor Oil: http://www.amsoil.com/comparison/motor-oil.aspx
And Gear lube: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf (worth a good read!)
12 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 407
Likes: 1
From: Rockwall, TX
LOL the motor oil comparison is hilarious. I'm sorry if you based your decision on that.
Why didn't they compare synthetics vs synthetics? Because they wouldn't have been the hands down leader if they did. Amsoil synthetic just barely beat conventional castrol in wear protection.
AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil (ATM) and 10 competing conventional, synthetic and synthetic blend 10W-30 motor oils were subjected to a series of motor oil tests. The competing oils included petroleum-based Castrol GTX, Chevron Supreme, Havoline, Formula Shell and Pennzoil, as well as synthetic-blends Trop Artic and Motorcraft, and full-synthetic Pennzoil Platinum, Quaker State Advanced Full Synthetic and Mobil 1 Extended Performance.
