My Afternoon Adventure: Cutting Springs (w/ Pics)
Before Cutting:
Didn't take measurements, really wish I would have. My guess would be that I was sitting between 27.5-28" in the front and 28-28.5" in the rear. 4x4 FTL.
After Cutting:

Front - Just under 26.5" on both sides (cut 1.25 coils off bottom), Rear - Just under 26.75" on both sides (cut 1.5 coils off top and kept the isolator on).
Ride Quality Changes:
The car rides rougher over very bad road imperfections, but no worse than any other lowered F-Body I've been in that didn't have Konis under it. There are slightly more noticable "good vibrations" as I call them at highway speeds, meaning you just feel the road a little bit more, just like any other lowering spring. It's a little sportier ride, but it's also very soft just like stock over minor road imperfections. I hit a few dips and some rough spots in the road and never got into the bumpstops. Overall I'd say the ride was very minimally affected. I'd consider the stock ride a 7 out of 10, and the ride after cutting a 6 out of 10. I'm comparing those ride numbers to cars like my GTO and my truck, and my fiancee's Civic.
Handling:
The car is obviously lower and the spring rates obviously went up a little also. It definitely handled a little better on initial turn in, and has a more "on rails" feel, but during much harder cornering and heavy braking it's nothing like a properly springed and dampened car (there is still roll during hard cornering and nose dive under heavy braking). If stock handling is 5 out of 10, the cut spring ride is 7 out of 10. I think better shocks would bring it up to an 8, about even with what a car on lowering springs and fresh stock shock handles like.
Overall:
I'm actually really impressed that there was only a minimal amount of ride quality loss, and that there was a noticable gain in the handling department. The only downside to this is that I used an electric die grinder with a 5" cutoff wheel to trim the springs, and I did the front springs while they were still on the stock struts, and on both sides I couldn't get the springs compressed as much as I would have liked. There were a few times when the die grinder got into the lip of the spring perch as well as the coil above where I was cutting, so on both sides I've got about a 1/8" deep notch in each spring perch lip in one spot, and a little shiny spot on each coil above where I cut. That would make me pretty uncomfortable if I were planning on running this setup for the long haul. It's weak points begging for stress fractures after a lot of miles (although it may take more miles than the car will ever run to be a problem, it's not something I want to gamble on). A spring perch failure at speed could be deadly, hence why this is only a bandaid lowering job that will only have minimal miles put on it before I swap to a better setup.
Once I decide on DMS or Hotchkis springs I'll still be switching over, but for now this is a great way to lower the car IMO. I'm really leaning towards DMS with the isolator removed, because with Hotchkis I think I'll sit about where I'm sitting now, and I'd really like to be just a touch lower (closer to 26" front and 26.25-26.5" rear ride height).
Overall though I think this is a great way to lower the car a little as long as you know what you're getting in to (the ride will degrade a little, the handling will improve a little, and you will undoubtedly get into the bumpstops more). IMO this is a far better option that throwing something like the Eibach Pro Kit on stock shocks (I made that mistake once way back when).
Last edited by josh99ta; Nov 24, 2009 at 10:19 PM.
The center of gravity is lower because the car is lower, and the spring rates went up because you remove the number of active coils (although only slightly). More spring rate + lower center of gravity = better handling, although in this case on the stock shocks it's only marginally better. When I get the Bilstein HDs in I expect the handling and ride to improve to better than they were stock. The HDs are valved for stock spring rates, so they should feel a lot better than these 101k mile DeCarbons. That leaves me with the only drawback being limited suspension travel, and by modifying the upper strut/spring mount and the bumpstops all around I should gain all of that back.

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BTW, there's an easy way to check if you are getting into the jounce bumpers. In the front, push the bumper to the bottom of the shock and put a little grease on the top of it and look for the grease transfer to the top of the shock. On the back it's even easier, just put some grease on the axle and look for it to be transferred to the jounce bumper.
BTW, there's an easy way to check if you are getting into the jounce bumpers. In the front, push the bumper to the bottom of the shock and put a little grease on the top of it and look for the grease transfer to the top of the shock. On the back it's even easier, just put some grease on the axle and look for it to be transferred to the jounce bumper.
In the rear I am getting into the jounce spacers on heavy road imperfections. In the front I'm not. I will mention that TN roads are some of the best I've ever driven on. The kill us in taxes to keep the roads in the shape they're in.
Today I went a certain way to work that bottomed out nearly every suspension setup I've ever had on a F-Body (except the Koni setup I had on my Trans Am). This cut spring setup didn't bottom out. I was flat out impressed to be honest with you. I'm really looking forward to modifying the bumpstops and mount to get full suspension travel back and getting the Bilsteins on for some better dampening. I think it'll be exactly what I'm looking for.
But Josh, why didn't you just wait till you got your Bilsteins to cut the springs off the car??







