There are two purposes for the creation of the Tick Speed Bleeder. The first is the relocate the bleeder from the slave cylinder between the engine and transmission to a location more accessible under your hood. The second purpose is to make bleeding your clutch a simple, one-man job.

On the end of the braided line is a speed bleeder/solo bleeder, allowing you to simply crack it open one time and close it once the air is out of the system, instead of having to open and close the bleeder with every pump of the pedal. No longer will you have to open and close your bleeder multiple times

Instructions:

1- Using an 8mm wrench or socket, crack the bleeder counter-clockwise 1/2 turn

2- Using a short, 1/4in clear tube, attach one end to the end of the speed bleeder and dangle the other end into a water bottle or fluid receptacle to catch spent fluid. (This is not necessary, but it prevents corrosive brake fluid from spraying onto your paint.)

3- Remove cover from clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir. Remove the black diaphragm as well.

4- With the bleeder open and tubing attached, pump your clutch slowly 3-4 times. Your pedal will stay stuck to the floor and will not come back by itself; this is normal. Every few pumps, check the reservoir and fill with brake fluid as needed; Never let it run dry! If you run it dry, you will introduce air into the system.

5- Repeat step 4 until clear fluid is being flushed from the end of the bleeder

6- Remove tubing, close bleeder, and top off brake fluid.

7- Pump your clutch FAST 5-10 times to expel remaining air. You should have a full pedal with the first pump

8- Reinstall diaphragm and cover

Time Spent- Approx 5-10 minutes

**I will have pics posted within a few days**
**if there is anyway I could write this better, please give me feedback**

 

The speed bleeder I received from Tick with their master will suck air in between the line and the nut, so I'd be careful assuming this always works. I guess they fixed that problem with the later versions.

 

are you talking about it pulling air because the speed bleeder was unscrewed too far?

 

Good writeup, now where's the pics?

 

That is either an OLD TICK bleeder, or NOT their's. Their speed bleeder end is mounted solid and so is our bleeder line.



EDIT: UNLESS you installed it backwards....teh Tick line and ours...is a "loose" style fitting, on the SLAVE end, but both of our's are clearly marked, or should have been with teh speed bleeder valve installed in teh end that is supposed to have it.

 

within a week...ive been busy latley

 

I checked my email, got it as part of a GP in February. I'm assuming it is theirs, since I got it from them. It is definitely not solid when I crack the bleeder, will rattle on the end of the line. I'm pretty sure I didn't disassemble the line so that I could install it in reverse, if that's even possible. Like I said, they probably fixed this issue in the later versions. Good to know that you assume the customer is always a moron though.

 

So with the bleeder open, the pedal will stick to the floor, that means that it will not suck air right?

 

submerge the entire fitting in fluid, no guesswork.

 

Thanks!

EDIT: did the submerge method on a newer version of tick speedbleeder and it works wonders. before last night, I never submerge the tip into the fluid, and always getting air into the system.

Will report back in a week or two to see if air still manage to get into the system.

 

Very nice writeup!
Our older versions did indeed require that you submerge the tip in fluid to sufficiently bleed. Our newest versions do not require submersion.