Yeah, you'll be ok with that one. Just keep track of how much ATF you put in. Depending on which converter you use, it will take around 12 quarts give or take lol.

If I were to do it again, I'd consider the shorter one. It would be a PITA to fill but I think it would allow for better readings.

 

hey where did you get that rebuild kit from and part number?????

 

okay so to wire get speartech harness and pin 22 and 23.
bang or cut that tunnel brace
lengthen the cooler lines
get a yoke
get a tranny mount
get a custom stall

1)now I have a tune in my PCM and do not have HPtuners how would I keep that tune and get my PCM to read the 4L80?

2) do I need a new crossmember if I am not connecting my torque arm to the trans anymore?

 

1) Find a tuner (either local or mail order)

2) The length of the mounting point of the transmission is different.....BMR sells a crossmember without a torque arm mount.

 

Doing my swap now. Flexplate arp bolts were wrong from speed inc but pretty sure they said flywheel bolts. We used some other ones maybe stock flywheel ones loctited of course.
Bit extra work on my 4l80 do to aps turbo kit. Had to slice bit off bellhousing on drivers side for downpipe clearance and do a bit of messing around for passenger side wastegate clearance. Just used minisledge for plug clearance. Stall is in there triple clicked of course used bungee to keep it in there. Doing this swap on garage floor. Got car up about 23 or 24 inches on bigger safety jacks and just enough to get trans under and using some floor jacks low profile one especially that buddy bolted on flat plate to.
With wood and safety jacks and the floor jacks things are going ok for installation and should have the trans final bolted in tommorrow.

Then will do the lsxtune harness. Have turbo 400 yoke that looks like will work might need conversion ujoint to go to my strange drivshaft which is 1350. Will order custom driveshaft over winter.

Already have hptuners tune for 4l80. Bmr crossmember seems fine ,torque arm relocation onto the crossmember. Had spohn tunnel mount but it sucked for ground clearance. Like this crossmember location better no ground clearance problems.

I don't think my stock 4l60 shifter has any switches on it for neutral or reverse lights??
If not then will think get 4l80 switch that goes on side of trans.Didn't look closely at shifter yet have to get it from other location next day or so.

Oh also cut the stock bellhousing bolts a bit shorter seem a bit too long. Unless mixed up the front bellhousing with rear bellhousing bolts from the t56.Gave some away with the t56.

Will of course check stall converter for proper play and yoke also.
Hoping to be auto and working within a week.

 

The stock shifter should have a NSS/ reverse light switch built in. No need for the truck one.

 

OK WHICH SHIFTER SELECT ARM DO I NEED HERE?? I went to tranny place and got 4l80 supposedly and 4l60 shift select arms and neither works right. the 4l80 was straight and bit longer than the 4l60 which had slight offset to it but is too short it looks like. So did this guy not really know what a 4l80 shift arm looks like? anyone have gm part number or pic of the 4l80 shift arm. I guess should maybe call up my trans builder and get one overnighted to me. Also looks like when guys took off my used 4l60 cable they wrecked the front where the ball goes in. So have to order a new shift cable it looks like from gm as looks like only gm dealerships can sell the newer gm parts nowadays.

 

Ok finally found another thread which think clears up the above shift select lever issue.
The search on here sure don't work well. Had to like google and got lucky.

I saw it work with the 4l60 shift cable, 4l60 cable bracket and 4l60 shift select lever.That car had long stud where selector lever goes. So now understand why that combo dont work on my car . my 4l80 has the short stud. So does the 4l80 shift select arm have enough offset to clear with the short stud? Anyone have a pic of the 4l80 shift select arm cant' seem to find pic of one anywhere.
I didn't get one with my tranny. tranny place gave me think 4l60 and mabye 4l80 but its straight no offset to clear the pan and don't work for me.
Can mguyver something but really would like to just get a proper shift lever and hook this stuff up and drive my car.

 

Used b and m shift arm bent it up and used bolt and nut not ball .Working ok. As everyone else did filed out holes in stock 4l60 bracket and both bolts bolted in on bottom of pan. No problem gettting gears.

Fired up car yesterday and had codes..Found out lsxtune harness didn't have a fuse! Put in fuse and that fixed the codes. Filled up trans..made mistake and got the short lokar..part numbers are confusing..anyway as said it sucks but can work. I ordered the longer lokar one now.

Drove car for first time around the block and not happy camper at all. No codes now but the speedo is super off. Like reading 60mph when it should read 20mph. And the trans is shiftting very weird ,if it shifts based off the speedo that explains it. Like going to think fourth at 20mph. And it is shifting hard at part throttle. I have to talk to guys at rpm that built my trans about that. Maybe can lower trans pressure. Supposed to have a street shift kit. I didn't go wot. I am getting horrible noises think from lugging engine when it goes to like 4th at 1000rpm.
So think first thing to do is figure out how to fix speedo.It was working perfect with my t56 ,tires size that put in and 3.54 gears in my dana 60. So why is it out to lunch on the 4l80 thought segment swap fixed any issues.
Someone please tell me how to fix this as think all my shifting problems are from this being out to lunch.
Tommorrow going to finish putting metel plate on trans tunnerl. Think use old 6 speed rubber pieces under the steel to seal things up a bit better. And put in my auto pedals. Thats pretty much concludes the swap ,ordered a 24 inch cylindrical dual pass filter to run up front above my air dam on frame. Not much room in front for conventional one with my big intercooler .Just looped the cooler lines for temp. Its cool up here anyway this time of year ,car will be going away in a few days for its winter sleep.

Not sure which dustshield to get yet..the metal one or the cast aluminum one.I have to likey tweak it a bit to clear my aps downpipe on drivers side and maybe my wastegate on passenger side. Think could dremel up the cast alumunum and the metal one likely would trim up nice.Decisions decisions...

Would like to report am happy with my swap but right now not that much.Also think the 4l80 whines pretty loud but as said have hold in floor and console is out of car.
And wasn't playing stereo.

I would go for ride tonite if can fix the speedo. I have gps to make sure my calibration is correct.

 

I didn't see if it was already covered but Im doing a swap into a foxbody car and Im using a lq4 which I think is a 2005. will I need a crank spacer or any thing to use the 4l80e? Also Im haveing a custom harness built can I just tell them to do it for a 4l80e or will I still have to use a 4l60e adapter because of the computer?

 

good info here!

 

So I am trying to gather the parts needed for this conversion, and right now I have a UMI body mounted torque arm would I have to remove this to fit the 4l80e and get the 4l80 x-member to go in place of it such as the BMR x-member (PN: TCC020). Where would I mount my torque arm to then or would I use both I am sorta confused, and have not been under the car in awhile and or worked on it in awhile any help is appreciated.
Right now under my parts list for this conversion is the lsxtune 4l60 to 4l80 harness, lokar 36" dipstick, trans obviously, and converter to bolt up to stock flexplate. What else do I need can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

My MAC torque was a body mount and I had it installed with my 4l80e.

You will also need a tune and a driveshaft.

 

Ok so I don't have to remove it just get the bmr x-member and I'm good then? The stock drive shaft doesn't fit?
Also will this UMI one work for the x-member:
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...263et7bk0qb0f4

 

UMI one is for a 400, not a 4l80e. Pretty sure it will not work.

PM "ssvert99" on here. His name is Eric and he owns Midwest Chasis. He can make you one for really cheap vs some of the other ones on the market.

Stock driveshaft will not work.

 

You need turbo 400 yoke but driveshaft length is same for 4l80e.
You change out crossmember to 4l80e.You can use either tunnel mount torque arm or get crossmember with torque arm relocation but the 4l80 has no provision to mount torque arm off it directly.
You are going to have to cut ears off the 4l80 to get it in there and notch the drivers side a lot where that big plug goes and possibly notch on passenger side for the back fitting. I went with 90 but had to modify it to have the longer tube on it like the factory back plug.That is supposed to be important to have that longer tube on that back trans fitting.
You likely want more trans cooling too if you are going bigger stall with the 4l80e.
You will as said need tuning for the 4l80e ,most guys with hptuners get segment swap.
You have the harness and your car is already auto so of course easier than a t56 to 4l80 swap like I did in my car.
And make sure you do get the longer 36 inch firewall lokar I somehow got the shorter 24 inch one and it works but is super pain in the butt.I got the right one to install shortly.
You need stall that works with factory flywheel .I got sfi flywheel off speed inc.
Tci also think is good one to get. Trans mount is interchangeable.
Its a pretty easy swap really and as said much easier since you already are auto.

 

Ya, I have a giant trans cooler on the car now for the 4l60e that I will use for the 4l80e. I think I have everything down and ready to start ordering once the tax return comes in, but what fitting on the back, the ones for the trans lines to connect to?

 

Back trans fitting had tube on it that extends further into trans and think is very important to be like that. I wanted 90s for clearance reasons so didn't have to notch out on that side on frame and as said we added that tube part to a 90 fitting.Its the rear trans cooler line fitting.

 

Got ya, so the driveshaft length is the same as my 4l60e?

 

Yes, I used my stock driveshaft and just had a conversionu-joint and correct yoke put on the front. Worked great. As for the colling lines, I just re-used the stock 4l60e hard lines. Right about the convertor area I cut them, used a set of Earls fittings and converted then to -6AN braided. I then ran the braided right to my cooler.