Just installed a motor in my car I went to fire it and it would not stay started it started misfiring.
It throwing the crankshaft code A low voltage. I put a new crank shaft sensor in and that didnt work.
We delted the code and started it back up it ran fine for 10sec. then back to the same thing and it threw the code again.
any ideas.
I check the coils and #1 #2# 5 are not hitting at all.

 

what year of block was there the wrong reluctor wheel. How can you tell what year block you have.

 

It is throwing DTC 0336

 

anyone know the voltage # on the cranksensor wires.

 

Do you have the tools to check runout on the crank reluctor wheel?

 

Sensor connector pinouts:
A - yellow to PCM C1 44 outut signal to PCM from sensor
B - yellow/black to PCM C2 22 low reference (ground)
C - light green from PCM - 12 volt signal - PCM C2 62

Since it does fire, I would lean towards taking the starter off and the crank sensor out to look thu the hole to see if the reluctor ring is bent or damaged.

From the manual

The following conditions may cause this DTC to set:
- Poor connections/terminal tension at the sensor. Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis In Wiring Systems.

- Crankshaft reluctor wheel damage or improper installation.

- The sensor coming in contact with the reluctor wheel.

- The engine running out of fuel.

- If the crankshaft rotates backwards, this DTC sets. This condition is only with vehicles equipped with a manual transmission. This condition can occur when a vehicle is on an incline and the clutch is released and an engine stall occurs.

• Excessive crankshaft end play will cause the CKP sensor reluctor wheel to move out of alignment with the CKP sensor. This could result in any one of the following:

- A no start

- A start and stall

- Erratic performance

• An improperly installed propeller shaft could cause excess crankshaft end play. Refer to Propeller Shaft Diagnosis in Engine Mechanical.

• Using Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can aid in determining how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also aid determining how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed.

• For an intermittent, refer to Symptoms .

 

I tried putting a tiny washer in there to shim it and also took the rubber from aroud the plug so it would snap in to the sensor tight and that didnt work either. I dont have the tools to check the reluctor ring. I pulled all the wiring out and check the wiring from the computer to the sensor it all look fire I also cleaned the conector and took the rubber out of it so it would snap firmly into the sensor.
Im going today to get a voltage tester. Im out of options besides it being the reluctor wheel.

 

anyone have any ideas

 

I went and purchased a new sensor and new wiring plug. So im trying that today and testing the voltage in the wire. any other ideas

 

Should I unhook the battery and reset the computer before I put the new sensor in?

 

Did you ever find out what caused your problem? Did you have to replace the reluctor wheel?

 

what was the outcome? was it a bad reluctor wheel?

 

WHERE IS THE CONCLUSION!!! I'm having a similar problem. I'm only seeing 10.6 volts from wire A to C though with the koeo. Is this normal? Acceptable? I have recently swapped an LS1 into a G-body, done with the swap, but the engine will only run for a few seconds.