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My car f'n hates me! Problem installing the last spark plug. Please help

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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 07:49 PM
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Default My car f'n hates me! Problem installing the last spark plug. Please help

Well I was finishing up putting my spark plugs in and the #5 was started by hand. Id say just a couple threads maybe. Not sure. Anyways im tightening it down and it started to get tight and then got real easy again. I knew then something was up. But still for some reason continued. Anyway the spark plug went all the way in and tight. The socket was really hard to get off. Finally pulled it off and it just didnt look right. Angle is off a litte.

Pulled it out and it kept catching. Looked it over and the threads werent horrible just knicks it looked like. No metal shavings or anything. Stuck my little finger down in the hole and it doesnt feel tore up and there are no metal shavings but its definently not right. I dont know what to do. This project as broke the bank a couple times and heads are out of the question. Is it tappable? What tap and how do I know for sure im on the factory threads. Please help.

Also will the angle being off a little bit make a difference? The plug goes in and gets tight but is obviously wrong.

Last edited by kkslds; Nov 4, 2009 at 08:13 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 08:05 PM
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yea try to clean the threads with a tap, its metric so it might be harder to find.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 08:23 PM
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I had the same problem on almost every single plug when I did my header install. I think the sealer used from the factory hardened up and stayed in some of the threads, making it really, really tight going in. I stopped several times, feeling sure I was cross-threading the plug, but every time I checked the plug and the threads, they looked perfect.

Can you run a round wire brush or something like that in the plug hole to clean the threads? Might be worth a shot.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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Well the plug goes in ok. Coming back out is a little tough though. Gets caught up alot. And its at just enough of a wrong angle the socket is hard to get off due to being up against the header.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 08:49 PM
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Also the car has a D1sc. Not sure if thats gonna make a difference. Didn't know if it could blow it back out or not.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 06:17 AM
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Don't use a tap to clean the threads too much of a change to ruin them. Advance or any parts store sell a thread chaser for the spark plug threads pretty cheap. I would use that.
Ed
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 06:48 AM
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Im ordering the KD 3545 internel thread chaser. Hopefully it solves my problems
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 06:50 AM
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You need one of these...

Spark Plug Thread Chaser: 14mm & 18mm



Code: POW351690
Price: $5.33
Shipping Weight: 0.34 pounds



Quantity:

A stripped spark plug hole is not a fun thing to fix. Avoid this trouble by using our Spark Plug Hole Thread Chaser to renew damaged threads and allow firm seating of plugs. Our long 13/16" hex design prevents wobble, while the neoprene ring holds the heat-treated chaser snugly in your socket. Our tool is double ended to fit both 14mm and 18mm threads.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 07:38 AM
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another thing to check, but this may not be your issue. i've had some cars where my spark plug socket would bind up on the flanges of the headers makign it seam as though the plug was going in or coming out tight. i ground down the outside of my plug socket a little bit so it wouldnt bind up and that solved my issues. double check to make sure thats not the problem
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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another thing to check, but this may not be your issue. i've had some cars where my spark plug socket would bind up on the flanges of the headers makign it seam as though the plug was going in or coming out tight. i ground down the outside of my plug socket a little bit so it wouldnt bind up and that solved my issues. double check to make sure thats not the problem
Ok I will do that. I just put the headers in. They are coated pacesetters. So this is the first time installing plugs with them on. Its just weird #5 is the only one i'm haveing problems with. I hope your right. So close to finishing a project to be held up by a spark plug.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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I would use anti-seize too. Good luck
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris@Straightline
another thing to check, but this may not be your issue. i've had some cars where my spark plug socket would bind up on the flanges of the headers makign it seam as though the plug was going in or coming out tight. i ground down the outside of my plug socket a little bit so it wouldnt bind up and that solved my issues. double check to make sure thats not the problem
Hopefully this is your issue.

High quality sockets (Mac, Snap-On) have a thin wall to reduce the likelyhood of this happening.

Much cheaper than having to pull the heads.
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 04:06 PM
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Also have a look at the threads on your spark plugs to see if they are damaged/distorted...

if they appear to be, get new spark plugs.
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SweetS10V8
You need one of these...

Spark Plug Thread Chaser: 14mm & 18mm



Code: POW351690
Price: $5.33
Shipping Weight: 0.34 pounds



Quantity:

A stripped spark plug hole is not a fun thing to fix. Avoid this trouble by using our Spark Plug Hole Thread Chaser to renew damaged threads and allow firm seating of plugs. Our long 13/16" hex design prevents wobble, while the neoprene ring holds the heat-treated chaser snugly in your socket. Our tool is double ended to fit both 14mm and 18mm threads.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Category_Code=


Originally Posted by BlownChevySS
I would use anti-seize too. Good luck





.
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 05:02 PM
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You must put grease between the flutes on the thread chaser. The grease will catch and hold any burrs that are sheared off by the thread chaser. You have to start spark plugs by hand. This is a long reach fine thread. You never want to damage threads, but you might get away with one or two damaged threads on such a long reach plugs. You can try a spark plug socket that has a swiveling neck. These are helpful in confined spaces. You can also try a section of rubber hose that will fit snuggly over the neck of the spark plug. The flexibility of the rubber hose allows you to reach angles you might otherwise get to. Make sure the spark plug is tight enough to hold the plug suspended. Once you get the plug started a few turns by hand you can finish tightening it with a socket and rachet.
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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^The best rubber to use is an old spark plug boot. Not one of the thick ribbed ones used on a stock LS1, but one of the cheap shitty orange boots off of a K-car.

They are flexible - AWESOME to start the threads on anything before you put the tools to it.
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 11:53 PM
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well i got the kd 3545 and i guess i got a junk one. I screw the thing all the way in and it barely opens up if at all. With it all the way in it still just goes in and out of the spark plug hole with ease
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by kkslds
well i got the kd 3545 and i guess i got a junk one. I screw the thing all the way in and it barely opens up if at all. With it all the way in it still just goes in and out of the spark plug hole with ease
First, verify it's the correct size tap (things have been known to be mispackaged). If it's the correct tool, then your plug hole is shot, wallowed out, too far gone to save...
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