$$100 dollars if you fix it....
Did you check the coolant temp sensor on the water pump like I mentioned in your previous thread? That will cause it to run really rich if the sensor or the wire is bad. Wish ya lived closer so I could just go over and help you out.
IMHO, what it seems to me that you need the most is someone with a diagnostic cable and DataMaster. You can hook the cable up to the diagnostic port under the dash, plug it into the laptop via USB, and then turn on the data logging. Then turn the key to the "ON" position (don't crank it or start it) and see what codes are being thrown as well as what the PCM is seeing as your water temp. I bet that would give us the best information.
IMHO, what it seems to me that you need the most is someone with a diagnostic cable and DataMaster. You can hook the cable up to the diagnostic port under the dash, plug it into the laptop via USB, and then turn on the data logging. Then turn the key to the "ON" position (don't crank it or start it) and see what codes are being thrown as well as what the PCM is seeing as your water temp. I bet that would give us the best information.
The easiest way to rule out the pcm is to plug in your old pcm (the one with the factory setting) and see not only how it runs but if your other lights come on. If you put in the original pcm and your abs light, air bag, and other lights go off but the check engine light comes on (because of cam and emissions delete) then the pcm itself is the problem. However if you plug in the factory pcm and you have the same exact problems then it is elsewhere. Just my .02
you pay for my gas and buy my lunch and i will drive to richmond this coming weekend with datamaster and check your cars codes. since the tranny is coming out of mine, i am at a stand still anyway. oh yeah i have the 16 pin connector not the 12. you know the one like this http://shbox.com/1/dlc1.jpg
Body Control Module I'm sure that there are more issues than this but I do know that your BCM (Body Control Module) has to agree with the VIN in the computer. If there is a conflict here this could be the issue. As far as I know the Body Control Module controls all of the options within the car and I believe it is tied into the ABS/TCS/gauges and fans. If you switch computers you will need to get the old VIN reprogrammed into the new computer. Also make sure that this is plugged in, it is located under the passengers side of the dashboard, it is a rectangular box with two or three plugs going into it (I can't remember off the top of my head). When I read your description this was the first thing that came to my mind. I'm not saying that this will fix all of your problems but it may fix most of them.
I started taking grounds off to see if the car would run last night and sure enough it's just the same even with the main PCM ground disconnected, and the grounds going to the coil/ICM. Is that supposed to happen? I must have a short somewhere.
Check the positive side too, make sure the PCM is even getting power.
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Do you have the positive terminal screwed in ALL THE WAY? I remember reading a thread where one guy was having tons of weird electrical problems. It later came to be solved when he explained that he only "hand tightened" the positive terminal thinking it was 'good enough' for a quick start. He tightened it down all the way and it fired right up.
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Born/Raised North East, MD Lived in VA, NC, MI Back in Yorktown, Va
Do you have the positive terminal screwed in ALL THE WAY? I remember reading a thread where one guy was having tons of weird electrical problems. It later came to be solved when he explained that he only "hand tightened" the positive terminal thinking it was 'good enough' for a quick start. He tightened it down all the way and it fired right up.
Both the pos and neg. terminals are as tight as they will ever be. I am going to pull the harness off the motor and painstakingly check every wire and every prong on each connector. It's going to suck but I feel like this is a harness problem. It's a 15 year old car and I was could've damaged some **** pulling the old motor out. I feel like I took my time but there's a chance some of the wiring was just waiting to be tampered with so it could break into millions of little pieces lol. Worst case scenario would be if I don't find one single problem with the wiring. But I'm gonna remain optimistic.
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Clearwater
you neglected to mention in the other post about it comming from an RX-7. maybe the PCM was tuned for the fuel pressure that the RX-7 pump puts out (which i believe is about 10psi lower) so on a f-body pump that would explain why its dumping fuel. also about swapping in the stock PCM and doing the same thing i am willing to bet those are larger injectors because a GM847 cam with a tune will damn near max out a stock ones.
Last edited by stevo9389; Nov 4, 2009 at 11:30 PM.
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From: Kempner, TX
As I understand it, you have a 1994 car with a 1994 wiring harness (since I didn't see any mention of you getting the wiring harness off the other car).
With all the malfunctions you're engine's experiencing I suspect an incompatability between the harness in your 94 and the 95 setup you bought.
If GM changed the pin-outs, even though the PCM and sensors would plug in, it could be that all your problems are due to the harness itself.
I'd call one of the companies that make custom wring harnesses for swaps, like you've done, and ask. Start off by calling F.A.S.T. 1-662-224-3495 to see if they can help. If not ask them for a reference to another company.
I'm sure someone has come across this issue before and knows the "fix".
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
With all the malfunctions you're engine's experiencing I suspect an incompatability between the harness in your 94 and the 95 setup you bought.
If GM changed the pin-outs, even though the PCM and sensors would plug in, it could be that all your problems are due to the harness itself.
I'd call one of the companies that make custom wring harnesses for swaps, like you've done, and ask. Start off by calling F.A.S.T. 1-662-224-3495 to see if they can help. If not ask them for a reference to another company.
I'm sure someone has come across this issue before and knows the "fix".
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day Parade 20 May 2010!!!
94-95 were identical except one pin for the 4L60E. He is M6 so this is not the issue
Start with the obvious, dumping fuel. Are you sure the injectors are good?
Next, the VIN difference should be the aigbag codes. Several 98 cars who swapped to the +99 PCM had similar problems as do 3rd gen SBCs running LS1 PCMs (mostly isues with the CTS reading)
Next, some issues come up with the CTS (two pin in the water pump). When CTS' go bad, they either go full open, full closed, or stuck on one value. I cant remember which gives what resistance, but they can register a temp of -60*C. If the PCM reads this faulty measure it will adjust and dump fuel as if the car was in the arctic circle. This problem is common on LO5 trucks. Easy way to rule it out is to unplug the CTS. Unplugged CTS will throw a code and reset to default temp. If richness is still present, CTS is not your issue
Next the HO2s. Ive heard alot of people blame all sorts of problems on O2 sensors. Simply put, if your problem is present at startup and/or warmup IT IS NOT O2 SENSOR RELATED. O2s are not even used until the engine switches to closed loop operation
The biggest issue so far is the PCM grounds not changing how the car runs. With a multimeter, check continuity from pins A2, C32, A18, D1 to the PCM ground ring. Next check continuity from each ground ring to the others. They should all be connected. Broken continuity and high resistance values mean poor connections
Start with the obvious, dumping fuel. Are you sure the injectors are good?
Next, the VIN difference should be the aigbag codes. Several 98 cars who swapped to the +99 PCM had similar problems as do 3rd gen SBCs running LS1 PCMs (mostly isues with the CTS reading)
Next, some issues come up with the CTS (two pin in the water pump). When CTS' go bad, they either go full open, full closed, or stuck on one value. I cant remember which gives what resistance, but they can register a temp of -60*C. If the PCM reads this faulty measure it will adjust and dump fuel as if the car was in the arctic circle. This problem is common on LO5 trucks. Easy way to rule it out is to unplug the CTS. Unplugged CTS will throw a code and reset to default temp. If richness is still present, CTS is not your issue
Next the HO2s. Ive heard alot of people blame all sorts of problems on O2 sensors. Simply put, if your problem is present at startup and/or warmup IT IS NOT O2 SENSOR RELATED. O2s are not even used until the engine switches to closed loop operation
The biggest issue so far is the PCM grounds not changing how the car runs. With a multimeter, check continuity from pins A2, C32, A18, D1 to the PCM ground ring. Next check continuity from each ground ring to the others. They should all be connected. Broken continuity and high resistance values mean poor connections
Only part of your post that I would disagree with - I swapped from a 94 v6 to a 95 LT1 and used two different 95 PCMs and never had any issues with the VIN being different in the PCM.