how long has your RMVB th400 w/brake lasted on the street? (miles)
You can do a gentle accelerating downshift (like to pass someone) but you can't do a decelerated downshift.
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From: Alliance Nebraska
good info guys! thats the stuff i was talking about... i had no idea that is was bad to downshift a mvb transmission....
as far as converters..... how big are you guys running on the street? I love the VIG 3600 so i was thinking of staying with 3600-4000 stall
as far as converters..... how big are you guys running on the street? I love the VIG 3600 so i was thinking of staying with 3600-4000 stall
I daily drive my RMVB th400 with zero issues.
Main thing is to not let off in first or second gear. There's no engine breaking and it forces the trans to slip the whole time it's doing that. It also overruns the sprag I believe.
Start burn outs in 2nd gear and pull 3rd if you have the power to do so.
Main thing is to not let off in first or second gear. There's no engine breaking and it forces the trans to slip the whole time it's doing that. It also overruns the sprag I believe.
Start burn outs in 2nd gear and pull 3rd if you have the power to do so.
Im running a 4400 FTI converter. Its plain awesome! Wont find a better converter. Tight on the street, yet lays it open when you rail it. The car will take off on its own when you let off the brakes, its TIGHT TIGHT on the bottom, and at WOT flashes like a big dawg.
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From: Alliance Nebraska
Someone want to clear this up?
Should make a new thread....... "How to drive a Manual Valve Body TH400 on the street: Do's & Dont's" lol
No, you shouldn't downshift an auto to decelerate anyway. Its a good way to burn up the bands. With most RVMB TH400s, there is no intermediate band, so there is no engine braking in 2nd.
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From: Alliance Nebraska
I am kinda curious about this also.. would hate to kill my tranny, lol.
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From: Spring Tx
yea its confusing to me. if im getting off the freeway and slowing down id want to get into 2nd. instead of 3rd and this could be troublesome to the transmission.
unless when i down shift im getting on the gas some what?
unless when i down shift im getting on the gas some what?
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just to clarify...pulling up to a light, leave it in third. once fully stopped, downshift to first. when the light goes green, accelerate back up to speed making sure to not let off the gas in 1st or 2nd. if you want to downshift for a little more acceleration, depress the gas slightly and downshift. is this correct? if that is the case driving in traffic could be very difficult, basically what i want to know is can you let off the gas and decelerate in 1st or 2nd? i understand at the end of the strip not to downshift or hit neutral, just coast. should yu only let off once into 3rd?
just to clarify...pulling up to a light, leave it in third. once fully stopped, downshift to first. when the light goes green, accelerate back up to speed making sure to not let off the gas in 1st or 2nd. if you want to downshift for a little more acceleration, depress the gas slightly and downshift. is this correct? if that is the case driving in traffic could be very difficult, basically what i want to know is can you let off the gas and decelerate in 1st or 2nd? i understand at the end of the strip not to downshift or hit neutral, just coast. should yu only let off once into 3rd?
If you tranny donsn't have a front band don't down shift from 3rd to 2nd or you will freewheel your drum. I run a vig 3600 and 3:50's on my 9".
Are there any rmvb that can be downshifted on decel,Im inthe process right now of putting a turbo 400 in the car.I think there should be like some suggested do's don'ts for mvb tranny cause this hobby is exspesive enough not knowing how to drive the tranny is big $ if it breaks.I hope this mvb is all the hype they say it is cause I loved driving my 6spd just was too much for me clutch after clutch etc etc.
1- yes you do need to come to a complete stop before shifting down with a RMVB unless you are on the throttle as these have no braking on downshift.
2- major things that affect longtivity are how you drive and I am not talking power. Things like starting in 3rd or second rather than waiting to shift down or just being to lazy to do so. You also need LOTS of cooler with a big stall. With no lockup these will make alotta heat all the time.
3- You can downshift at any speed while accelerating but but for decel you need to come to a complete stop. No coasting in lower gears.
2- major things that affect longtivity are how you drive and I am not talking power. Things like starting in 3rd or second rather than waiting to shift down or just being to lazy to do so. You also need LOTS of cooler with a big stall. With no lockup these will make alotta heat all the time.
3- You can downshift at any speed while accelerating but but for decel you need to come to a complete stop. No coasting in lower gears.
__________________
Burnouts- Start in second and shift to 3rd immediatly.
At the end of the track-come to a complete stop if you can and then shift back down to 1st.
Do Not shift to nuetral after you cross the finish line. Leave the tranny in drive or 3rd.
I run a 3.00 gear with a 295-45-17 MT drag radial. I have a 3200 stall speed cruising and when I hammer it the boost will cause the converter to go to 5200rpm appx. and locks down like a locked converter act's.
At the end of the track-come to a complete stop if you can and then shift back down to 1st.
Do Not shift to nuetral after you cross the finish line. Leave the tranny in drive or 3rd.
I run a 3.00 gear with a 295-45-17 MT drag radial. I have a 3200 stall speed cruising and when I hammer it the boost will cause the converter to go to 5200rpm appx. and locks down like a locked converter act's.
1- yes you do need to come to a complete stop before shifting down with a RMVB unless you are on the throttle as these have no braking on downshift.
2- major things that affect longtivity are how you drive and I am not talking power. Things like starting in 3rd or second rather than waiting to shift down or just being to lazy to do so. You also need LOTS of cooler with a big stall. With no lockup these will make alotta heat all the time.
3- You can downshift at any speed while accelerating but but for decel you need to come to a complete stop. No coasting in lower gears.
2- major things that affect longtivity are how you drive and I am not talking power. Things like starting in 3rd or second rather than waiting to shift down or just being to lazy to do so. You also need LOTS of cooler with a big stall. With no lockup these will make alotta heat all the time.
3- You can downshift at any speed while accelerating but but for decel you need to come to a complete stop. No coasting in lower gears.
Burnouts- Start in second and shift to 3rd immediatly.
At the end of the track-come to a complete stop if you can and then shift back down to 1st.
Do Not shift to nuetral after you cross the finish line. Leave the tranny in drive or 3rd.
I run a 3.00 gear with a 295-45-17 MT drag radial. I have a 3200 stall speed cruising and when I hammer it the boost will cause the converter to go to 5200rpm appx. and locks down like a locked converter act's.
At the end of the track-come to a complete stop if you can and then shift back down to 1st.
Do Not shift to nuetral after you cross the finish line. Leave the tranny in drive or 3rd.
I run a 3.00 gear with a 295-45-17 MT drag radial. I have a 3200 stall speed cruising and when I hammer it the boost will cause the converter to go to 5200rpm appx. and locks down like a locked converter act's.