My Winter Project: LT1 Suspension Setup
My Winter Project: LT1 Suspension Setup So i have decided upon my winter project for my 1994 Trans Am A4. Rather than break into the motor or go FI i have decided to get some suspension issues taken care of first. The car itself runs and drives good (with the exception of a dead spot in the steering). It has a CAI, C/B and LS1 brake swap. My thinking is to do most of the install at one time and here is what ive got so far. i will continue to update this thread as the build continues
Parts installed:
spohn 25mm rear sway bar with poly ends
Tubular tunnel brace
Strut Tower Brace
Slp Front sway bar
Tubular LCAs and bolt in relo brackets
Parts Sitting In My Garage:
Jegster adj. tunnel mounted tq arm (ive heard mixed feedback on this any input would be nice)
new lower ball joints
LS1 Alum DS
Current Wants list:
KYB AGX shocks
BMR springs
Adj tubular phb
Sfcs boxed
Any suggestions or help will be appreciated. Also what other maintence should i be looking to do at this time? car has 134K miles. i planned on a changing the trans output seal and rear end/trans cover/fluid, O2 sensors, rear rotors/hawk pads, and maybe a bigger front bar. What can i do about my steering dead spot? Is it the intermediate shaft rag joint or w.e or maybe inner tie rod ends? id like to know if any one else has fixed this problem. this is not a daily driver but i would like it to retain driveability and it should plan on seeing both the dragstrip and highway racing.
Im only 17 and plan on doing almost all of this in my garage so install tips would be nice.
Parts installed:
spohn 25mm rear sway bar with poly ends
Tubular tunnel brace
Strut Tower Brace
Slp Front sway bar
Tubular LCAs and bolt in relo brackets
Parts Sitting In My Garage:
Jegster adj. tunnel mounted tq arm (ive heard mixed feedback on this any input would be nice)
new lower ball joints
LS1 Alum DS
Current Wants list:
KYB AGX shocks
BMR springs
Adj tubular phb
Sfcs boxed
Any suggestions or help will be appreciated. Also what other maintence should i be looking to do at this time? car has 134K miles. i planned on a changing the trans output seal and rear end/trans cover/fluid, O2 sensors, rear rotors/hawk pads, and maybe a bigger front bar. What can i do about my steering dead spot? Is it the intermediate shaft rag joint or w.e or maybe inner tie rod ends? id like to know if any one else has fixed this problem. this is not a daily driver but i would like it to retain driveability and it should plan on seeing both the dragstrip and highway racing.
Im only 17 and plan on doing almost all of this in my garage so install tips would be nice.
Last edited by bigbirddriver94; Nov 24, 2009 at 10:31 AM. Reason: update
Ive seen that jegter TQ Arm fail badly tearing up the trans tunnel. Be carefull being an active parts buyer. A dead spot in your steering? Can you further explain? You have U-joints in your steering shaft. GM did away with the Rag Joints along time ago.
yes the torque arm is my main concern right now, im not wild about the tunnel mounting but if it does not perform to my standards i can always switch to the spohn crossmember mount type which i have always perfered. as far as the dead spot. when the steering wheel is a top dead center there is play both ways i can turn it without the wheels moving, it gets particulary noticeable at high speeds and is quite annoying. i know for a fact i currently have a blown outer tie rod end that i hope is the the culprit for the play but i was wondering if it could be that intermediate shaft u joint and how to go about fixing that
Yes the Spohn mid-mount is nice. I have run one of those. Mine had the drop center for when I had SLP long tubes. But I have a different exhaust so I an swithcing to the straight mount( with saftey loop). Yes that outer tiie rod end can lead to your poor steering. The intermediat shaft joint can be checked for play by grabbing it. It shouldnt have any radial or axial play. Just like any other type of U-joint.
these also have the nasty rag joint still in them. Unbalanced Engineering has a very nice piece to correct this as well. I had the same thing you are talking about and mine was do to tie rods and a lot of slack at the rag joint.
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thanks for all the responses. im going to go head and check that shaft for any play tommorrow and see what happens.
i really love having rusty *** bolts that absolutely will not come off everywhere i plan on upgrading. it took me and buddy a couple hours just to get the driver side bolt where the lca meets the frame. smothered it with PB and nothing, got the grinder and couldnt fit it up there, finnaly heated with the torch and broke the nut end off only to spend another who knows how long trying to punch the bolt out. if any of you have had success with another method let me know
i really love having rusty *** bolts that absolutely will not come off everywhere i plan on upgrading. it took me and buddy a couple hours just to get the driver side bolt where the lca meets the frame. smothered it with PB and nothing, got the grinder and couldnt fit it up there, finnaly heated with the torch and broke the nut end off only to spend another who knows how long trying to punch the bolt out. if any of you have had success with another method let me know
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 531
Likes: 0
From: Pocatello Idaho
Thats how I had to get them out. Torch and a big *** hammer. Unless you are keeping the stock control arms. Guess I should read better. Anyway I cut my arms and torched it. Keep heat on it when you bang the bolt. One side I got the bolt to come out the other side ended up as slag and flaming rubber bushing on the floor.
