Wiring, Stereo & Electronics Audio Components | Radars | Alarms - and things that spark when they shouldn't

Ya think I'm gonna buy a head unit when I did this?

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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 10:01 PM
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Default Ya think I'm gonna buy a head unit when I did this?

Almost a year ago, about 4 light bulbs in the monsoon head unit went out, the 2 and 5 buttons, the AUTO TONE button, the FADE, BAL, BASS, TREB **** tray lights, and the SEEK button light went out.

I didn't know the FADE, BAL, BASS,TREB lights was supposed to be lit up. It was like this when I got the car from the dealer new in '99.

So I posted a thread on LS1.com on how to replace the lights, they just basically said it's built into the circuit and can't be changed, and they all told me to get a used head unit, that being around $100 for a CD player monsoon head unit, F that!

A week before now, I ordered the parts
10 3000mcd LED lights from an online store
10 560ohms resistors
a socket to remove the radio unit and the volume control **** nut
a screwdriver to depress the connections for the fog lights and the ASR trac control switch and to take the plastic face panel off the unit
a 1/8th inch hex socket from whia tools (local hobby shop, about $7 for it) to remove the circuit board from the plastic face plate.
a soldering tool, some solder
+ this webpage printout http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/leds.html

a hour and 15 mins later... (Note: the AUTO TONE button in far right of the radio unit is actually a factory bulb, I put a LED there and when testing the bulbs before reassembly, it went out in 5 seconds, must be a defective one. So I put one good factory bulb back in it for now)
The radio looks rich cool blue color, much nicer, just like the VW GTI radio light colors.
Now no more bulbs to go out, no more heat coming from the faceplate and no more than $15 bucks!
Attached Thumbnails Ya think I'm gonna buy a head unit when I did this?-p1010311.jpg  

Last edited by Midnight F-117A; Nov 11, 2003 at 10:10 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 11:33 PM
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Looks Great!
Here is a big thumbs up for you.

--VIP1
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Old Dec 30, 2004 | 09:01 PM
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Very nice man, very clean.
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 05:19 PM
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The reason that the Auto Tone LED blew so quickly is because bulbs are already current limiting. An LED pretty much acts like a short circuit, so it needs a resistor in series with the LED to limit the current. You can try different resistors until you get the correct brightness out of the LED.
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Noy_Z_LS1
The reason that the Auto Tone LED blew so quickly is because bulbs are already current limiting. An LED pretty much acts like a short circuit, so it needs a resistor in series with the LED to limit the current. You can try different resistors until you get the correct brightness out of the LED.
LEDs require a specific voltage which is almost always lower than 12volts. LEDs typically require 1.5V, 3.3V, or 5V (depending on the LED). So if you put 12V through it, it will blow quickly. You need a resistor to lower the voltage from 12V to the voltage that the LED requires. You can mathematically calculate it. The supplied voltage, the number of LEDS, and the LED's voltage requirement are all factors in this calculation. Another factor is whether you connect the LEDs in series or parallel. I don't remember the exact formula off hand, but you can find the formula and "LED Calculators" online. Checkout computer modding sites for more info. Computers have a 12V rail in them (the yellow wire in the 4-pin molex connector). An old computer power supply is a good test platform. Old computer power supplies have a hard switch to turn them on/off, newer power supplies use a soft-switch off the motherboard. You can buy a power supply tester to turn them on or short the correct pins on the power supply's motherboard connector (I forget which ones, but you can find it online).
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Midnight F-117A
10 560ohms resistors
I originally used 560 ohm resistors (to get 20mA at 13.8V) but I had a lot of LEDs burn out (I like to drive with my headlights on in the daytime) so I switched to 680 ohm (16mA) and updated this page back in May of 2004:
They're still plenty bright at the lower current.
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 12:53 AM
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Looks good!
Do you want to do that to the one I just took out of my car tonight?
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Old May 17, 2006 | 10:18 AM
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what about the sreen...
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 10:41 AM
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2 thumbs up

Last edited by WhiteBird00; Jul 8, 2010 at 12:03 PM. Reason: profanity
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 10:54 AM
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Thats cool need to do that to the one in my truck;
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 10:57 AM
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pretty cool, but reading your title gives me a headache.
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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any reason you couldn't use 5mm LEDs?
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 03:11 PM
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You all realize this thread was started in 2003 and the poster hasn't posted on ls1tech since 2008?

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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 04:23 PM
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you realize he's not the only person who might know something about LEDs?
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000_SS
you realize he's not the only person who might know something about LEDs?
I am sure there is a point there somewhere, but I can't seem to get it...

I made a point that you guys dug up a 7 year old thread... And responded to someone that hasn't even logged in since 08...

Your response was "He isn't the only one that knows about LED's"...

Well considering LEDS are pretty old technology like invented in the 1920's iirc I am pretty sure he isn't the only person in the world that knows about LED's...

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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 07:42 PM
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You aren't helping. Lets get back on topic. Even if the original poster may not respond, someone else may.

As to the question of 5mm LEDs, I think that is what the OP used. If you are wondering about the "3000mcd", that is the brightness measured in millicandela, not the physical size.
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 11:50 AM
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Right..i was seeing if someone else knew anything about the physical tolerances inside the head unit. I know mcd is the brightness of the leds.
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by VIP1
You aren't helping. Lets get back on topic. Even if the original poster may not respond, someone else may.
EXACTLY!!!!

I saw a website that sold LED's for our vehicle applications, from front to rear. He also had a set-up that included the monsoon radio, just plug and play I believe. However, I lost the website when the computer crashed. I remember the homepage had a f-body on it. Any help on that website?
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 12:01 PM
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This site has pretty much every LED you could want.

Super Bright LED's

This is the site I am using for my instrument cluster
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 01:02 PM
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Thanks for this thread! If anyone is interested, I went through this procedure but went with incandescent replacements. (I didn't want to mess with customized bulbs, resistors, etc.)

If I recall correctly, there were two small bulbs and 5 larger bulbs on my Firebird's Monsoon system. The correct fit incandescent ended up being:
- Small - T1 BiPin, 14V, 0.065A
- Large - T1.25 Wire Lead, 14V, .08A

Even though the original large bulb was a short T1.25 BiPin bulb, I could not for the life of me find a short model T1.25 so I went with a wire lead bulb. It worked just great,


Another important thing is to go with 14V bulbs. I'm told by a radio rebuilder that 12V bulbs won't stand up to a power spike the radio sees at start-up and is a leading reason why we burn out our stock bulbs.

Here's the final product: (My volume **** was still off in this picture.)
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