M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested
I'm giving you a link to the album of the pics... no captions or anything yet, but some of the pics may help some of you out.
I have it apart again right now (due to the stinkin' Spec clutch set-up), and I'll also address some wiring issues that I didn't find out about until I had it together (the first time) and they showed up.
M3EATER's A4 to M6 swap photos
I'm giving you a link to the album of the pics... no captions or anything yet, but some of the pics may help some of you out.
I have it apart again right now (due to the stinkin' Spec clutch set-up), and I'll also address some wiring issues that I didn't find out about until I had it together (the first time) and they showed up.
M3EATER's A4 to M6 swap photos

Woudl you do it For me? lol Whered you get the center console? is it the whole thing form an M6 or is it just hte shifter part?
So I am assuming the T56 connectors will be able to plug right into the trans.
My question is, what wiring will I have to do? Any?? Pedals?
You just need the top part of the console, the main console is the same. I got all of my parts from the same donor car (a wreck).
So I am assuming the T56 connectors will be able to plug right into the trans.
My question is, what wiring will I have to do? Any?? Pedals?
You know like the switches that go on the brake pedal...well I see an indentation for what looks like a switch for the clutch pedal. I am not talking about the black switch that gets triggered when the clutch is down.
Can anyone go look or does anyone know off hand?
Yes, as noted, there is a white 4-pin switch (like the ones on the brake pedal). There are two circuits in the switch (2 pins for each circuit). They are open when the clutch is not depressed and closed when the pedal is depressed.
I'm not sure what they operate, but I'd assume that one of the circuits disengages the cruise control.
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Therefore, you will not have the wiring in the car to be used for the switch (even if you use an M6 PCM harness .... this is part of the interior harness). Just ignore that switch when doing the A4 to M6 swap. You won't have the cruise control disengagement when the clutch is depressed .... just remember that when driving.
However, you will use the black switch that the clutch pedal contacts when depressed. Wire the dark green and purple wires (from the auto shifter switch harness) to the two terminals on this switch. This will allow the starter to engage with the clutch depressed AND allow the cruise control to work. If you just connect these two wires together, the starter will work all the time, but the cruise control will not work.
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As for the different year transmission ..... that's not an issue. You just need to match the new M6 harness (if you are swapping to one ..... I did not) to the year type of the PCM ..... in other words.... 98 only or 99 thru 02.
I've added the wiring pics to the photo album at:
A4 to M6 Trans Swap
Here's just the new wiring pics (for the auto selector switch harness):
Skip-Shift elimination for the Auto Harness (with a 6-sp flashed PCM)
Reverse switch wiring
Removing & plugging reverse lock-out solenoid
A4 to M6 Swap Photos
Here's just a couple of the new pics ... there are more at the link above:
Last edited by M3EATER; Apr 2, 2005 at 05:04 PM.
Dan
I've seen that SES light forever now
Dan
The M6 harness may verywell have the reverse switch plug on it. Look at the part of the harness that has the rear O2 sensors and the speed sensor plugs. See if there is also a plug that looks like the one shown in the above photos. You'll likely also have a plug for the Skip-Shift solenoid and one for the reverse lock-out solenoid.
By the way ..... the skip-shift and the reverse lock out may work just fine with the M6 harness (asuming that it does have the connectors as mentioned above). Although, I think the switch on the brake pedal would need to be different for the reverse lock-out to work. There is a brake pedal switch for the A4 that controls the shifter lock (you have to have your foot on the brake to shift from PARK). I was hoping to be able to use this circuit (just cut the plug from the wires that went to the lock solenoid and wire them to the reverse lock-out). However, this switch is normally closed when the brake is not pushed ..... opposite of what the reverse lock-out needs.
Last edited by M3EATER; Apr 2, 2005 at 05:03 PM.
I've seen that SES light forever now
If you want to have the reverse lock-out work proprly, you'll have to figure out how to use a brake pedal switch to run power to the solenoid when the pedal is depressed.
You can also just run a hot wire (hot when ignition is on) to the solenoid and then to ground...... this will energize the solenoid all the time when the ignition is on. Quite frankly, you might as well remove it in this case.
Your SES light is for the Skip-Shift (assuming that everything else was done correctly). You can cure it by installing the 2.2K resistor as shown above.
http://www.jlturbo.com/guide/m6swap.doc
This is a modified/added to version of the LT1 Guide.
Enjoy!
Thanks,
Dan
Thanks,
Dan
If you could check out the other switch, I would appreciate it. I'm thinking it goes on the brake pedal as we (A4) cars didn't have anything to go on te clutch pedal in the first place. There are provisions for two swithces on the brake pedal so I'll assume it goes on the upper hole?!
Dan

