lets go over causes of very notchy shifting.
lets go over causes of very notchy shifting. I had my tranny rebuilt early this year . Notchy as hell with new spec 3+ . It is getting better in the lower shifts(1-2 and 2-3) but damn that 4th gear is a bitch. I was known for fast shifts but now I suck.
Could this be just needing a really good bleeding?
Could this be a weak master cyl?
I even played with the adjustment to get it higher but still very notchy.
Only thing left is try a different shifter , factory Hurst with short stick has always worked for me before rebuild but now just feels to short and notchy.
Could this be just needing a really good bleeding?
Could this be a weak master cyl?
I even played with the adjustment to get it higher but still very notchy.
Only thing left is try a different shifter , factory Hurst with short stick has always worked for me before rebuild but now just feels to short and notchy.
If I speed shift , I have to pump the peddle a few times and row through the gears first . THen it will shift but by the time if gets to shift to 4th, I pull hard but its not there untill jsut the right rpm and then it will drop into gear.,
What gives?
What gives?
Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
I had my tranny rebuilt early this year . Notchy as hell with new spec 3+ . It is getting better in the lower shifts(1-2 and 2-3) but damn that 4th gear is a bitch. I was known for fast shifts but now I suck.
Could this be just needing a really good bleeding?
Could this be a weak master cyl?
I even played with the adjustment to get it higher but still very notchy.
Only thing left is try a different shifter , factory Hurst with short stick has always worked for me before rebuild but now just feels to short and notchy.
Could this be just needing a really good bleeding?
Could this be a weak master cyl?
I even played with the adjustment to get it higher but still very notchy.
Only thing left is try a different shifter , factory Hurst with short stick has always worked for me before rebuild but now just feels to short and notchy.
Usually notchy is worn shifter fork pads. I would check the High Hat first to make sure it is not worn. We started using the bronze ones due to the plastic ones wearing down so fast. You can pull the shifter off and check it fairly easily.
Thanks,
Amber
Thanks,
Amber
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
From: Bucks County, Pa.
Originally Posted by Ls1Joe
Usually notchy is worn shifter fork pads. I would check the High Hat first to make sure it is not worn. We started using the bronze ones due to the plastic ones wearing down so fast. You can pull the shifter off and check it fairly easily.
Thanks,
Amber
Thanks,
Amber
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Yes that is the high hat. I sell them for $20 plus shipping and have them available anytime. We noticed when we put one on our car a HUGE difference in the way it felt.
Thanks,
Amber
Thanks,
Amber
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Originally Posted by Ls1Joe
Yes that is the high hat. I sell them for $20 plus shipping and have them available anytime. We noticed when we put one on our car a HUGE difference in the way it felt.
Thanks,
Amber
Thanks,
Amber
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 0
From: Laguna Niguel, CA
How does a worn High Hat cause nothcy shifting?
And why would my tranny get stuck in the middle of shifting to 3rd gear? It starts to go in then stops about 1/2 way in and I have to either push hard to get it in or take it back out of 3rd.
Also, all the other gears except for 5th and 6th take extra effort if I dont rev match the shift. These symptoms all seem to come and go.
Could a clutch not disengaging all the way cause this?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
And why would my tranny get stuck in the middle of shifting to 3rd gear? It starts to go in then stops about 1/2 way in and I have to either push hard to get it in or take it back out of 3rd.
Also, all the other gears except for 5th and 6th take extra effort if I dont rev match the shift. These symptoms all seem to come and go.
Could a clutch not disengaging all the way cause this?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Last edited by gun5l1ng3r; Jan 4, 2007 at 04:41 PM.
Originally Posted by Ls1Joe
Yes that is the high hat. I sell them for $20 plus shipping and have them available anytime. We noticed when we put one on our car a HUGE difference in the way it felt.
Thanks,
Amber
Thanks,
Amber
The real name of the part is tis bushing and it is there to interface with the shifter and provide some isolation( eliminate tis, a gearmesh sound). It is made from Peak plastic. Although it can be changed it should ALWAYS be glued back in with a 2-part epoxy-type glue( scotch weld) as the original installation was.
A loose bushing will come out of position on some shifts and interfere with the gate / gear engagement. Once its loose and "riding up" the plastic quickly deforms and smooth shifting is lost. So , yes, a loose bushing can cause / contribute to the shift problem you describe. I also think your clutch is not fully releasing, however.
A loose bushing will come out of position on some shifts and interfere with the gate / gear engagement. Once its loose and "riding up" the plastic quickly deforms and smooth shifting is lost. So , yes, a loose bushing can cause / contribute to the shift problem you describe. I also think your clutch is not fully releasing, however.
i also just went from a spec3 to a spec 3+....Notchy as hell, cant shift fast at all anymore....racing is pretty much out of the question on the 2-3 shift and 3-4 shift as well.....in my case do u guys think it just needs a good bleed???
thanks any info is greatly appreciated
thanks any info is greatly appreciated
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 0
From: Laguna Niguel, CA
When I pump the pedal, sometimes it will make a very smooth shift possible.
My master only has about 15K-20K miles on it and my slave (sotck GM '02 + replacement) has 10K on it. I have bled it at the bleeder screw and with a mityvac. It is a Wagner unit (the MC) from a local auto store, and I still have the same stock 120K mile braided line from MC to Slave.
Could the braided line have expanded over the years, causing loss of pedal pressure when applying hydraulic pressure?
My master only has about 15K-20K miles on it and my slave (sotck GM '02 + replacement) has 10K on it. I have bled it at the bleeder screw and with a mityvac. It is a Wagner unit (the MC) from a local auto store, and I still have the same stock 120K mile braided line from MC to Slave.
Could the braided line have expanded over the years, causing loss of pedal pressure when applying hydraulic pressure?
I bled my clutch Friday and it did no good untill after I readjusted the mc . That helped a ton.
Spec told me to try adding some friction modifier to the tranny as they have done it on mustangs for years with great success. The same stuff you put in your rearend for posi units and it helped even more. This is the best that it has shifted since I got the trans rebuilt .
I will check that high hat though, dont think futral's changed that.
Spec told me to try adding some friction modifier to the tranny as they have done it on mustangs for years with great success. The same stuff you put in your rearend for posi units and it helped even more. This is the best that it has shifted since I got the trans rebuilt .
I will check that high hat though, dont think futral's changed that.
