Turn Signal Issues If your turn signal blinks faster than normal, or just stays lit instead of blinking, or doesn't light at all...
If one side works and the other side doesn't then the problem is not the flasher. If both sides don't work, then it may be the flasher but its a good idea to perform the following test anyway to make sure.
1.) Turn on the hazards and walk around the car
2.) Look for any bulbs that aren't blinking (that are supposed to blink) or are blinking erratically
3.) When you find the problem bulb, turn off the hazards
4.) Inspect the problem bulb and its socket. Either the bulb blew or the socket has corroded. There are two filaments in most of the signal bulbs. Its possible that the bright filament (signal) broke and the dim filament (parking) didn't.
5.) Replace the bulb or repair/replace the socket (which ever was the problem). Usually its just a blown bulb.
6.) Use dielectric grease on the bulb base and socket to help keep water out of the connection.
If everything works properly with the hazards, but neither side works with the signals, then the signals flasher may need to be replaced.
The 4th-gen f-body has two flasher modules. One for the left/right signal and one for the hazards. The same flasher operates both the left and right signals. That is why it cannot be the problem if one side works and the other doesn't.
If you install LEDs in any signal location, you must replace the signal flasher with an electronic flasher. A Tridon EL12 is available at auto parts stores for $8. If you don't replace the flasher with an electronic one, the signals will not work properly (might blink at the wrong speed or not at all -- usually won't blink at all).
Also, most of the signal bulbs are dual filament. The dim filament is for the parking lights and the bright filament is for the signals. Just because the light shines with the parking lights doesn't mean that it will work with the signal because it has two filaments used for two different operations. One filament can work while the other is broken.
The above test may also help diagnose slow signals. The cause is typically a corroded or damaged socket (usually a front socket). If everything looks fine, try a new flasher.
Further Diagnostics: Quote:
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Originally Posted by 2000Z28M6 Before you start tearing into the dash and under it, be sure to confirm you have no power at the actual sockets.
To test the turn signal switch,
Gain access to the bottom of the steering column. Follow the wires coming from under the steering column until you find the harness.
There you will find the inputs and outputs of the switch. Below is the color code of the wires you will need to test.
Purple - Input power to the switch.
Outputs from the switch:
Light Blue - Left Front blinker
Dark Blue - Right Front blinker
Yellow - Left Rear blinker
Green - Right Rear blinker
Take a test light get a good ground, with the ign in the on position, engage the turn signal side you will test.
First test for power hitting the switch purple wire.
Then test outputs for each blinker. You should have power on all of the above to make sure the switch is good.
FYI, in my experience only the front right was dead.
If all looks good, you can go further and test at the DRL module behind the radio.
Below is a quote from WhiteBird00:
"The only real difference between the front signals and the rear is that the front gets routed through the DRL module. It's possible that there is some problem with the DRL module especially if someone tried to disable the DRLs.
The DRL module is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes mounted to the defroster duct behind the radio. It has two plugs - one 8-pin black and one 8-pin blue. In the black connector, the dark blue with white and the light blue with white wires are the turn signal input from the switch. The plain dark blue and light blue wires are the output to the front lamps. (In both cases the dark blue is the right side and the light blue is the left side.) Using a multimeter or test light to check that you have the proper input and output at the DRL module will tell you if the module is the problem or if it's someplace else in the wiring."
Hope this helps in the future. |