Spark Plug, Info, Jetting, FAQs, All Nitrous Info, Read Me!!
01-15-2008, 03:53 PM
#1
Spark Plug, Info, Jetting, FAQs, All Nitrous Info, Read Me!! 
JET CHARTS
SPARK PLUG CHART
nitrous accessories and their uses
Common electrical problems/cures
choosing the right product at the right price part 2
Colonel's Tech Files
NOS 5177 Instal Manual
NOS Bottle Heater
NOS Bottle Opener
Nitrous Express Install Docs
NX FAQ Link
Roberts Tech Info
Q&A
Q: Will Nitrous affect engine reliability?
A: The key is choosing the correct H.P. for a given application. A kit that uses the correct factory calibration does not usually cause increased wear. As the energy released in the cylinder increases so do the loads on the various components that must handle them. If the load increases exceed the ability of the components to handle them, added wear takes place. Nitrous kits are designed for use on demand and only at wide open throttle. Nitrous can be extremely advantageous in that it is only used when you want it, not all the time. Most Nitrous kits are designed for maximum power with reliability for a given application.
Q: Can I simply bolt a nitrous kit onto my stock engine?
A: Yes. Most manufactures systems for virtually any stock engine application. The key is to choose the correct kit for a given application; i.e., 4 cyl. engines normally allow an extra 40-60 HP, 6 cyl. engines usually work great between 75-100 extra HP, small block V8's (302/350/400cid) can typically accept up to 140 extra HP, and big block V8's (427-454) might accept from 125-200 extra HP. These suggested ranges provide maximum reliability from most stock engines using cast pistons and cast crank with few or no engine modifications.
Q: What are some of the general rules for even higher HP gains?
A: Generally, forged aluminum pistons are one of best modifications you can make. Retard ignition timing by 4-8 degrees (1 to 1-1/2 degrees timing retard per 50 HP gain). In many cases a higher flowing fuel pump may be necessary. Higher octane (100+) racing type fuel may be required as well as spark plugs 1 to 2 heat ranges colder than normal with gaps closed to .025"-.030". For gains over 250 HP, other important modifications could be necessary in addition to those mentioned above. These special modifications may include a forged crankshaft, a high quality race type connecting rods, a high output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel demands of the nitrous system, and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more.
Q: How does nitrous work?
A: Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "intercooling" effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.
Q: How much performance improvement can I expect with a nitrous system?
A: For many applications an improvement from .5 to 3 full seconds and 5 to 15 MPH in the quarter mile can be expected. Factors such as engine size, tires, jetting, gearing, etc. will affect the final results.
Q: How long will the bottle last?
A: This largely depends on the type of nitrous kit and jetting used. For example, a 125 HP Power Shot kit with a standard 10 lb. capacity bottle will usually offer up to 7 to 10 full quarter-mile passes. For power levels of 250 HP, 3 to 5 full quarter-mile passes may be expected. If nitrous is only used in 2nd and 3rd gears, the number of runs will be more.
Q: How long can I hold the nitrous button down?
A: It is possible to hold the button down until the bottle is empty. However 15 continuous seconds at a time, or less, is recommended.
Q: When is the best time to use nitrous?
A: At wide open throttle only (unless a progressive controller is used). Due to the tremendous amount of increased torque, you will generally find best results, traction permitting, at early activation. Nitrous can be safely applied above 3,000 RPM under full throttle conditions.
Q: Is nitrous oxide flammable?
A: No. Nitrous Oxide by itself is non-flammable. However, the oxygen present in nitrous oxide causes combustion of fuel to take place more rapidly.
Q: Will nitrous oxide cause detonation?
A: Not directly. Detonation is the result of too little fuel present during combustion (lean) or too low of an octane of fuel. Too much ignition advance also causes detonation. In general, most kits engineered for stock type engines will work well with premium type fuels and minimal decreases of ignition timing. In racing application where higher compression ratios are used, resulting in higher cylinder pressures, a higher fuel octane must be used as well as more ignition retard.
Q: Is there any performance increase in using medical grade nitrous oxide?
A: None! Most sell only the automotive grade, called Ny-trous Plus. Ny-trous Plus contains a minimal amount of sulfur dioxide (100 ppm) as a deterrent to substance abuse. The additive does not affect performance.
Q: Is it a good idea to use an aftermarket computer program in conjunction with an ntrous System?
A: Only if the program has been designed specifically for use with nitrous oxide. Most aftermarket programs use more aggressive timing advance curves to create more power. This can lead to possible detonation. You may wish to check with the manufacturer of the program before using it.
Q: Does nitrous oxide raise cylinder pressure and temperatures?
A: Yes. Due to the ability to burn more fuel, this is exactly why nitrous makes so much power.
Q: Are there any benefits to chilling the nitrous bottle?
A: No. Chilling the bottle lowers the pressure dramatically and will also lower the flow rate of the nitrous causing a fuel rich condition and reducing power. On cold evenings you might run on the rich side. For optimal running conditions, keep bottle pressure at approximately 900-1050 psi.
Q: Are there benefits to using nitrous with turbo or super-charger applications?
A: Absolutely! In turbo applications, turbo lag is completely eliminated with the addition of a nitrous system. In addition, both turbo and superchargers compress the incoming air, thus heating it. With the injection of nitrous, a tremendous intercooling effect reduces intake charge temperatures by 75 degrees or more. Boost is usually increased as well, adding to even more power.
Q: What affect does nitrous have on an engine with considerable miles on it?
A: This depends largely on the actual condition of the engine components. Any performance modification to an engine that is worn out or poorly tuned will have detrimental effects. However, an engine in good condition, with good ring and head gasket sealing, should be able to use nitrous without any abnormal wear.
Q: Will the use of nitrous oxide affect the catalytic converter?
A: No. The increase in oxygen present in the exhaust may actually increase the efficiency of the converter. Since the use of nitrous is normally limited to 10-20 seconds of continuous use, there usually are no appreciable effects. Temperatures are typically well within acceptable standards.
Q: Can high compression engines utilize nitrous oxide?
A: Absolutely. High or low compression ratios can work quite suitably with nitrous oxide provided the proper balance of nitrous and fuel enrichment is maintained. Nitrous kits are used in applications from relatively low compression stock type motors to Pro-Modifieds, which often exceed 15 to 1. Generally, the higher the compression ratio, the more ignition retard, as well as higher octane fuel, is required.
Q: Can service station fuel be used for street/strip nitrous oxide applications?
A: Yes. Use of a premium type leaded or unleaded fuel of 92, or greater, octane is recommended for most applications. Many nitrous systems are designed for use with service station pump gas. However, when higher compression or higher horsepower levels are used, a racing fuel of 100 octane, or more, must be used.
Last edited by shortdog; 02-28-2015 at 06:24 PM.
01-15-2008, 03:55 PM
#2
Q: What type of cam is best suited for use with nitrous oxide?
A: Generally, cams that have less exhaust overlap and more exhaust duration. However, it is best to choose a cam tailored to normal use (when nitrous is not activated) since 99% of most vehicle operations is not at full throttle. There are special cam grinds available for nitrous competition which have more aggressive exhaust profile ramping, etc. Since cam selection depends largely on vehicle weight, gearing, etc., it is best to stick to cam manufacturers' recommendations for your particular goal.
Q: Should I modify my fuel system to use nitrous oxide?
A: Most stock fuel pumps will work adequately for smaller nitrous applications. It is important to check to see if your pump can flow enough fuel to your existing fuel system (whether carburetor or fuel injected), as well as being able to supply the additional fuel required by the nitrous kit under full throttle conditions. It may be a good idea to dedicate a separate fuel pump to the nitrous kit
Q: Which is the best position to mount a nitrous bottle?
A: Nitrous bottles come with siphon tubes and, in order to maintain proper nitrous pickup, it is important to mount the bottle correctly. We recommend mounting the bottle at a 15 degree angle with the valve end higher than the bottom of the bottle. The valve end of the bottle should point to the front of the vehicle and the valve **** and label should face straight up.
Q: How important is it to use nitrous and fuel filters in a kit?
A: Some of the most important components of any nitrous system are nitrous and fuel filters. To keep contaminants from attacking the solenoid or plugging up a jet, nitrous filters feature a special stainless steel mesh element from the aerospace industry.
Q: What are the advantages of using nitrous compared to other performance options?
A: The cost of many other performance options can put you in the poorhouse. Dollar for dollar, you can't buy more performance with less money than nitrous. With a nitrous system, performance and reliability can be had for a much more reasonable price while still retaining the advantage of a stock engine during normal driving. And, Nitrous offers tremendous gains in torque without having to rev the engine to excessive rpm's.
Q: How do I know how much nitrous is left in the bottle?
A: The most reliable method was is to weigh the bottle to determine how many pounds remain. When a bottle is near empty (about 20% or less nitrous remaining) a surging effect is normally felt.
Q: What is the function of the blow-off safety valve on the bottle?
A: It is very important not to overfill a bottle; i.e., a 10 lb. capacity bottle should not be filled with more than 10 lbs. of nitrous oxide by weight. Over-filling and/or too much heat can cause excessive bottle pressures forcing the safety seal to blow and releasing all the contents out of the bottle.
Q: Will I have to change my ignition system?
A: Most late model ignition systems are well suited for nitrous applications. NGK TR-6 plugs are recommended.
CAN YOU RUN NITROUS WITH A 6 SPEED CAR?
Yes. Just make sure that you have the correct safety equipment before you do so.
WOT Switch
Window Switch
FPSS
How do I hook up my MSD window switch to my 5177 kit?
MSD Window Switch Diagram on 5177 Kit
WOT - Wide Open Throttle Switch. It is placed inline with your arming switch, FPSS, and any other safety devices to activate your nitrous. This can be placed either near the throttle body or a momentary push button underneath the gas pedal for a stealth install.
Window Switch - Another wonderful (shouldn't be without) safety device. A must for a M6. It also installs inline with your FPSS, WOT, arming swithch, etc. The window switch does excatly what it says, it is a window for your nitrous to activate. Example. If you have you window switch setup for 3k and 6k, then the nitrous will only activate between those RPM's. It will come on at 3k and automatically shut off at 6k. (Providing it is wired correctly.) Some use pills while others just use dials or dip switches to set the corresponding RPM.
Tach Wire Location and Pin #'s (Pics)
Figure 3-5
Wet vs. Dry
These questions will come up alot, so I'll try to address them now. The main difference between the 2 is the Wet kit injects fuel AND nitrous into the intake tract, whereas the Dry kit will only inject nitrous. They both have their advantages and drawbacks. If you're new to nitrous, Dry is probably for you. Its very simple to install, mostly plug and play and gives the most hit. Wet kits are generally a smoother hit comparatively and require more installation. Dry kits do not inject more fuel into the intake directly, but if nothing else was done, your engine would lean WAY out, and thats never good. What the dry kit does is fool the fuel pressure regulator into thinking its not adding enough fuel. It opens it up (or closes it, however the LS1 works)[LSx platform uses the MAF to tell pcm to add fuel thru injectors, and LTx uses reg to spike fuel pressure with aux fuel pump. Robert56] and adds more fuel that way. The problem with this is its very easy to lean out. If the vaccuum line pops off or something goes wrong with the FPR, you can lose fuel and this can damage your engine in no time if the nitrous isnt turned off. Also, you'll probably get people telling you that you cant run big shots on dry. This is not true. USA Motorsports used to competitively race using a 2 stage dry kit 175-300.
Wet on the other hand is the most tuneable of the 2 (not including foggers or direct port, I'll go over that later). It adds additional fuel through a seperate solenoid and atomizes it with the nitrous in the intake tract. This is safer in the sense that you dont rely on the FPR to add more fuel, but the downside is if you shut down too early and do not stop spraying early enough, the fuel/nitrous mixture can puddle up inside the intake and cause a nitrous backfire. If you have never seen one, I hope you never do. They are not pretty. I had one in my old racecar. It was a 250 shot and it blew halfway down the track. The hood was toast, the intake was split in 3 pieces, TB cracked in half and the MAF was blown away somewhere and couldnt be found. Not fun. While this isnt a common occurance, it IS possable.
A: Generally, cams that have less exhaust overlap and more exhaust duration. However, it is best to choose a cam tailored to normal use (when nitrous is not activated) since 99% of most vehicle operations is not at full throttle. There are special cam grinds available for nitrous competition which have more aggressive exhaust profile ramping, etc. Since cam selection depends largely on vehicle weight, gearing, etc., it is best to stick to cam manufacturers' recommendations for your particular goal.
Q: Should I modify my fuel system to use nitrous oxide?
A: Most stock fuel pumps will work adequately for smaller nitrous applications. It is important to check to see if your pump can flow enough fuel to your existing fuel system (whether carburetor or fuel injected), as well as being able to supply the additional fuel required by the nitrous kit under full throttle conditions. It may be a good idea to dedicate a separate fuel pump to the nitrous kit
Q: Which is the best position to mount a nitrous bottle?
A: Nitrous bottles come with siphon tubes and, in order to maintain proper nitrous pickup, it is important to mount the bottle correctly. We recommend mounting the bottle at a 15 degree angle with the valve end higher than the bottom of the bottle. The valve end of the bottle should point to the front of the vehicle and the valve **** and label should face straight up.
Q: How important is it to use nitrous and fuel filters in a kit?
A: Some of the most important components of any nitrous system are nitrous and fuel filters. To keep contaminants from attacking the solenoid or plugging up a jet, nitrous filters feature a special stainless steel mesh element from the aerospace industry.
Q: What are the advantages of using nitrous compared to other performance options?
A: The cost of many other performance options can put you in the poorhouse. Dollar for dollar, you can't buy more performance with less money than nitrous. With a nitrous system, performance and reliability can be had for a much more reasonable price while still retaining the advantage of a stock engine during normal driving. And, Nitrous offers tremendous gains in torque without having to rev the engine to excessive rpm's.
Q: How do I know how much nitrous is left in the bottle?
A: The most reliable method was is to weigh the bottle to determine how many pounds remain. When a bottle is near empty (about 20% or less nitrous remaining) a surging effect is normally felt.
Q: What is the function of the blow-off safety valve on the bottle?
A: It is very important not to overfill a bottle; i.e., a 10 lb. capacity bottle should not be filled with more than 10 lbs. of nitrous oxide by weight. Over-filling and/or too much heat can cause excessive bottle pressures forcing the safety seal to blow and releasing all the contents out of the bottle.
Q: Will I have to change my ignition system?
A: Most late model ignition systems are well suited for nitrous applications. NGK TR-6 plugs are recommended.
CAN YOU RUN NITROUS WITH A 6 SPEED CAR?
Yes. Just make sure that you have the correct safety equipment before you do so.
WOT Switch
Window Switch
FPSS
How do I hook up my MSD window switch to my 5177 kit?
MSD Window Switch Diagram on 5177 Kit
WOT - Wide Open Throttle Switch. It is placed inline with your arming switch, FPSS, and any other safety devices to activate your nitrous. This can be placed either near the throttle body or a momentary push button underneath the gas pedal for a stealth install.
Window Switch - Another wonderful (shouldn't be without) safety device. A must for a M6. It also installs inline with your FPSS, WOT, arming swithch, etc. The window switch does excatly what it says, it is a window for your nitrous to activate. Example. If you have you window switch setup for 3k and 6k, then the nitrous will only activate between those RPM's. It will come on at 3k and automatically shut off at 6k. (Providing it is wired correctly.) Some use pills while others just use dials or dip switches to set the corresponding RPM.
Tach Wire Location and Pin #'s (Pics)
Figure 3-5
Wet vs. Dry
These questions will come up alot, so I'll try to address them now. The main difference between the 2 is the Wet kit injects fuel AND nitrous into the intake tract, whereas the Dry kit will only inject nitrous. They both have their advantages and drawbacks. If you're new to nitrous, Dry is probably for you. Its very simple to install, mostly plug and play and gives the most hit. Wet kits are generally a smoother hit comparatively and require more installation. Dry kits do not inject more fuel into the intake directly, but if nothing else was done, your engine would lean WAY out, and thats never good. What the dry kit does is fool the fuel pressure regulator into thinking its not adding enough fuel. It opens it up (or closes it, however the LS1 works)[LSx platform uses the MAF to tell pcm to add fuel thru injectors, and LTx uses reg to spike fuel pressure with aux fuel pump. Robert56] and adds more fuel that way. The problem with this is its very easy to lean out. If the vaccuum line pops off or something goes wrong with the FPR, you can lose fuel and this can damage your engine in no time if the nitrous isnt turned off. Also, you'll probably get people telling you that you cant run big shots on dry. This is not true. USA Motorsports used to competitively race using a 2 stage dry kit 175-300.
Wet on the other hand is the most tuneable of the 2 (not including foggers or direct port, I'll go over that later). It adds additional fuel through a seperate solenoid and atomizes it with the nitrous in the intake tract. This is safer in the sense that you dont rely on the FPR to add more fuel, but the downside is if you shut down too early and do not stop spraying early enough, the fuel/nitrous mixture can puddle up inside the intake and cause a nitrous backfire. If you have never seen one, I hope you never do. They are not pretty. I had one in my old racecar. It was a 250 shot and it blew halfway down the track. The hood was toast, the intake was split in 3 pieces, TB cracked in half and the MAF was blown away somewhere and couldnt be found. Not fun. While this isnt a common occurance, it IS possable.
Last edited by dlove; 09-15-2008 at 02:28 PM.
01-15-2008, 03:56 PM
#3
What is a Purge Valve?
This comes up alot, especially with the newer nitrous junkies. Purge is probably the most un-necessary part of a nitrous system. Its more useful in a Wet application so the fuel and nitrous get to the nozzle at the same time, but its still not mandatory unless youre running a large shot or need that extra .01 sec. All a Purge does is clear the air between the bottle and the solenoids. That being said, its best to put the Purge solenoid as close to the nitrous solenoid as possable to get rid of as much air as you can. But at 1200psi, the nitrous isnt moving that slow, so its not going to take long to clear that air on it's own anyway. If you havent purchased one, dont yet. Add this last to your kit and get something more useful now like a warmer or a window switch. If you already have one or nobody can talk you out of it, dont overuse it. Nothing will make you look like a ricer faster then someone who purges whenever they pull up somewhere. Thats like taking a gallon of your gas and pouring it on the ground. At ~$2.00/lb, nitrous isnt cheap. Why waste it? The ONLY time you should need to purge is right before staging at the strip. A couple short bursts is all it takes. Once you see the white gas come out, thats enough. Purging more then that is the equivalent to doing a John Force burnout on BFGs. And PLEASE PLEASE DONT buy the bottle and a purge valve only. I was flipping through 5.0 Mustang mag this week and saw an advertisment for a kit (NX I believe) that was just a bottle and a purge valve... :dance:
How will nitrous work on a high milage motor?
It all depends on how it's maintained. On my first 5.0, I had over 200k on the clock and was spraying a 100 dry shot at the track. I didnt have much blowby, so it was safe. My motor did die, but not because of the nitrous. My oil pump shaft broke. But as long as the motor isnt beat to hell, nitrous should be ok on it.
Why nitrous?
Forced induction guys will always give us hell because we have to turn ours on, but thats the beauty. Nitrous is GREAT for a daily driver. You can drive a 350hp car around every day making 27mpg and go to work/school/mall/ect and have fun. Go to the track, flip a switch, BAM, 150 more horses. Now youre racing with ~500hp on a car that can be driven daily with confidence. Also, you can run higher compression. Nitrous loves high compression motors. Nitrous motors generally make the best street cars because of this. With turbos or blowers, sure you can turn down the boost or pulley down, but even then, you still have a hot air charge (even with an intercooler, the air is hot enough to cook an egg) and most blown motors have low compression. Low boost on a low compression motor=no fun
What do I need with the kit?
This depends on what you get. Most people will get a simple Wet or Dry kit. If youre getting a fogger or direct port, I hope you dont have to read FAQ. You can custom build your own kit, but if this is your first, I suggest buying a pre-packaged one. TNT is good, so are NOS and NX. There is also Zex. Some love it, some hate it. I'll stay away from it and tune my nitrous myself. A prepackaged kit should come with a Bottle, Nitrous feed line, proper solenoids (type depending on the kit wet/dry), power relay for the solenoids, jet(s), AN fittings, nitrous injection line, nozzle, and a bottle bracket. This is the bare minimum. It will work, but not as well as a nicely modified kit. First, before you can even think about running, you have to find out what your track rules are. If they have NHRA rules, you will need a blowdown tube for your bottle. This evacuates the nitrous out of the car in the even the valve on the bottle fails. If you have a convertable, you wont need it since the bottle is not in the passenger compartment, but its still recomended. Next is a bottle warmer. If you want the most out of your kit, this is what you need. This will keep your bottle at a fixed pressure so you have consistent results. Without a warmer, nitrous is near impossable to tune because when you first fill the bottle, you might have 900psi, but after a couple runs you might be down to 750psi. A warmer will SAFELY warm the bottle to raise the pressure to 900psi again. A warmer kit will come with a relay. USE IT! This will help keep it from overheating. Seperately from nitrous components, you will need colder plugs with a smaller gap. 1 or 2 ranges colder is usually acceptable for a shot on a stock motor.
What can I add to it?
There are so many things you can add to a nitrous kit. A few are a window switch, timing ****, activation switches, purge, opener, etc.
A window switch will only allow the system to engage inside a certain RPM window. You NEVER want to spray in the low RPM, this is very bad for the motor. Generally wait until at least 2000rpm. The window switch is useful for keeping the timing of the injection in check. If you miss a shift and nail the gas, the nitrous will re-engage and damage the motor. if you have it pilled from 2000-6500, the nitrous will shut off when the motor reaches 6500rpm. A timing **** is used to retard the timing without getting out of the car. It is used in conjunction with an ignition box and will allow you to adjust the timing easily. If you are running N/A, you can have the timing advanced. But if you go to the track and are going to spray, just twist the **** back to take some timing out of it and youre good to go. There are various activation switches used with a nitrous kit. First is the arming switch. Without this on, nothing will happen (unless you suck at wiring). But to actually fire the nitrous system, you can use a WOT (Wide open throttle) switch or a push botton. These are the 2 most common used. A WOT switch only fires when the pedal is on the floor. That way if the nitrous is armed, with or without a window switch, nothing will happen until the pedal gets to the floor. A push button is just that. When you push it, the nitrous fires. A remote opener is ideal for the street. Its not very useful at the track since you usually have prep time, but on the street you dont. Im not endorsing street racing, but if you do, a remote opener is for you. It allows you to keep the actual valve of the bottle open without keeping pressure on the solenoids. If you pull up next to someone who wants to race, just flip a switch to open up the bottle and youre ready to go.
Here are some general DOs and DON'Ts with N2O
-DO keep the bottle pressure constant when in use
-DON'T use anything less then Premium Unleaded
-DO run a fuel pressure safety switch on a Dry nitrous kit
-DON'T always go by the jetting listed on websites
-DO learn to read the plug's heat range and tune it yourself
-DON'T open the bottle and leave it for long periods of time, the pressure is bad for the solenoids
-DO always purge off the excess N2O after shutting off the bottle for the day
Push System
regulator that can control that pressure can get pricey. I have a few at home. Usually in the $200-400 range depeing on brand and specs. I used to just use a regulator but the regulator itself is a flow restriction that hinders recovery time when spraying large shots.
So i switched form the regulator method the a pressure switch.solinoid method that was cheaper and somewhats easier.
It goes like this:
You need a nitrous bottle with a valve that has ports in the nech that are open to the top of the bottle internally. Seperate from the pickup tube. This will aloow nitrous pressure to be deliverd to the top of the liquid and not interfere with the delivery of the nitrous out the pickup tube at the bottom.
If you have one port you will need to Tee it off so that a pressure switch such as the dynotune pressure switch used in theie autmatic bottle heater setups can be used. You can get the switch only from dynotune for about $40. That switch will be open to the pressure in the neck.
You will need a bottle about equal to the size of the nitrous bottle you are running. That will keep you from having to use too high of a practical pressure in the nitrogen bottle to drive an entire nitrous bottle out. in between the nitrogen bottle and the nitrous bottle you need a Dedenbear C02 noid PN 302ABSOV. You can get that from Jegs or summit for about $130. That noid will control the flow of nitrogen from the nitrogen bottle into the nitrous bottle when the pressure gets below the setpoint of the pressure switch.
So...when its all setup you have a nitrogen bottle at 2000 psi. You have a fully serviced nitrous bottle at say 800 psi at 70 degrees. We obviously want more pressure. So You flip the switch sending the power to the pressure switch. The contacts are closed since the pressure in the nitrous bottle is at 800 psi which is below the 1050 psi that you have set your pressure switch to. That sends power to the noid....opening it. Nitrogen flows from the nitrogen bottle to the nitrous bottle building a head pressure above the nitrous. When the pressure in the nitrous bottle reaches 1050 psi the contacts open on the pressure switch removing power from the noid...the noid closes..nitrogen stops flowing. You are now set at 1050 psi and your system is awaiting any pressure drop in the nitrous bottle. As soon as it drops below the pressure switch setting of 1050 +/- approz 25 psi the system will again replenish the nitrous bottle.
It can also be setup to be controlled my the MaximizerII as well in the same manner.
This comes up alot, especially with the newer nitrous junkies. Purge is probably the most un-necessary part of a nitrous system. Its more useful in a Wet application so the fuel and nitrous get to the nozzle at the same time, but its still not mandatory unless youre running a large shot or need that extra .01 sec. All a Purge does is clear the air between the bottle and the solenoids. That being said, its best to put the Purge solenoid as close to the nitrous solenoid as possable to get rid of as much air as you can. But at 1200psi, the nitrous isnt moving that slow, so its not going to take long to clear that air on it's own anyway. If you havent purchased one, dont yet. Add this last to your kit and get something more useful now like a warmer or a window switch. If you already have one or nobody can talk you out of it, dont overuse it. Nothing will make you look like a ricer faster then someone who purges whenever they pull up somewhere. Thats like taking a gallon of your gas and pouring it on the ground. At ~$2.00/lb, nitrous isnt cheap. Why waste it? The ONLY time you should need to purge is right before staging at the strip. A couple short bursts is all it takes. Once you see the white gas come out, thats enough. Purging more then that is the equivalent to doing a John Force burnout on BFGs. And PLEASE PLEASE DONT buy the bottle and a purge valve only. I was flipping through 5.0 Mustang mag this week and saw an advertisment for a kit (NX I believe) that was just a bottle and a purge valve... :dance:
How will nitrous work on a high milage motor?
It all depends on how it's maintained. On my first 5.0, I had over 200k on the clock and was spraying a 100 dry shot at the track. I didnt have much blowby, so it was safe. My motor did die, but not because of the nitrous. My oil pump shaft broke. But as long as the motor isnt beat to hell, nitrous should be ok on it.
Why nitrous?
Forced induction guys will always give us hell because we have to turn ours on, but thats the beauty. Nitrous is GREAT for a daily driver. You can drive a 350hp car around every day making 27mpg and go to work/school/mall/ect and have fun. Go to the track, flip a switch, BAM, 150 more horses. Now youre racing with ~500hp on a car that can be driven daily with confidence. Also, you can run higher compression. Nitrous loves high compression motors. Nitrous motors generally make the best street cars because of this. With turbos or blowers, sure you can turn down the boost or pulley down, but even then, you still have a hot air charge (even with an intercooler, the air is hot enough to cook an egg) and most blown motors have low compression. Low boost on a low compression motor=no fun
What do I need with the kit?
This depends on what you get. Most people will get a simple Wet or Dry kit. If youre getting a fogger or direct port, I hope you dont have to read FAQ. You can custom build your own kit, but if this is your first, I suggest buying a pre-packaged one. TNT is good, so are NOS and NX. There is also Zex. Some love it, some hate it. I'll stay away from it and tune my nitrous myself. A prepackaged kit should come with a Bottle, Nitrous feed line, proper solenoids (type depending on the kit wet/dry), power relay for the solenoids, jet(s), AN fittings, nitrous injection line, nozzle, and a bottle bracket. This is the bare minimum. It will work, but not as well as a nicely modified kit. First, before you can even think about running, you have to find out what your track rules are. If they have NHRA rules, you will need a blowdown tube for your bottle. This evacuates the nitrous out of the car in the even the valve on the bottle fails. If you have a convertable, you wont need it since the bottle is not in the passenger compartment, but its still recomended. Next is a bottle warmer. If you want the most out of your kit, this is what you need. This will keep your bottle at a fixed pressure so you have consistent results. Without a warmer, nitrous is near impossable to tune because when you first fill the bottle, you might have 900psi, but after a couple runs you might be down to 750psi. A warmer will SAFELY warm the bottle to raise the pressure to 900psi again. A warmer kit will come with a relay. USE IT! This will help keep it from overheating. Seperately from nitrous components, you will need colder plugs with a smaller gap. 1 or 2 ranges colder is usually acceptable for a shot on a stock motor.
What can I add to it?
There are so many things you can add to a nitrous kit. A few are a window switch, timing ****, activation switches, purge, opener, etc.
A window switch will only allow the system to engage inside a certain RPM window. You NEVER want to spray in the low RPM, this is very bad for the motor. Generally wait until at least 2000rpm. The window switch is useful for keeping the timing of the injection in check. If you miss a shift and nail the gas, the nitrous will re-engage and damage the motor. if you have it pilled from 2000-6500, the nitrous will shut off when the motor reaches 6500rpm. A timing **** is used to retard the timing without getting out of the car. It is used in conjunction with an ignition box and will allow you to adjust the timing easily. If you are running N/A, you can have the timing advanced. But if you go to the track and are going to spray, just twist the **** back to take some timing out of it and youre good to go. There are various activation switches used with a nitrous kit. First is the arming switch. Without this on, nothing will happen (unless you suck at wiring). But to actually fire the nitrous system, you can use a WOT (Wide open throttle) switch or a push botton. These are the 2 most common used. A WOT switch only fires when the pedal is on the floor. That way if the nitrous is armed, with or without a window switch, nothing will happen until the pedal gets to the floor. A push button is just that. When you push it, the nitrous fires. A remote opener is ideal for the street. Its not very useful at the track since you usually have prep time, but on the street you dont. Im not endorsing street racing, but if you do, a remote opener is for you. It allows you to keep the actual valve of the bottle open without keeping pressure on the solenoids. If you pull up next to someone who wants to race, just flip a switch to open up the bottle and youre ready to go.
Here are some general DOs and DON'Ts with N2O
-DO keep the bottle pressure constant when in use
-DON'T use anything less then Premium Unleaded
-DO run a fuel pressure safety switch on a Dry nitrous kit
-DON'T always go by the jetting listed on websites
-DO learn to read the plug's heat range and tune it yourself
-DON'T open the bottle and leave it for long periods of time, the pressure is bad for the solenoids
-DO always purge off the excess N2O after shutting off the bottle for the day
Push System
regulator that can control that pressure can get pricey. I have a few at home. Usually in the $200-400 range depeing on brand and specs. I used to just use a regulator but the regulator itself is a flow restriction that hinders recovery time when spraying large shots.
So i switched form the regulator method the a pressure switch.solinoid method that was cheaper and somewhats easier.
It goes like this:
You need a nitrous bottle with a valve that has ports in the nech that are open to the top of the bottle internally. Seperate from the pickup tube. This will aloow nitrous pressure to be deliverd to the top of the liquid and not interfere with the delivery of the nitrous out the pickup tube at the bottom.
If you have one port you will need to Tee it off so that a pressure switch such as the dynotune pressure switch used in theie autmatic bottle heater setups can be used. You can get the switch only from dynotune for about $40. That switch will be open to the pressure in the neck.
You will need a bottle about equal to the size of the nitrous bottle you are running. That will keep you from having to use too high of a practical pressure in the nitrogen bottle to drive an entire nitrous bottle out. in between the nitrogen bottle and the nitrous bottle you need a Dedenbear C02 noid PN 302ABSOV. You can get that from Jegs or summit for about $130. That noid will control the flow of nitrogen from the nitrogen bottle into the nitrous bottle when the pressure gets below the setpoint of the pressure switch.
So...when its all setup you have a nitrogen bottle at 2000 psi. You have a fully serviced nitrous bottle at say 800 psi at 70 degrees. We obviously want more pressure. So You flip the switch sending the power to the pressure switch. The contacts are closed since the pressure in the nitrous bottle is at 800 psi which is below the 1050 psi that you have set your pressure switch to. That sends power to the noid....opening it. Nitrogen flows from the nitrogen bottle to the nitrous bottle building a head pressure above the nitrous. When the pressure in the nitrous bottle reaches 1050 psi the contacts open on the pressure switch removing power from the noid...the noid closes..nitrogen stops flowing. You are now set at 1050 psi and your system is awaiting any pressure drop in the nitrous bottle. As soon as it drops below the pressure switch setting of 1050 +/- approz 25 psi the system will again replenish the nitrous bottle.
It can also be setup to be controlled my the MaximizerII as well in the same manner.
Last edited by dlove; 09-15-2008 at 02:29 PM.
01-15-2008, 03:56 PM
#4
Jet interchange:
NX (Fat stem style): NX, ZEX, Nitrous works, TNT, Ny-Trex, Compu-Car
NOS(thin stem style): NOS, Edelbrock, Cold Fusion, Speedtech, dynotune
It is also important to note that cold fusion makes them in both sizes if you need them.
Note: The fuel jetting from the charts is just a reference point and are usually jetted on the rich side. The correct way to get an optimal N/F ratio is by reading plugs and/or a wideband.
Master Jet List
JET CALCULATOR-
http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm
NX Ls1 jetting list from NX website RWHP RATED....GM Stg.1 EFI system, part number 20920
Single jet
50HP 35N 18F
75HP 41N 22F
100HP 52N 28F
150HP 62N 33F
NOS jetting 5177 kit DRY FLYWHEEL RATED 900-1000psi rated
Dual jets
75HP 28N
85HP 30N
100HP 32N
NOS jetting 5168 kit wet for LS1 RWHP RATED 900-1000psi rated
single jet plate system
75HP 41N 28F
100HP 51N 31F
125HP 55N 35F
150HP 63N 38F
TNT wet kit for power ring RWHP RATED 900psi bottle 60psi fuel -6an feed
dual jets
100HP 35N 22F
150HP 42N 25F
200HP 51N 28F
250HP 55N 31F
300HP 63N 35F
350HP 67N 39F
This is another NOS chart from the COLONEL
HP-- Single N2O--Dual N2O--Single Fuel
25 .024
30 .026
35 .028 .020
50 .037 .024 .020
75 .042 .028 .022
100 .047 .032 .025
125 .055 .038 .029
150 .063 .044 .034
175 .070 .052 .038
200 .082 .047 .044
250 .093 .055 .050
DynoTune Dry Kit HP numbers based on 950 PSI
Single Dry Jetting DynoTune Kit
50 BHP=.032
75 BHP=.042
100 BHP=.048
Dual Dry Shot Jetting
50 RWHP=.026
75 RWHP=.032
100 RWHP=.036
here is a rough quick conversion for single to dual and dual to single jets
as per Robert56
" here's the math for turning single size jets into dual jets (it's not half size) single jet x .71 = dual jet size.
Example of your first single jet,
.062 x .71 = dual .043's, which is 147.5crank hp, or 125.375rwhp, as per NOS's way.
Also, the Colonels table is NOS fwhp at 950psi and the 100 crank is actually dual .033 and nos used to send a .032 and a .034, that's what I got on my first 5177 and the math backs it up.
Here is the math for converting dual jets into single jets:
(.71 x size of one jet) x 2 = single jet size"
NX (Fat stem style): NX, ZEX, Nitrous works, TNT, Ny-Trex, Compu-Car
NOS(thin stem style): NOS, Edelbrock, Cold Fusion, Speedtech, dynotune
It is also important to note that cold fusion makes them in both sizes if you need them.
Note: The fuel jetting from the charts is just a reference point and are usually jetted on the rich side. The correct way to get an optimal N/F ratio is by reading plugs and/or a wideband.
Master Jet List
JET CALCULATOR-
http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm
NX Ls1 jetting list from NX website RWHP RATED....GM Stg.1 EFI system, part number 20920
Single jet
50HP 35N 18F
75HP 41N 22F
100HP 52N 28F
150HP 62N 33F
NOS jetting 5177 kit DRY FLYWHEEL RATED 900-1000psi rated
Dual jets
75HP 28N
85HP 30N
100HP 32N
NOS jetting 5168 kit wet for LS1 RWHP RATED 900-1000psi rated
single jet plate system
75HP 41N 28F
100HP 51N 31F
125HP 55N 35F
150HP 63N 38F
TNT wet kit for power ring RWHP RATED 900psi bottle 60psi fuel -6an feed
dual jets
100HP 35N 22F
150HP 42N 25F
200HP 51N 28F
250HP 55N 31F
300HP 63N 35F
350HP 67N 39F
This is another NOS chart from the COLONEL
HP-- Single N2O--Dual N2O--Single Fuel
25 .024
30 .026
35 .028 .020
50 .037 .024 .020
75 .042 .028 .022
100 .047 .032 .025
125 .055 .038 .029
150 .063 .044 .034
175 .070 .052 .038
200 .082 .047 .044
250 .093 .055 .050
DynoTune Dry Kit HP numbers based on 950 PSI
Single Dry Jetting DynoTune Kit
50 BHP=.032
75 BHP=.042
100 BHP=.048
Dual Dry Shot Jetting
50 RWHP=.026
75 RWHP=.032
100 RWHP=.036
here is a rough quick conversion for single to dual and dual to single jets
as per Robert56
" here's the math for turning single size jets into dual jets (it's not half size) single jet x .71 = dual jet size.
Example of your first single jet,
.062 x .71 = dual .043's, which is 147.5crank hp, or 125.375rwhp, as per NOS's way.
Also, the Colonels table is NOS fwhp at 950psi and the 100 crank is actually dual .033 and nos used to send a .032 and a .034, that's what I got on my first 5177 and the math backs it up.
Here is the math for converting dual jets into single jets:
(.71 x size of one jet) x 2 = single jet size"
Last edited by shortdog; 03-03-2015 at 05:13 PM.
01-15-2008, 03:57 PM
#5
Here is a list of the major nitrous accessories and their uses. Hope this answers some questions.
1. Bottle Heater: Bottle pressure is very important to a proper operating nitrous system. We suggest tuning your Nitrous Outlet system with a bottle pressure of 950 to 1050 PSI. A bottle heater will be needed to keep your system at the needed pressure so that the nitrous flows correctly. As it cools off outside creating a chill on the bottle or you start to use your system your bottle pressure will drop causing your engine to bog and lose horsepower.
2. Purge: The purge system is needed for more than producing a cool show for your buddies. A purge kit is needed to evacuate the air/nitrous vapor from the main feed line. This will eliminate the system from bogging the engine due to the fuel hitting before the nitrous, causing the engine to go rich upon the initial hit. By purging the air from the main feed line you will improve 60-foot times and have a harder hitting nitrous system. The purge kit can also be used to purge down excessive bottle pressure.
3. Nitrous Pressure Gauge: since knowing your bottle pressure is very important you will need a nitrous pressure gauge in order to watch bottle pressure. Nitrous Outlet offers a nitrous pressure gauge that mounts to the bottle as well as in the cockpit of the vehicle.
4. Fuel Pressure Gauge: being aware of the fuel pressure is the best way to know the limits of the fuel system. By monitoring the fuel pressure you will know if the fuel system is being extended. Nitrous Outlet offers mechanical gauges to mount in the engine compartment as well as electrical gauges to go in the cockpit of your vehicle.
5. Fuel Pressure Safety Switch: The fuel pressure safety switch is a safety device that is designed to shut off the nitrous system in the event of fuel pump failure. This switch is pressure controlled and will wire in conjunction to the systems relay. In the event the fuel pump fails it will break the ground source to the system relay.
6. TPS Activation Switch: Most late model fuel injected applications are drive by wire (NO THROTTLE CABLE). These applications require a TPS activation switch in order to activate your nitrous system at wide-open throttle. The activation switch works by reading the throttle position sensors voltage.
7. Window Safety Switch: The window safety switch is designed to keep you from spraying under to low of a rpm or over revving your engine. The window switch gives you two settings, an activation rpm and a deactivation rpm. You will set the activation point to at least 3000 RPM. When the system is activated, the TPS or wide-open throttle switch sees wide-open throttle it will complete the positive circuit to the systems relay. The window switch will read the engine RPM. When it rises to the set RPM on the window switch, the switch will supply ground to the systems relay, completing the circuit and firing the solenoids. In the incident the driver misses a gear, transmission slips, rear end or driveshaft breaks causing the engine to over rev the window switch will take away the ground to the solenoids at the set RPM on the switch shutting off the nitrous system. We suggest setting the deactivation RPM for the window switch at the shift point or 200 to 300 RPM before rev limiter.
8. NHRA Valve & Blow Down Tube: In order to meet NHRA requirements you must use a blow down tube if the bottle is located in the vehicle. In order to adapt the blow down tube to the bottle you will need a NHRA approved blow off valve. This valve is threaded on both ends creating an external thread for the blow down tube to screw on. The blow down tube is designed to evacuate the nitrous from the bottle outside the vehicle in the case that the safety disc bursts.
9. Nitrous Filter: The nitrous filter is used to filter any trash or contaminants from entering your nitrous solenoid.
10. Remote Bottle Opener: With the remote bottle opener you can open and close the bottle with out ever leaving the comforts of the driver seat.
1. Bottle Heater: Bottle pressure is very important to a proper operating nitrous system. We suggest tuning your Nitrous Outlet system with a bottle pressure of 950 to 1050 PSI. A bottle heater will be needed to keep your system at the needed pressure so that the nitrous flows correctly. As it cools off outside creating a chill on the bottle or you start to use your system your bottle pressure will drop causing your engine to bog and lose horsepower.
2. Purge: The purge system is needed for more than producing a cool show for your buddies. A purge kit is needed to evacuate the air/nitrous vapor from the main feed line. This will eliminate the system from bogging the engine due to the fuel hitting before the nitrous, causing the engine to go rich upon the initial hit. By purging the air from the main feed line you will improve 60-foot times and have a harder hitting nitrous system. The purge kit can also be used to purge down excessive bottle pressure.
3. Nitrous Pressure Gauge: since knowing your bottle pressure is very important you will need a nitrous pressure gauge in order to watch bottle pressure. Nitrous Outlet offers a nitrous pressure gauge that mounts to the bottle as well as in the cockpit of the vehicle.
4. Fuel Pressure Gauge: being aware of the fuel pressure is the best way to know the limits of the fuel system. By monitoring the fuel pressure you will know if the fuel system is being extended. Nitrous Outlet offers mechanical gauges to mount in the engine compartment as well as electrical gauges to go in the cockpit of your vehicle.
5. Fuel Pressure Safety Switch: The fuel pressure safety switch is a safety device that is designed to shut off the nitrous system in the event of fuel pump failure. This switch is pressure controlled and will wire in conjunction to the systems relay. In the event the fuel pump fails it will break the ground source to the system relay.
6. TPS Activation Switch: Most late model fuel injected applications are drive by wire (NO THROTTLE CABLE). These applications require a TPS activation switch in order to activate your nitrous system at wide-open throttle. The activation switch works by reading the throttle position sensors voltage.
7. Window Safety Switch: The window safety switch is designed to keep you from spraying under to low of a rpm or over revving your engine. The window switch gives you two settings, an activation rpm and a deactivation rpm. You will set the activation point to at least 3000 RPM. When the system is activated, the TPS or wide-open throttle switch sees wide-open throttle it will complete the positive circuit to the systems relay. The window switch will read the engine RPM. When it rises to the set RPM on the window switch, the switch will supply ground to the systems relay, completing the circuit and firing the solenoids. In the incident the driver misses a gear, transmission slips, rear end or driveshaft breaks causing the engine to over rev the window switch will take away the ground to the solenoids at the set RPM on the switch shutting off the nitrous system. We suggest setting the deactivation RPM for the window switch at the shift point or 200 to 300 RPM before rev limiter.
8. NHRA Valve & Blow Down Tube: In order to meet NHRA requirements you must use a blow down tube if the bottle is located in the vehicle. In order to adapt the blow down tube to the bottle you will need a NHRA approved blow off valve. This valve is threaded on both ends creating an external thread for the blow down tube to screw on. The blow down tube is designed to evacuate the nitrous from the bottle outside the vehicle in the case that the safety disc bursts.
9. Nitrous Filter: The nitrous filter is used to filter any trash or contaminants from entering your nitrous solenoid.
10. Remote Bottle Opener: With the remote bottle opener you can open and close the bottle with out ever leaving the comforts of the driver seat.
Last edited by dlove; 09-15-2008 at 02:47 PM.
01-15-2008, 03:58 PM
#6
Common electrical problems/cures: (troubleshooting)
FORWARD: CLOSE BOTTLE VALVE WHILE PERFORMING DIAGNOSTICS ON SYSTEM. MOST DIAGNOSTICS WILL BE DONE WITH KEY “ON” BUT ENGINE NOT RUNNING. IT’S ALSO ADVISABLE TO RELIEVE (PURGE) ANY N2O IN THE LINE AFTER YOU CLOSE THE BOTTLE VALVE. FUEL PRESSURE STAYS IN THE LINE FOR QUITE A WHILE AFTER THE KEY IS OFF. IT ALSO STARTS PRESSURE WHEN THE KEY IS ON. IF YOU HAVE A WET SYSTEM, DISCONNECT THE WIRES TO THE FUEL SOLENOID SO IT CANNOT ACTIVATE DURING DIAGNOSTICS.
Problem: Switches light up, but solenoid(s) won’t open
1. Bypass the FPSS switch by placing a jumper a wire across the two terminals. Do the same with the WOT micro switch (if you have a mechanical switch). If you’ve used a Window Switch, you’ll have to jumper that one too. Now the solenoid should activate directly with your on/off switch.
a. If not, check the 12v to the relay. Once again, it should show 12v with your on/off switch.
b. If no 12v to relay, go back over your wiring and check fuses. Make sure you’re bypassing the WOT, FPSS, and Window Switches.
2. If you’re getting the relay to engage, but not the solenoid, check the power / ground to the solenoid.
COMMON MISTAKE HERE: Most non electrical people don’t think about wire gauge and current carrying capacity. Solenoids can draw upward of 20 amps instantaneously. Most starters draw twice that. Look at your starter wire and think of ½ that. DO NOT gang the two solenoid wires together and then run ONE wire to ground. (unless you’re using 10 awg wire or thicker). It’s best just to run TWO 12 awg. wires with lugs to a common (well cleaned) ground point. GROUND IS THE MOST IMPORTANT AND LEAST TENDED TO CONNECTION. Also, long wire lengths loose capacity. If you’re running long lengths, get bigger wire. Figure one size bigger on the wire for every 5-7 feet.
Problem: System Activates, but then shuts off:
1. This can be caused by any one of the “cut off” switches. Easiest thing to do is bypass them (wot, fpss, ws) and then put them back in-line one at a time. Check:
a. Fuel Pressure, and activation pressure on your fpss. Maybe it’s set too low. You can check it with an air compressor and a DVM.
b. WOT switch position (and make sure you’re using the correct TWO terminals. Usually “COM” and “NO”.
c. Window switch rpm settings. Even for testing, set it above 1500 (on) and have 200-300 rpm difference (off).
2. Go back and read #2 above and make sure you’ve used sufficient wire gauge for solenoids. Insufficient wire capability = no worky.
Problem: System "pulses" on/off like surging.
1. If the jetting is correct, and you suspect the problem being electrical, it could be the same as above, it's just turning on, then off, then on etc.
Problem: Blows fuses every time it’s activated:
1. This one is usually easy to find. Open your switch panel and do a continuity check between power and ground. You’ll probably find a direct short. What seems to happen a lot is that people get confused with the WOT switch and the FPSS switch. These switches are NOT power and ground switches. They are a “connect / disconnect” switch. There should never be power on one side and ground on the other. Most of the schematics shown in the stickies show these switches breaking the ground side of the circuit. Like taking a wire, cutting into two pieces (disconnect) and then connecting the two together again (connect).
2. Another possibility is that you have too many devices (heater, solenoids) running off one fuse. Heaters are 8 or more AMPS by themselves. If you have a 200 watt heater, it’s drawing 17 amps. (p=e*i).
3. Lastly, you may have the switch wired incorrectly. Check to see that COM (usually middle but not always) is NOT connected to power OR ground. The COM terminal should go to the device you’re controlling, ie: relay, heater (or heater relay if used) etc.
Problem: My switches are getting HOT!!!
1. You’re drawing too much power through the switch. Put a relay on the line. See relay operation attachment below. Switches have a rating, usually 5-15 amps.
2. Get a switch with an LED in it instead of a light bulb. Cheap switches have light bulbs in them and they get hot.
When performing diagnostics on your system, a 12v light probe is extremely handy here because you can see the light from inside the car. This may show a 12v connection but it WILL NOT tell you that the wire is sufficient for the current you’re trying to put through it. Think of it like a river.. the “voltage” is like the river’s width/depth. It’s the “amount” of water. The current is the amount of “flow”. If you restrict the flow, you just won’t get all the water from one side to the other. (no worky)
FORWARD: CLOSE BOTTLE VALVE WHILE PERFORMING DIAGNOSTICS ON SYSTEM. MOST DIAGNOSTICS WILL BE DONE WITH KEY “ON” BUT ENGINE NOT RUNNING. IT’S ALSO ADVISABLE TO RELIEVE (PURGE) ANY N2O IN THE LINE AFTER YOU CLOSE THE BOTTLE VALVE. FUEL PRESSURE STAYS IN THE LINE FOR QUITE A WHILE AFTER THE KEY IS OFF. IT ALSO STARTS PRESSURE WHEN THE KEY IS ON. IF YOU HAVE A WET SYSTEM, DISCONNECT THE WIRES TO THE FUEL SOLENOID SO IT CANNOT ACTIVATE DURING DIAGNOSTICS.
Problem: Switches light up, but solenoid(s) won’t open
1. Bypass the FPSS switch by placing a jumper a wire across the two terminals. Do the same with the WOT micro switch (if you have a mechanical switch). If you’ve used a Window Switch, you’ll have to jumper that one too. Now the solenoid should activate directly with your on/off switch.
a. If not, check the 12v to the relay. Once again, it should show 12v with your on/off switch.
b. If no 12v to relay, go back over your wiring and check fuses. Make sure you’re bypassing the WOT, FPSS, and Window Switches.
2. If you’re getting the relay to engage, but not the solenoid, check the power / ground to the solenoid.
COMMON MISTAKE HERE: Most non electrical people don’t think about wire gauge and current carrying capacity. Solenoids can draw upward of 20 amps instantaneously. Most starters draw twice that. Look at your starter wire and think of ½ that. DO NOT gang the two solenoid wires together and then run ONE wire to ground. (unless you’re using 10 awg wire or thicker). It’s best just to run TWO 12 awg. wires with lugs to a common (well cleaned) ground point. GROUND IS THE MOST IMPORTANT AND LEAST TENDED TO CONNECTION. Also, long wire lengths loose capacity. If you’re running long lengths, get bigger wire. Figure one size bigger on the wire for every 5-7 feet.
Problem: System Activates, but then shuts off:
1. This can be caused by any one of the “cut off” switches. Easiest thing to do is bypass them (wot, fpss, ws) and then put them back in-line one at a time. Check:
a. Fuel Pressure, and activation pressure on your fpss. Maybe it’s set too low. You can check it with an air compressor and a DVM.
b. WOT switch position (and make sure you’re using the correct TWO terminals. Usually “COM” and “NO”.
c. Window switch rpm settings. Even for testing, set it above 1500 (on) and have 200-300 rpm difference (off).
2. Go back and read #2 above and make sure you’ve used sufficient wire gauge for solenoids. Insufficient wire capability = no worky.
Problem: System "pulses" on/off like surging.
1. If the jetting is correct, and you suspect the problem being electrical, it could be the same as above, it's just turning on, then off, then on etc.
Problem: Blows fuses every time it’s activated:
1. This one is usually easy to find. Open your switch panel and do a continuity check between power and ground. You’ll probably find a direct short. What seems to happen a lot is that people get confused with the WOT switch and the FPSS switch. These switches are NOT power and ground switches. They are a “connect / disconnect” switch. There should never be power on one side and ground on the other. Most of the schematics shown in the stickies show these switches breaking the ground side of the circuit. Like taking a wire, cutting into two pieces (disconnect) and then connecting the two together again (connect).
2. Another possibility is that you have too many devices (heater, solenoids) running off one fuse. Heaters are 8 or more AMPS by themselves. If you have a 200 watt heater, it’s drawing 17 amps. (p=e*i).
3. Lastly, you may have the switch wired incorrectly. Check to see that COM (usually middle but not always) is NOT connected to power OR ground. The COM terminal should go to the device you’re controlling, ie: relay, heater (or heater relay if used) etc.
Problem: My switches are getting HOT!!!
1. You’re drawing too much power through the switch. Put a relay on the line. See relay operation attachment below. Switches have a rating, usually 5-15 amps.
2. Get a switch with an LED in it instead of a light bulb. Cheap switches have light bulbs in them and they get hot.
When performing diagnostics on your system, a 12v light probe is extremely handy here because you can see the light from inside the car. This may show a 12v connection but it WILL NOT tell you that the wire is sufficient for the current you’re trying to put through it. Think of it like a river.. the “voltage” is like the river’s width/depth. It’s the “amount” of water. The current is the amount of “flow”. If you restrict the flow, you just won’t get all the water from one side to the other. (no worky)
Last edited by dlove; 09-15-2008 at 02:41 PM.
01-15-2008, 04:02 PM
#7
Spark Plug Info
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...-pictures.html
**Note: Heat ranges are determined by NGK standards. Not all plug manufacturers follow the same guidelines.
***Note: List is intended for reference only. Please consult with head mfg. and ignition mfg. for proper gap.
Taper Seat - .708 - .75" reach 14mm thread dia. - 5/8 hex
Fitment - LSx & LTx w/taper seat plugs
Thread – 14mm
Reach - .708”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat - Taper
Stock Heat Range: 5
Gap: .060
Plug: NGK TR55 (stock number 3951); NGK TR55IX (stock number 7164); Autolite 764; Denso IT-16 (stock number 5325)
Nitrous (1 step colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 6
Gap: .035 - .038
Plug: NGK 3177 BR6EF
Nitrous (2 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 7
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK 3346 BR7EF; Brisk 51 GR14S
Nitrous (3 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK 1049 B8EFS; Autolite AR474; Brisk 84 GR12S
Nitrous (4 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 9
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK 1085 B9EFS; Autolite AR473; Champion 286 S61C
Nitrous (5 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 10
Gap: Consult
Plug: Autolite AR472; Champion 683 S59C
Nitrous (6 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 11
Gap: Consult
Plug: Champion 681 S55C
Gasket Seat - .708 - .75" reach - 14mm thread dia. - 5/8 hex
Fitment - LSx & LTx w/ gasket seat plugs
Thread – 14mm
Reach – 3/4”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat – Gasket
Stock – MFG Recommendations: approx under 9:1 compression
Heat Range: 4
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR4 (stock number 5155); NGK BKR5EIX (stock number 6341); Autolite 3926; Champion RC12YC (stock number 71)
MFG Recommendations: approx 10.5:1 compression
Heat Range: 5
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR5 (stock number 7373); Autolite AR3924 (Racing Plug); Autolite 3924; Champion RC9YC (stock number 2075); Denso K20PR-U (stock number 3145); Denso IK20 (stock number 5304)
MFG Recommendations: approx 11:1 compression
Heat Range: 8 (3 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK 4554 R5671A-8; Autolite AR3934; Champion 298 C63CX; Brisk D12
MFG Recommendations: approx 12:1 compression
Heat Range: 9 (4 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK 5238 R5671A-9; Autolite AR3933; Champion 785 C61C
MFG Recommendations: approx 14:1 compression
Heat Range: 10 (5 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK 5820 R5671A-10; Autolite AR3932; Champion 296 C59CX
Heat Range: 11 (6 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK 6596 R5671A-11; Autolite 3931; Champion 294 C55CX
**NOTE: Use chart for static compression and adjust heat range for nitrous use accordingly.
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...-pictures.html
**Note: Heat ranges are determined by NGK standards. Not all plug manufacturers follow the same guidelines.
***Note: List is intended for reference only. Please consult with head mfg. and ignition mfg. for proper gap.
Taper Seat - .708 - .75" reach 14mm thread dia. - 5/8 hex
Fitment - LSx & LTx w/taper seat plugs
Thread – 14mm
Reach - .708”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat - Taper
Stock Heat Range: 5
Gap: .060
Plug: NGK TR55 (stock number 3951); NGK TR55IX (stock number 7164); Autolite 764; Denso IT-16 (stock number 5325)
Nitrous (1 step colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 6
Gap: .035 - .038
Plug: NGK 3177 BR6EF
Nitrous (2 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 7
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK 3346 BR7EF; Brisk 51 GR14S
Nitrous (3 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 8
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK 1049 B8EFS; Autolite AR474; Brisk 84 GR12S
Nitrous (4 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 9
Gap: Consult
Plug: NGK 1085 B9EFS; Autolite AR473; Champion 286 S61C
Nitrous (5 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 10
Gap: Consult
Plug: Autolite AR472; Champion 683 S59C
Nitrous (6 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Heat Range: 11
Gap: Consult
Plug: Champion 681 S55C
Gasket Seat - .708 - .75" reach - 14mm thread dia. - 5/8 hex
Fitment - LSx & LTx w/ gasket seat plugs
Thread – 14mm
Reach – 3/4”
Socket – 5/8 hex
Seat – Gasket
Stock – MFG Recommendations: approx under 9:1 compression
Heat Range: 4
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR4 (stock number 5155); NGK BKR5EIX (stock number 6341); Autolite 3926; Champion RC12YC (stock number 71)
MFG Recommendations: approx 10.5:1 compression
Heat Range: 5
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK FR5 (stock number 7373); Autolite AR3924 (Racing Plug); Autolite 3924; Champion RC9YC (stock number 2075); Denso K20PR-U (stock number 3145); Denso IK20 (stock number 5304)
MFG Recommendations: approx 11:1 compression
Heat Range: 8 (3 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK 4554 R5671A-8; Autolite AR3934; Champion 298 C63CX; Brisk D12
MFG Recommendations: approx 12:1 compression
Heat Range: 9 (4 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK 5238 R5671A-9; Autolite AR3933; Champion 785 C61C
MFG Recommendations: approx 14:1 compression
Heat Range: 10 (5 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK 5820 R5671A-10; Autolite AR3932; Champion 296 C59CX
Heat Range: 11 (6 steps colder w/NON-projected tip)
Gap: Consult ignition mfg.
Plug: NGK 6596 R5671A-11; Autolite 3931; Champion 294 C55CX
**NOTE: Use chart for static compression and adjust heat range for nitrous use accordingly.
Last edited by shortdog; 03-03-2015 at 04:46 PM. Reason: Plug update
Trending Topics
01-15-2008, 04:04 PM
#8
JUST BECAUSE ITS THE CHEAPEST DOES NOT MEAN ITS THE BEST OR JUST AS GOOD AS THE REST!!!
CHOOSING THE RIGHT PRODUCT AT THE RIGHT PRICE
In this tech article you will be given the knowledge to choose a nitrous system that best fits your needs and budget with out having to ask biased people or sales pitch throwing salesmen.
(Part one).
Over Head
First lets discuss some things that dictate what price a company has to sell there products for. Overhead is something every company has. Different companies have different levels of over head. For instance a home base single employee would have much less overhead than a shop based company with many employees. Below are just a few expenses a business may have.
1. Rent or Building -Expenses such as electricity, water, phone, etc.
2. Pay Roll- Sales, shipping, technical, accounting, marketing, employee’s
3. Marketing- Web forum sponsorship, magazine articles, goggle searches, catalogs, web development, web maintence , price guides, show expense, etc.
4. Product Development- New products brought to the market cost a lot of money when researching and developing from scratch.
5. Stock- To keep products in stock requires a great deal of cash flow to be tied up.
All the things above play a role in the quality of customer service you will receive from a company. You are investing into the company buy buying there products.
For Example.
Overhead Expenses.
Most companies that are established and based out of an actual building with employees are normally concentrating on making sure they are there in the future.
By investing into a established company odds are better that they will be there in the future when you may need to warranty a defective item or maybe just buy a part to match what you have. A established company is more than likely willing to go the extra mile to insure there customer is taken care of when the responsibility lies in there court do to being able to afford the expense.
Pay Roll
Have you ever been on the dyno or maybe getting ready to go the track and had some technical difficulties you needed help with? Then called the company you bought the product from only to find there was no answer or you had to leave a message with the hopes they call back in time. Or maybe there was no one there technical enough to give you the right answer. If so this one will make since to you. In order to have employees in house to take care of your customers it cost money. The more knowledgeable the employees are and the amount of employees the larger the company over head is. Companies that offer full time technical assistance will carry a larger expense than a company that does not they offer better customer support!! Having enough employees in order to run the business is a must when concentrating on customer service. While employees are taking tech calls sales, shipping, marketing, accounting etc still carries on.
Marketing.
Any company that is concentrating on the future survival has to invest into marketing. Reaching new customers is a must. With out marketing you would not reach new customers there for the companies sales would die off and the company would go out of business.
Product Development.
Companies that offer product development spend a lot of capital researching and developing new products. This is a large expense for a company. However it brings newer better products to market for your enjoyment. (Guys don’t mix this one up with companies that simply copy someone else’s ideas or designs. They don’t have near the expenses and they normally end up hurting the market making it hard for the companies they copy from to keep bringing newer and better products to market for you!)
Stock
Stocking products plays a huge roll in customer service as well. Have you ever needed a part and the company you did business with never seems to have what you needed when you needed it worse. The reason why is that a company has to tie up large amounts of capital in stocking products. In order to stay in business they have to have a profit return on there investment.(This is what makes the company be able to offer the customer in stock products, customer support, cover over head expenses, new products, product development, etc)
(Part Two)
Ok I am sure we all have the picture now on what kind of overhead expenses a company has. Now let’s talk about the product!
There are other items that determine a products cost other than overhead and advertisement expenses. While shopping for a new nitrous system I suggest checking these things before investing your hard earned money!
They are.
1. Product quality.
2. Product packaging.
3. Completeness of the product.
4. Instructions.
5. Warranty
6. Tech support
All of the items below raise the retail cost of the product.
Product Quality.
Better made parts cost a company more money. Plain and simple. Quality can be determained by many different factors. Mostly everything in this tech article will reflect the over all quality of a product.
Product Packaging.
Packaging is an investment to make sure the customer gets there product in one piece with no damages to the product. If a company vacuum seals a product to a back board and then packages it in a box with packing materials the odds are greater that the products will make it to the customer with no damages over a company that just simply puts items in a box. The better the packaging the higher the cost.
Completeness Of The Product.
This area can cover many areas. If the product is missing small pieces to work on your application odds are what started of cheap will add up costing more. (This will make more since in part three of this tech article.)
Instructions.
In order to install your product you will need detailed instructions. Putting together instructions require many man hours. It also requires printing cost. The better the instructions are the higher the cost.
Warranty.
Different companies have different warranty programs. Some companies offer no warranty. Offering a warranty of some kind is a companies commitment to there customers for supporting them and using there products. Offering a warranty cost a company the employee expense and product expense.
Tech Support.
Odds are you will need this at some time. Make sure you can get tech support on your product when you need it most. Tech support is something not every company can offer. Finding knowledgeable employees to sit in front of a phone to tie up large amounts of time cost a company a great deal of payroll and phone expense.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT PRODUCT AT THE RIGHT PRICE
In this tech article you will be given the knowledge to choose a nitrous system that best fits your needs and budget with out having to ask biased people or sales pitch throwing salesmen.
(Part one).
Over Head
First lets discuss some things that dictate what price a company has to sell there products for. Overhead is something every company has. Different companies have different levels of over head. For instance a home base single employee would have much less overhead than a shop based company with many employees. Below are just a few expenses a business may have.
1. Rent or Building -Expenses such as electricity, water, phone, etc.
2. Pay Roll- Sales, shipping, technical, accounting, marketing, employee’s
3. Marketing- Web forum sponsorship, magazine articles, goggle searches, catalogs, web development, web maintence , price guides, show expense, etc.
4. Product Development- New products brought to the market cost a lot of money when researching and developing from scratch.
5. Stock- To keep products in stock requires a great deal of cash flow to be tied up.
All the things above play a role in the quality of customer service you will receive from a company. You are investing into the company buy buying there products.
For Example.
Overhead Expenses.
Most companies that are established and based out of an actual building with employees are normally concentrating on making sure they are there in the future.
By investing into a established company odds are better that they will be there in the future when you may need to warranty a defective item or maybe just buy a part to match what you have. A established company is more than likely willing to go the extra mile to insure there customer is taken care of when the responsibility lies in there court do to being able to afford the expense.
Pay Roll
Have you ever been on the dyno or maybe getting ready to go the track and had some technical difficulties you needed help with? Then called the company you bought the product from only to find there was no answer or you had to leave a message with the hopes they call back in time. Or maybe there was no one there technical enough to give you the right answer. If so this one will make since to you. In order to have employees in house to take care of your customers it cost money. The more knowledgeable the employees are and the amount of employees the larger the company over head is. Companies that offer full time technical assistance will carry a larger expense than a company that does not they offer better customer support!! Having enough employees in order to run the business is a must when concentrating on customer service. While employees are taking tech calls sales, shipping, marketing, accounting etc still carries on.
Marketing.
Any company that is concentrating on the future survival has to invest into marketing. Reaching new customers is a must. With out marketing you would not reach new customers there for the companies sales would die off and the company would go out of business.
Product Development.
Companies that offer product development spend a lot of capital researching and developing new products. This is a large expense for a company. However it brings newer better products to market for your enjoyment. (Guys don’t mix this one up with companies that simply copy someone else’s ideas or designs. They don’t have near the expenses and they normally end up hurting the market making it hard for the companies they copy from to keep bringing newer and better products to market for you!)
Stock
Stocking products plays a huge roll in customer service as well. Have you ever needed a part and the company you did business with never seems to have what you needed when you needed it worse. The reason why is that a company has to tie up large amounts of capital in stocking products. In order to stay in business they have to have a profit return on there investment.(This is what makes the company be able to offer the customer in stock products, customer support, cover over head expenses, new products, product development, etc)
(Part Two)
Ok I am sure we all have the picture now on what kind of overhead expenses a company has. Now let’s talk about the product!
There are other items that determine a products cost other than overhead and advertisement expenses. While shopping for a new nitrous system I suggest checking these things before investing your hard earned money!
They are.
1. Product quality.
2. Product packaging.
3. Completeness of the product.
4. Instructions.
5. Warranty
6. Tech support
All of the items below raise the retail cost of the product.
Product Quality.
Better made parts cost a company more money. Plain and simple. Quality can be determained by many different factors. Mostly everything in this tech article will reflect the over all quality of a product.
Product Packaging.
Packaging is an investment to make sure the customer gets there product in one piece with no damages to the product. If a company vacuum seals a product to a back board and then packages it in a box with packing materials the odds are greater that the products will make it to the customer with no damages over a company that just simply puts items in a box. The better the packaging the higher the cost.
Completeness Of The Product.
This area can cover many areas. If the product is missing small pieces to work on your application odds are what started of cheap will add up costing more. (This will make more since in part three of this tech article.)
Instructions.
In order to install your product you will need detailed instructions. Putting together instructions require many man hours. It also requires printing cost. The better the instructions are the higher the cost.
Warranty.
Different companies have different warranty programs. Some companies offer no warranty. Offering a warranty of some kind is a companies commitment to there customers for supporting them and using there products. Offering a warranty cost a company the employee expense and product expense.
Tech Support.
Odds are you will need this at some time. Make sure you can get tech support on your product when you need it most. Tech support is something not every company can offer. Finding knowledgeable employees to sit in front of a phone to tie up large amounts of time cost a company a great deal of payroll and phone expense.
Last edited by dlove; 09-15-2008 at 02:42 PM.
01-15-2008, 04:11 PM
#9
(Part Three)
Ok now on to choosing your nitrous system.
THINGS TO LOOK FOR WHEN COMPARING NITROUS SYSTEMS!
This is why cheaper is not better!!!!
We will break this down part by part.
1. Nitrous Bottle- What size bottle does the system come with, 5lb, 10lb, 15lb etc. Most systems come standard with a 10lb bottle. Is the bottle painted or powder coated? Paint will scratch and become dingy faster. Powder coat will with stand more abuse.
2. Bottle Valve- What doe’s the bottle valve support flow wise? Internal orifice size and the amount of turns will dictate how much the valve will flow. What type of turn **** does the valve have? Does the turn **** offer any valve stem support in the event you were to knock over the bottle? Does the valve offer accessory ports for a gauge, heater transducer, or nitrogen push system. Does the valve have a 326 or 660 style connection? A 326 connection is a two piece bottle nut and nipple that seals by compression. The 660 style is a one piece bottle nut that seals with a gasket. With a 660 style what ever position the nut stops in you are stuck with. With a 326 style you can dictate the position you stop the nut in. This is great when using a manifold and gauge attached to the bottle nipple. What is the orifice size of the pick up tube? Will it support enough flow to match the valve?
3. Bottle Brackets-What are the bottle brackets made of. Do they offer a quick release style removal that does not require tools? Is the bracket well made to with stand abuse and hold the bottle in the vent of a car crash? Are the bottle brackets big and bulky or a compact design. Are they ugly?
4. Main Feed Line- Is the main feed line a 4an hose or 6an hose. Is the main feed line stainless braided or is it a triple insulated race hose? How long is the main feed line? Is the main feed line long enough to mount your bottle where you need it and reach the solenoids?
5. Solenoids- This is the heart of your system. Choose wisely. How much will the solenoids flow? Will you have to upgrade in the future? What is the orifice size and coil strength of the solenoid? Small body solenoids that support higher flowing hp levels over 150 hp generally are not as reliable as larger body solenoids that have larger coil strength. What is the orifice port design? Does it offer a purge port so that you can purge the nitrous clear up into the solenoid? How many turns’ doe’s the nitrous have to take before exiting the nitrous solenoid? The orifice size, coil strength, and orifice flow path will dictate how much a solenoid flows and at what pressure it will open at. Will the solenoid with stand abuse from a progressive controller? What material is used on the fuel and nitrous pistons? Different materials will withstand different amounts of abuse. What material is the solenoid base made from? Stainless or aluminum? Stainless is stronger. Aluminum releases heat faster and weighs less. Are the solenoid cans metal or carbon fiber? The metal cans help the magnetic of the coil strength. The carbon fiber weighs less and offers a different style look.
6. Feed Hoses From Solenoids To Nozzle Or Plate- How long are the hoses? Two foot is standard. Anything longer creates a delay in response and possibly a lean spike. Anything shorter gives you a limited amount of areas to mount your solenoids. Are the feed hoses 3an or 4an? On a 3an hose the nitrous will max flow around 175hp. 4 an will more than likely flow more than you will ever need.
7. Nozzle Or Plate Design- What material is the plate or nozzle made from? What is the machining quality? Machining quality will not only dictate how nice the part looks but it will dictate strength flow and atomization as well. How well does the discharge atomize? How much will it flow? How does it seal when installed?
8. Jetting- What HP levels come with the system? You may need to buy jets for different hp levels.
9. Electrical- Does the system come with all the electrical you need? Harness and relay, activation switch, wide open throttle switch, fuse, fuse holder, wire, wiring terminals, etc. What is the quality of these items? Will they with stand time?
10. Hardware- Does the system come with all the hardware to mount everything? Solenoid brackets, nuts, bolts, plugs, etc. What is the quality of the hardware? Will it rust over time? Does the solenoid bracket or brackets make you bolt the solenoids together or can you separate them?
11. Fittings- What are fittings made from? Brass, nickel plated brass, Raw aluminum, anodized aluminum or stainless? Raw brass will oxidize over time. Plated brass will not. Anodized aluminum fittings that are sealed will not fade or oxidize. Raw aluminum will oxidize over time. Stainless will with stand the test of time longer than any other fitting. However screwing a stainless fitting into a stainless solenoid will gald the threads. Anodized aluminum and nickel plated brass generally give a cleaner install and are over all better with a nitrous system. Are the fittings color coated with the rest of the system?
12. Accessories- Does the system come with any accessories? Such as gauges, tps activation switch, blow off valve, blow down tube, fuel pressure safety switch,etc. If it does it will raise the over all cost of the base system. However that is less accessories you have to purchase seperate
When choosing a system for your application I suggest comparing these items before ever looking at the price. This way your mind focusing on the price does not fool you into cheating yourself out of getting the best product for your money… Remember Cheaper is not better!! Ask your self if the system is something you can grow with? After all why spend more replacing cheaply made parts or upgrading to higher flowing more reliable parts in the future.
Do It Right The First Time And Save Money!!!
Thanks for taking time to read this.
Ok now on to choosing your nitrous system.
THINGS TO LOOK FOR WHEN COMPARING NITROUS SYSTEMS!
This is why cheaper is not better!!!!
We will break this down part by part.
1. Nitrous Bottle- What size bottle does the system come with, 5lb, 10lb, 15lb etc. Most systems come standard with a 10lb bottle. Is the bottle painted or powder coated? Paint will scratch and become dingy faster. Powder coat will with stand more abuse.
2. Bottle Valve- What doe’s the bottle valve support flow wise? Internal orifice size and the amount of turns will dictate how much the valve will flow. What type of turn **** does the valve have? Does the turn **** offer any valve stem support in the event you were to knock over the bottle? Does the valve offer accessory ports for a gauge, heater transducer, or nitrogen push system. Does the valve have a 326 or 660 style connection? A 326 connection is a two piece bottle nut and nipple that seals by compression. The 660 style is a one piece bottle nut that seals with a gasket. With a 660 style what ever position the nut stops in you are stuck with. With a 326 style you can dictate the position you stop the nut in. This is great when using a manifold and gauge attached to the bottle nipple. What is the orifice size of the pick up tube? Will it support enough flow to match the valve?
3. Bottle Brackets-What are the bottle brackets made of. Do they offer a quick release style removal that does not require tools? Is the bracket well made to with stand abuse and hold the bottle in the vent of a car crash? Are the bottle brackets big and bulky or a compact design. Are they ugly?
4. Main Feed Line- Is the main feed line a 4an hose or 6an hose. Is the main feed line stainless braided or is it a triple insulated race hose? How long is the main feed line? Is the main feed line long enough to mount your bottle where you need it and reach the solenoids?
5. Solenoids- This is the heart of your system. Choose wisely. How much will the solenoids flow? Will you have to upgrade in the future? What is the orifice size and coil strength of the solenoid? Small body solenoids that support higher flowing hp levels over 150 hp generally are not as reliable as larger body solenoids that have larger coil strength. What is the orifice port design? Does it offer a purge port so that you can purge the nitrous clear up into the solenoid? How many turns’ doe’s the nitrous have to take before exiting the nitrous solenoid? The orifice size, coil strength, and orifice flow path will dictate how much a solenoid flows and at what pressure it will open at. Will the solenoid with stand abuse from a progressive controller? What material is used on the fuel and nitrous pistons? Different materials will withstand different amounts of abuse. What material is the solenoid base made from? Stainless or aluminum? Stainless is stronger. Aluminum releases heat faster and weighs less. Are the solenoid cans metal or carbon fiber? The metal cans help the magnetic of the coil strength. The carbon fiber weighs less and offers a different style look.
6. Feed Hoses From Solenoids To Nozzle Or Plate- How long are the hoses? Two foot is standard. Anything longer creates a delay in response and possibly a lean spike. Anything shorter gives you a limited amount of areas to mount your solenoids. Are the feed hoses 3an or 4an? On a 3an hose the nitrous will max flow around 175hp. 4 an will more than likely flow more than you will ever need.
7. Nozzle Or Plate Design- What material is the plate or nozzle made from? What is the machining quality? Machining quality will not only dictate how nice the part looks but it will dictate strength flow and atomization as well. How well does the discharge atomize? How much will it flow? How does it seal when installed?
8. Jetting- What HP levels come with the system? You may need to buy jets for different hp levels.
9. Electrical- Does the system come with all the electrical you need? Harness and relay, activation switch, wide open throttle switch, fuse, fuse holder, wire, wiring terminals, etc. What is the quality of these items? Will they with stand time?
10. Hardware- Does the system come with all the hardware to mount everything? Solenoid brackets, nuts, bolts, plugs, etc. What is the quality of the hardware? Will it rust over time? Does the solenoid bracket or brackets make you bolt the solenoids together or can you separate them?
11. Fittings- What are fittings made from? Brass, nickel plated brass, Raw aluminum, anodized aluminum or stainless? Raw brass will oxidize over time. Plated brass will not. Anodized aluminum fittings that are sealed will not fade or oxidize. Raw aluminum will oxidize over time. Stainless will with stand the test of time longer than any other fitting. However screwing a stainless fitting into a stainless solenoid will gald the threads. Anodized aluminum and nickel plated brass generally give a cleaner install and are over all better with a nitrous system. Are the fittings color coated with the rest of the system?
12. Accessories- Does the system come with any accessories? Such as gauges, tps activation switch, blow off valve, blow down tube, fuel pressure safety switch,etc. If it does it will raise the over all cost of the base system. However that is less accessories you have to purchase seperate
When choosing a system for your application I suggest comparing these items before ever looking at the price. This way your mind focusing on the price does not fool you into cheating yourself out of getting the best product for your money… Remember Cheaper is not better!! Ask your self if the system is something you can grow with? After all why spend more replacing cheaply made parts or upgrading to higher flowing more reliable parts in the future.
Do It Right The First Time And Save Money!!!
Thanks for taking time to read this.
Last edited by Robert56; 02-03-2008 at 01:38 PM. Reason: spelling
02-18-2010, 02:11 PM
#10
Good amount of info in here.
More info: https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...verything.html
Will continue to add good threads in here.
More info: https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...verything.html
Will continue to add good threads in here.
