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Part Three)
Ok now on to choosing your nitrous system.
THINGS TO LOOK FOR WHEN COMPARING NITROUS SYSTEMS!
This is why cheaper is not better!!!!
We will break this down part by part.
1.
Nitrous Bottle- What size bottle does the system come with, 5lb, 10lb, 15lb etc. Most systems come standard with a 10lb bottle. Is the bottle painted or powder coated? Paint will scratch and become dingy faster. Powder coat will with stand more abuse.
2.
Bottle Valve- What doe’s the bottle valve support flow wise? Internal orifice size and the amount of turns will dictate how much the valve will flow. What type of turn knob does the valve have? Does the turn knob offer any valve stem support in the event you were to knock over the bottle? Does the valve offer accessory ports for a gauge, heater transducer, or nitrogen push system. Does the valve have a 326 or 660 style connection? A 326 connection is a two piece bottle nut and nipple that seals by compression. The 660 style is a one piece bottle nut that seals with a gasket. With a 660 style what ever position the nut stops in you are stuck with. With a 326 style you can dictate the position you stop the nut in. This is great when using a manifold and gauge attached to the bottle nipple. What is the orifice size of the pick up tube? Will it support enough flow to match the valve?
3.
Bottle Brackets-What are the bottle brackets made of. Do they offer a quick release style removal that does not require tools? Is the bracket well made to with stand abuse and hold the bottle in the vent of a car crash? Are the bottle brackets big and bulky or a compact design. Are they ugly?
4.
Main Feed Line- Is the main feed line a 4an hose or 6an hose. Is the main feed line stainless braided or is it a triple insulated race hose? How long is the main feed line? Is the main feed line long enough to mount your bottle where you need it and reach the solenoids?
5.
Solenoids- This is the heart of your system. Choose wisely. How much will the solenoids flow? Will you have to upgrade in the future? What is the orifice size and coil strength of the solenoid? Small body solenoids that support higher flowing hp levels over 150 hp generally are not as reliable as larger body solenoids that have larger coil strength. What is the orifice port design? Does it offer a purge port so that you can purge the nitrous clear up into the solenoid? How many turns’ doe’s the nitrous have to take before exiting the nitrous solenoid? The orifice size, coil strength, and orifice flow path will dictate how much a solenoid flows and at what pressure it will open at. Will the solenoid with stand abuse from a progressive controller? What material is used on the fuel and nitrous pistons? Different materials will withstand different amounts of abuse. What material is the solenoid base made from? Stainless or aluminum? Stainless is stronger. Aluminum releases heat faster and weighs less. Are the solenoid cans metal or carbon fiber? The metal cans help the magnetic of the coil strength. The carbon fiber weighs less and offers a different style look.
6.
Feed Hoses From Solenoids To Nozzle Or Plate- How long are the hoses? Two foot is standard. Anything longer creates a delay in response and possibly a lean spike. Anything shorter gives you a limited amount of areas to mount your solenoids. Are the feed hoses 3an or 4an? On a 3an hose the nitrous will max flow around 175hp. 4 an will more than likely flow more than you will ever need.
7.
Nozzle Or Plate Design- What material is the plate or nozzle made from? What is the machining quality? Machining quality will not only dictate how nice the part looks but it will dictate strength flow and atomization as well. How well does the discharge atomize? How much will it flow? How does it seal when installed?
8.
Jetting- What HP levels come with the system? You may need to buy jets for different hp levels.
9.
Electrical- Does the system come with all the electrical you need? Harness and relay, activation switch, wide open throttle switch, fuse, fuse holder, wire, wiring terminals, etc. What is the quality of these items? Will they with stand time?
10.
Hardware- Does the system come with all the hardware to mount everything? Solenoid brackets, nuts, bolts, plugs, etc. What is the quality of the hardware? Will it rust over time? Does the solenoid bracket or brackets make you bolt the solenoids together or can you separate them?
11.
Fittings- What are fittings made from? Brass, nickel plated brass, Raw aluminum, anodized aluminum or stainless? Raw brass will oxidize over time. Plated brass will not. Anodized aluminum fittings that are sealed will not fade or oxidize. Raw aluminum will oxidize over time. Stainless will with stand the test of time longer than any other fitting. However screwing a stainless fitting into a stainless solenoid will gald the threads. Anodized aluminum and nickel plated brass generally give a cleaner install and are over all better with a nitrous system. Are the fittings color coated with the rest of the system?
12.
Accessories- Does the system come with any accessories? Such as gauges, tps activation switch, blow off valve, blow down tube, fuel pressure safety switch,etc. If it does it will raise the over all cost of the base system. However that is less accessories you have to purchase seperate
When choosing a system for your application I suggest comparing these items before ever looking at the price. This way your mind focusing on the price does not fool you into cheating yourself out of getting the best product for your money… Remember Cheaper is not better!! Ask your self if the system is something you can grow with? After all why spend more replacing cheaply made parts or upgrading to higher flowing more reliable parts in the future.
Do It Right The First Time And Save Money!!!
Thanks for taking time to read this.
